Tucked between Kefalonia and mainland Greece, the mountainous island of Ithaca, mythical home of Homer's Odysseus, may be only a 40-minute boat ride from its more touristy neighbour, but after a three-hour flight from Britain, most tourists aren't up for an hour's car journey on vertiginous roads to reach the port. There, they are at the mercy of the Greek ferries that may or may not run to schedule, but if you are prepared to make the journey the rewards are enormous. 

"Keep Ithaka always in your mind. Arriving there is what you are destined for. But do not hurry the journey at all." This quote is from Constantine Cavafy's 1911 poem Ithaka, about our journey through life and our search for eternal calmness and satisfaction, but it can apply to the modern-day journey to Ithaca, too, for it is certainly not the easiest island to reach. 

And this is just how I like it. It's precisely because the journey is difficult and long, that Ithaca remains unspoilt and isn't swamped by tourists clutching copies of The Odyssey – unlike Kefalonia where Captain Corelli's Mandolin still seems to play a starring role in the lives of its many visitors. The beauty and charm of Ithaca reminds me of my first foray to the Greek islands many moons ago when, as a first-year student fresh from studying Classical Civilisation in a chilly Aberdeen, I spent an amazing summer island-hopping in the Aegean.

That was in the late 1970s when the islands were still undeveloped, eye-wateringly beautiful and largely devoid of the party-loving tourists that invade much of the region today. I fell in love with Greece and the Greek people, their history and way of life but it was only when I first travelled to Ithaca, six years ago with my family, that I knew I had, at last, found the perfect spot - a sleepy, pristine paradise rimmed by brilliant ultramarine waters without high-rise buildings, clubs and pubs. 

This year we fell foul of ferry scheduling (a suddenly bankrupt passenger line) and had to spend part of the night in Sami waiting for the early morning boat. At around 5.30am we finally drove into the ferry's cavernous belly along with a few tired-looking locals and, rather poignantly, a hearse with a small lace covered coffin – someone making their final journey home. Sailing out of Sami on that first ferry of the day, watching the sun rise behind a mountain is a magical experience. 

Armed with a Greek coffee and warm doughnuts to share, we headed upstairs to watch Kefalonia fade behind us and Ithaca rise up ahead, the sun bathing her rugged hills and lush green valleys in the pink early morning light. Arriving in the tiny port of Pisos Aetos on the island's west coast, we were shepherded quickly off the boat by coastguard officials, deftly negotiating the perilously steep hill leading from the harbour - I recommend hiring an automatic car for driving on Ithaca's challenging roads. 

Then we finally began the winding journey to Afales Bay on the very north of the island, our "home" for the next two weeks. 

Driving north at this early hour of the day on a coast road peppered with hairpin bends, you will almost certainly encounter goats – the island is full of them – lying on the still warm roads. They will move for you, their bells tinkling as they go, but be prepared for them to do it in their own sweet time – nothing moves fast on Ithaca. Passing through hamlets to the sound of cockerels crowing and donkeys braying, we began to relax into the rhythm of the island. I had read that Ithaca had a healthy disconnect with the rest of the world and it's certainly true that, although the local people appreciate the benefits that tourism brings, they don't want to be taken over by visitors – perhaps because their history is one long story of invasion. 

The Romans occupied the island in the 2nd century BC and it later became part of the Byzantine Empire. It was then occupied over the centuries variously by the French, the British and most recently, during WWII, by the Germans and Italians. The islanders built villages high up in the hills to keep themselves safe from marauding pirates and invaders, and today death-defying journeys up to the villages of Exoghi and Anoghi are rewarded with spectacular views, beautiful churches and very welcome cooling drinks from one of the small cafes. 

A devastating earthquake in 1953 reduced many of the island's buildings to ruins and the population shrank to around 3,000 when many of the islanders fled to Australia, South Africa and America. Some of the houses have been saved and renovated although many still lie in ruins. One to mention is Villa Kalos, near Stavros in the north of the island, now a sophisticated home and holiday rental, saved by enterprising South African photographers Gerda Genis and Robert Koene. Koene stumbled across the ruins a few years ago while out jogging one morning on holiday. Entranced by the setting and views, the couple bought the ruin and have turned it into a beautiful holiday home. (www.villakalos.com) 

Ithaca's capital Vathy curves majestically around a beautiful bay and is home to the island's banks, administrative offices, museum and the island's largest supermarket, the Carrefour. The square has a superb selection of coffee shops – our favourite is Nirito where you can sit under shady umbrellas and while away the time surrounded by coffee-drinking Greeks reading their newspapers and debating the day's news. Be sure to sample Greek specialities such as the delicious riganado – a local dish comprising toast drenched in olive oil and topped with tomatoes, olives, capers and onions. 

Wash it down with a frothy iced coffee or frappé and then, suitably fortified, go shopping. Vathy has some sophisticated, arty shops where you are sure to be tempted. My favourite is Homer & Co (homerandcompany.com) where you'll find an enchanting mix of local produce including organic olive oil, jams and preserves, sweet treats as well as paintings, books, clothes and jewellery all artfully displayed in a beautifully designed space. You can even have a coffee after you've finished browsing – but be warned you are unlikely to leave empty-handed! 

The capital of the north of the island is Stavros, which has everything you need for day-to-day living - including an ATM - and some excellent restaurants. Go late – after 9pm - to sample spit roast meats, a favourite with the islanders who come en famille. The adults eat while the children run around and play, enjoying the little park next to the restaurant with its bust of Odysseus and large model of the island. 

Frikes, on the north of the island, is another pretty beachside village with shops and restaurants. We like to have a drink at the harbour-side Dodoni café before dinner – watching the sun go down over the peaceful harbour. It is worth hiring a little motor boat to explore Ithaca's many hidden coves and beaches, which are inaccessible by road. Exploring the island on foot is also a pleasure - rugged mountains form the backdrop, and there are plenty of shepherds' tracks that wind through the olive trees in the surrounding hills. 

Explore the island's archaeological sites including Odysseus' palace at the School of Homer and Alalcomai both of which, the islanders say, prove that Odysseus had his palace here. And why wouldn't he? It is, after all, exquisite. The man himself sums it up so well in The Odyssey when he says, "I shall not see on earth a place more dear." I wouldn't argue with that.

The facts

• When to go
• Before you go
• How to get there
• What to speak
• What to spend (and tip)
• What to know

Useful links