Sea views with absolutely everything
by Ashley Gibbins
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Four
hundred years ago what is now the Dungeon Bar of the Star Castle hotel,
on St Mary's, the Isles of Scilly, was considered the safest jail in
the country.
During
its time as a place of detention the 'hell hole' was the reluctant home
of political detainees, pirates and any number of other brigands and
blagards.
Sipping
a pint of Scuppered, the Island's brew, I talked to George and Winifred
who have been visiting Scilly, willingly and twice a year, every year
for 43 years.
Although
an extreme example, I admit, it is typical of the hold Scilly tends to
have on its visitors.
Arriving
for a four-day stay, and more used to fast paced city life, I thought I
would be easily done in two.
Two days later I was wishing I could be staying for 10. |
Because
I quickly slowed into second gear, warmed to the welcome of the islands
and became smitten by the beaches, that befit the Caribbean, and the 60
miles of protected paths and tracks.
It was a real pleasure being busy doing nothing - well relatively little.
And
that's undoubtedly the key to enjoying the Isles of Scilly and a
benchmark as to whether this is the place for you. |
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Five inhabited islands |
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Five inhabited islands - but with a total resident population of not
more than two thousand and over 1,600 of these living on St Mary's -
and any number of smaller uninhabited islands and rocky outcrops.
Days
spent bobbing on the small boats that ply the islands in order to
stroll down quiet country lanes (the main roads on these islands),
along deserted beaches overlooking crystal clear water or across
heather covered hills.
And always with those stunning sea view.
Spending longer than would have ever considered possible enjoying
morning coffee or afternoon tea in little cafes or enjoying another
pint of Scuppered with the locals in one of the 10 pubs.
Again with that inevitable sea view. |
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And
evenings spent lingering over dinners that have locally caught fish
high on the menu before taking a look of the moon shining on the bay
before retiring.
The
other prerequisite for a stay on Scilly is a wardrobe that combines
shorts and tee shirts with sturdy comfortable shoes and warm and wet
weather gear.
And
finally a willingness to embrace the changes in weather and temperature
that each day of your stay might bring.
If
the sun shines the Isles will be as glorious as any beach holiday but
if the winds blow and the rain arrives they turn to be a truly bracing
and dramatic experience.
Both will be memorable.
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A real star turn |
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Robert
Francis and son James have been running the Star Castle hotel since
2003 and have, in that time turned the Grade I listed building, into
one of the finest family run hotels anywhere.
This Star Castle was built as a lookout in 1593, on the orders of Queen
Elizabeth I, following the Spanish Armada of 1588 and when the islands
were fearing another Spanish invasion.
The Francis family have undertaken a major refurbishment of the main
building and added chalet accommodation for those looking for more
space and sea views.
The hotel's gardens provide the two restaurants with its fresh
vegetables and the catch of the day is just that as Robert balances his
time as hotelier with that of fishing boat captain.
In years to come, Robert’s vineyard - the islands first - will provide
his restaurant and others with the Scilly vintage.
www.star-castle.co.uk |
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Islands ahoy |
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Getting
from island to island on Scilly is by the boats that go from one to
another at scheduled times.
The
trip from one to another takes between 20 and 30 minutes and the views
are breathtaking.
There
are 15 or so passenger boats that work from St. Mary’s through the St.
Mary's Boatman's Association, which provides the main passenger service
between the islands, including circular trips to view the seals and
seabirds.
Trips vary according to the time of year and the weather.
In
addition, several smaller independent boats run a more personal and
individual service, such as Tom Fortey.
Everyone knows Tom (as everyone tends to know everyone else on Scilly).
Tom,
who came to Scilly from Gloucestershire 20 years ago (for a wedding)
and stayed, runs daily boat trips aboard the 31 foot Calypso for
parties of 12.
These
go to and around the islands with Tom taking trips to the out of the
way places, uninhabited islands.
When
asking fellow guests at my hotel where they were going they replied
“out with Tom”. When I asked where, I was told “wherever he wants to
take us because it's always good.”
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A twitchers paradise |
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Scilly is also a magnet for birdwatchers.
To begin with the blackbirds, thrushes and finches seem so much friendlier than on the mainland.
It is also the only place in England where Storm Petrels breed (nocturnally and underground).
October
becomes frantic when the fanatic twitchers arrive to exploit the
islands' status as the first landing spot for many migrant birds,
including extreme rarities from North America and Siberia. |
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The pilot gigs |
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Scilly
is the home of the World Pilot Gig Championships, which attracts over
100 gigs to the islands every first May bank holiday weekend.
Crews come from across the world to race the 36ft long wooden boats made of Cornish Elm.
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Let the train take the strain |
For
those looking to get to Penzance, for a flight or ferry to Scilly, the
Night Riviera Sleeper train, operated by First Great Western, is a
really quite exciting and romantic way to do it.
The
train travels overnight from London Paddington and gets into Penzance
early morning and with an easy transfer to the ferry or helicopter
terminals.
The Night Riviera Sleeper runs 6 nights a week (Sunday through to
Friday) with one train each way between London Paddington and Devon and
Cornwall.
First
Great Western's sister company First ScotRail operates sleepers from
Euston to Glasgow and further into Scotland.
