By Nigel Duncan on Tuesday, 27 June 2017
Category: Europe

A trip along the Northumberland coastline

Berwick was once Scotland's wealthiest royal burgh and greatest seaport, now, it is England's most northerly town.

Many drive through on route to Edinburgh or Newcastle, however, you should stop.

The town had a strategic location during 300 years of warfare in the Middle Ages.

For us, it proved a strategic location to exploring the Northumberland area and coastline with white beaches, dunes covered in wildflowers and rare wildlife and some of the most beautiful stretches are looked after by the National Trust.

It's a fascinating mix of land and sea with stunning beaches and quaint, white-walled villages.

Images : www.visitnorthumberland.com


Berwick is a surprise.

The town had an ambiguous status at one time, neither truly Scottish or English giving rise to the legend that the Crimean War was declared in the name of 'Great Britain, Ireland and Berwick upon Tweed'.

Berwick was also omitted from the peace treaty leaving the town technically at war with Russia until 1966.

Going back further, the Tudors were so keen to hang onto Berwick that they spent vast sums on defences. Italian designed ramparts were commissioned and took 12 years to build at a cost in today's money of around £40m.

A good starting point

The walls remain and are a good starting point for a tour and the town's military past is underlined by Berwick Barracks, now a tourist attraction.

It is also obvious from many fine buildings that Berwick once prospered as a bustling centre of commerce transporting Tweed salmon, wool, leather, grain and other produce to London by sea.

Things have changed and to let signs are visible in the main street but don't let that put you off.

Parking beside the wall is difficult but there are other car parks which allow the traveller easy access to quirky shops as well as well as those owned by recognised High Street brands.

Painter L S Lowry was hooked on Berwick and visited regularly. He painted around the town and at nearby Spittal Promendade.

The promenade above the lengthy main beach remains popular for a brisk walk and the adjacent Little Beach is popular with anglers.

They can fish for brown trout free for six miles upstream. There are plenty of pubs, bars and restaurants but we popped into Lowry's at The Chandlery (01289 309327) on the quayside for a light lunch of bowl of warming and tasty tomato and basil soup and a superb chicken Panini with a pot of tea.

Good value, great staff and nice place.

www.visitberwick.com

Holy Island of Lindisfarne

A few miles south of Berwick is the gem called Lindsifarne which has a recorded history from the 6th century AD.

It was also an important centre of Celtic Christianity. It is three miles from east to west and 1.5 miles from north to south and is situated in an area of outstanding natural beauty and a National Nature Reserve.

Consult the tides as it becomes an island every six hours and every year people are stranded on the causeway because they did not take note. Tide tables are positioned at various places on the island which is well worth a visit but it does become really busy.

We popped into the First Class Food café and it is what is says and it has a remarkable menu.

Goswick Sands

This is eight miles south of Berwick and a few miles off the main A1 but the sands here are extensive and there was nobody else around for miles.

The beach was once used as a weapons range during the Second World War. Once again, check tide times but it is a vast stretch of sand and a wonderful walk.

Goswick Golf Club

We ate in the highly-rated Goswick Golf Club which has been used as a Regional qualifier for The Open and measures 6,803 yards. A weekday ticket costs £50 and it is £60 on a weekend.

It is set in stunning coastal scenery and the spacious bar serves good food. We munched into two massive burgers and chips and there is an extensive menu and prices are more than reasonable and the portions will satisfy any walkers who are welcome.

Bamburgh

Bamburgh was next on our list. The imposing Grade 1 listed castle once the Royal Seat of the Kings of Northumbria and is now owned by the Armstrong family, is open to the public to explore 14 public areas and dominates this village.

www.bamburghcastle.com

The Grace Darling Museum

Once again, it can get really busy but escape to the vast beach to get away from the crowd or visit the Grace Darling Museum (free entry), which celebrates the heroine who risked her life to rescue others from certain death during a terrible storm.

www.RNLI.org/GraceDarling

We ate in The Castle, wholesome fare in a spacious and atmospheric room with a good selection of ales, but there are other eating establishments and an excellent butcher just down the road (R Carter and Son at Front Street) who has been selling his home-made sausages here for 125 years.

Seahouses

Seahouses, which has a working fishing port, is a few miles along the coast and a total contrast to regal Bamburgh.

Kiss me quick hats are prominent in the shop displays and the smell of fish and chips is both tempting and annoying.

Try Trotters Family Bakers in the Main Street for some tasty treats.

The town is the starting point for boat tours to the Farne Islands for puffin and seal spotting and booking offices are at the harbour. You can also visit the Longstone Lighthouse (weather permitting) which guards the Farne Islands

www.farneislandtours.co.uk

www.farne-islands.com

www.trinityhouse.co.uk

Etal

Inland now to the picturesque village of Etal which once held a strategic position by a ford over the River Till. It was at one tile vulnerable to attack and a castle was built which still stands to repel Scottish raiders.

The union of the English and Scottish crowns in 1603 ended the castle's active role in history but it still has a prominent position in the village. Sadly, The Black Bull pub is closed but we heard that it will re-open after refurbishment.

Etal is also served by a tourist railway.

Alnwick

Alnwick has several notable attractions.

The origins of Alnwick Castle () date back to the Norman period and is the second largest inhabited castle in the UK. It has served as a military outpost, teaching college, a refuge for evacuees, a film set and family home.

Alnwick is home to one of the world's most contemporary gardens and steam trains have returned to the town with the Aln Valley Railway ().

Hardy, the well-known fishing tackle manufacturers, have a shop and museum in the town open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday.

www.alnwickcastle.com

www.alnwickgarden.com

www.alnvalleyrailway.co.uk

Badger Lodge

We stayed at Badger Lodge in a luxury, two-bedroom, self-catering lodge overlooking a lake near Beal.

It was extremely comfortable and relaxing. Minutes away was an Owners' Lounge where the food was superb and there was an extensive play park for kids.

Nearby was a nine-hole golf course, boating lake, tennis and activities for youngsters including an adventure playground and two swimming pools.

Licensed premises, three fast food outlets plus a Chinese restaurant were also on the award-winning site along with a spa and well-stocked mini-market.

www.haggerstonelodges.co.uk

Useful links

www.visitnorthumberland.com