Beijing, one of China's oldest capitals, is a vibrant metropolis that seamlessly blends ancient traditions with modern pursuits. This sprawling city offers an impressive array of attractions that should cater to every traveller's interests.

Delve deep into Beijing's cultural heritage with a journey into the historic hutongs. These charming, narrow alleyways are remnants of traditional courtyard dwellings, providing glimpses into the vibrant communal life of old Beijing.

Beijing had been the centre of traditional Chinese culture throughout the Ming and Qing dynasties, until the period of political and social upheaval that began in the mid-19th century led to a cultural decline in China. This was exacerbated by the violent Cultural Revolution of the mid-20^th century when many art forms were destroyed.

Since that time Chinese authorities have made a concerted effort to restore damaged treasures and to revive the work of traditional artists and scholars. The results of this effort are most prominent in Beijing and, accordingly, the capital has experienced a cultural renaissance and resumed its leading role in the country's cultural life. 

Beijing has a very fast and efficient subway system that provides a good way to avoid the frequent traffic jams. The city has about 25 subway lines in operation, including two airport express lines and two tram lines. The subway makes it easy to get around if you want to see the sights described here independently. 

The Temple of Heaven is a complex of imperial religious buildings situated in the south-eastern part of central Beijing. The temple complex was constructed from 1406 to 1420 during the reign of Zhu Di, the third emperor of the Ming dynasty, who was also responsible for the construction of the Forbidden City.

The complex was visited by the emperors of both the Ming and Qing dynasties for annual ceremonies of prayer to heaven for a good harvest. The Temple of Heaven was inscribed as a World Heritage site in 1998.

Site of celebration and tragedy

Tiananmen Square is named after the "Gate of Heavenly Peace" or Tiananmen Tower located to its north, which separates it from the Forbidden City. Tiananmen Square was the site of the deadly crackdown on protesters in 1989, known in the West as the Tiananmen Square Massacre.

The square itself is vast, measuring 440,000 square metres and capable of holding one million people. Originally built during the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644), Tiananmen Square was used for imperial celebrations and events such as the wedding of the emperor and the enthronement of a new emperor. The square contains the Monument to the People's Heroes, the Great Hall of the People, the National Museum of China, and the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong. 

From Tiananmen Square you can simply walk across to the Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum. With a long history of over 600 years, the Forbidden City, was the home of China's last 24 emperors during the Ming and Qing dynasties, from 1368 to 1912. It was called the Forbidden City because common people were forbidden to enter it. Today it contains numerous exquisite antiquities and cultural relics, with the Treasure Gallery and Clock and Watch Gallery among the most popular exhibitions.

A summer retreat

The Summer Palace is located 15 kilometres north-west from central Beijing and occupies an area of about 300 hectares. It features both grand historical palaces and peaceful natural scenery on the outskirts of the city. Also recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998, the Summer Palace is famed the world over as a symbol of traditional imperial architecture and garden design.

The Summer Palace dates from the Qing dynasty (1644-1912) but has a history of more than 800 years as an imperial garden that dates back to the 1150s. The garden served as a suburban escape for the emperors, a peaceful retreat in the countryside that was still within easy access of the capital. The Summer Palace became a public park in 1924. 

The palace grounds include Kunming Lake, with several piers from which you can take a boat ride around the lake. Different kinds of boat are available at specific piers. The traditional dragon boats are docked at the pier closest to a large marble boat. They don't always run, though, if there are strong winds or the weather is generally bad.

The palace grounds are huge and you need to allow at least two hours to see them properly. You don't need to go hungry or thirsty as there are lots of food and beverage vendors inside the park. 

 Wangfujing Street in downtown Beijing is a bustling commercial thoroughfare offering a heady mix of shops, boutiques and vibrant food markets, anchored by large upmarket shopping malls at each end of the pedestrian mall.

The street is a shopper's paradise, filled with shops selling paintings and traditional Chinese arts and crafts, trendy boutiques and well-known chain stores as well as restaurants serving everything from McDonald's to Peking Duck.

A highlight is Wangfujing Snack Street, located on the south side of the Haoyou buildings and the ultimate place for enjoying famous snacks from all over China. There are also many shops and booths in the street specialising in tourist souvenirs, folk crafts and so on. 

A hutong is a lane or alley formed by traditional courtyard compounds situated on both sides. The narrowest hutongs can be as little as 40 centimetres wide. The compounds that line the lanes and alleys are called siheyuan, meaning old buildings arranged on four sides around a courtyard, with the whole lot enclosed by a wall.

The hutongs reflect the culture of the common people, while the Forbidden City, Summer Palace, and the Temple of Heaven are symbols of imperial culture.

Originally formed in the Yuan dynasty (1271 - 1368), Hutongs saw their heyday during the Ming and Qing dynasties, when the number increased to more than 2,000. This had risen to over 3,000 by 1949, but with the passage of time and the inevitable demands for city development, the number of them has fallen dramatically.

In 2003 only 1,500 were left and now no more than 1,000 remain. A majority of the existing ones have been transformed into tourist attractions associated with street food, shopping, and bars, and they make for a most pleasant way to pass a couple of hours. You can rent a rickshaw or simply wander aimlessly through the labyrinth of hutongs, observing local life, discovering hidden gems like traditional tea houses or courtyard museums and indulging in delectable street food. 

Visitors should be aware that the internet is censored in mainland China and the majority of Western social media platforms including Facebook, Instagram and Twitter are blocked in Beijing. All Google services are similarly blocked by the system dubbed "The Great Firewall of China". The only way around it is to install a VPN, otherwise be prepared to forgo your usual internet indulgences.

Photos © Judy Barford

Next time: The Great Wall of China

Useful links

​Beijing Travel China: Attractions, Tours, Map, Weather, Tips (travelchinaguide.com)