The Night Riviera offers a standard level of accommodation throughout
all the berths with either single or twin occupancy. Interconnecting
doors are available for families.
www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk |
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The Isles of Scilly |
Scilly
or the Isles of Scilly (but not the Scillies or the Scilly Isles) are a
string of islands forming an archipelago some 28 miles off Lands End,
the south western tip of the UK's Cornish peninsula.
Designated
an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the isles are known for their
bird life, particularly Puffins and Storm Petrels and the number of
rare migrants that have ornithologists flocking to Scilly.
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While its Gulf Stream location makes for a temperate climate with frost
and snow rare it is also exposed the Atlantic winds, which can see
spectacular winter gales lashing the islands.
Scilly is also home to a shrew that bears its name and is found nowhere else.
Tourism
now accounts for 85 per cent of the island's income with visitors
attracted to the island environment, favourable summer climate, relaxed
culture and good transport links by sea and air to the UK mainland. |
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The islands |
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Scilly comprises five inhabited islands and 134 smaller islands, islets and rocky outcrops.
Of the largest islands :
St Mary's (pop 1,600)
St.
Mary's the largest of the Isles has, in the harbour dominated
Hugh Town, its main settlement, the one supermarket serving the Isles
and the main tourist information centre.
While
Hugh Town was sold to the islanders by the British crown in 1949, the
rest of the island belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall. Other settlements
on the island are Old Town, Porthloo, Holy Vale, Maypole, Rocky Hill
and Telegraph.
The
island became the home of British Prime Minister Harold Wilson and his
final resting place after his death in 1995.
St Mary's has the Isles main air and ferry port. |
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Tresco (180)
Tresco,
the second largest island, is an area of contrast with rugged granite
outcrops, heath land of the exposed north coast and mainly shell
beaches in the east and south.
The villages of New Grimsby and Old Grimsby are situated in the centre
of the island, where there is a shop and post office, an art gallery, a
pub, and a hotel. |
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The sub-tropical Tresco Abbey Gardens were created, in 1834, by
Augustus Smith around the remains of the 12th Century St Nicholas
Priory.
The gardens contain a unique collection of plants, many of which are
too tender for outdoor cultivation on the British mainland. Tresco
Abbey Gardens flourish in the warm Gulf Stream climate and are regarded
by botanists as one of the most interesting and varied botanical
experiments in the world.
St Martin's with White Island (140)
St
Martin's, the northernmost populated island, has three main settlements
- Higher Town, Middle Town and Lower Town - in addition to a number of
scattered farms and cottages. There is one hotel, St Martin's On The
Isle, and one pub.
Bryher (92)
The 327 acre Bryher is the smallest of the five inhabited islands. Off
the southern end of Bryher is the uninhabited island of Samson.
St Agnus and Gugh (70)
St Agnes, the southernmost populated island, joins the island of Gugh
by a tombolo, or sandbar, called the Gugh Bar, which is exposed only at
low tide. The two islands together have the smallest population of the
Scilly archipelago, with 73 residents recorded in the 2001 census
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Other interesting facts |
In a league of its own
The
Islands are home to the world’s smallest football league with the
Garrison Gunners and Woolpack Wanderers playing themselves in league
and cup competitions during the season
Walking on water
On
equinoxial tides with high barometric pressure it is possible to walk
between the islands of Tresco, Bryher, St. Mary’s, Samson and St.
Martin’s
The first radio transmission
On
equinoxial tides with high barometric pressure it is possible to walk
between the islands of Tresco, Bryher, St. Mary’s, Samson and St.
Martin’s
Marconi
transmitted the first wireless signal between the Coastguard Tower on
St. Mary’s Scilly and Porthcurno in Cornwall in 1895.
SOS
The
world’s first SOS message was transmitted in April 1910 from the SS
Minnehaha, which ran aground on Scilly rock after a transatlantic
voyage.
Rare ant
There are several sites of the Red Barbed Ant on Scilly, a native species on the brink of extinction.
The
Zoolological Society of London has taken 25 colonies from St. Martin’s
to a captive breeding programme, which will eventually be used to
re-introduce the species on the mainland.
Longest war
The Three Hundred and Thirty Five Years' War (1651–1986) between the Netherlands and the Isles of Scilly is the longest ever war and the one with the fewest casualties.
It extended by the lack of a peace treaty for 335 years, without a single shot being fired, until peace was
finally declared in 1986. |
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Getting to Scilly |
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By sea
The Scillonian III has daily sailings from Penzance, Cornwall to St Mary's.
The
trip provides a two and a half hour mini-cruise to Scilly taking in the
Cornish Coast taking in sites such as Minack theatre, Lamorna Cove,
Tater Dhu Lighthouse and Land's End.
www.scillonian.co.uk
By air
Fixed
wing flights to Scilly leave from Southampton, Bristol, Exeter, Newquay
and Land's End.
www.ios-travel.co.uk
The
20-minute helicopter service, operated by British International
Helicopters flies from Penzance to St. Mary's and Tresco.
www.islesofscillyhelicopter.com
By rail to Penzance
First
Great Western operates regular rail services from London Paddington
through Devon and Cornwall to Penzance including it's overnight Rivera
Sleeper service.
www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk |
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Staying on Scilly |
Most
visitors will stay on St Mary's, which has the highest concentration of
accommodation and amenities.
Of
the other inhabited islands, Tresco is run as a timeshare resort, and
Bryher and St Martin's each has a hotel.
There are also campsites, B&B's and self-catering available on the islands.
www.simplyscilly.co.uk/site/stay-on-scilly
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