Buenos Aires’ Complejo Tango

Even in the Land of Tango –– Buenos Aires –– there exists a hierarchy of shows. Some are geared to tourists, pairing showy acts with subpar meals. I recently visited Complejo Tango, in Buenos Aires' Balvanera barrio, and while the performance was showy (as it actually should be), the overall experience felt both fresh and venerable, and moreover, native to this city that eternally celebrates the art of tango.

Complejo is actually a tango house of sorts, complete with a seven-room hotel in a building that dates to 1895. The rooms with high ceilings are hung with heavy wooden shutters looking onto Belgrano Avenue. The decor is antique, with some early 1900s pieces. If you want to be transported back to tango's earliest days –– this is the place to stay, dine and enjoy the dance.

You can, in fact, even learn to tango at Complejo. The establishment holds free group dance lessons during late afternoons before the dinner show, which begins on most nights at 10 p.m. Dinner begins at 8:30 p.m. Tables wreath a 30-foot long stage, above which is a balcony where the musicians play. It's an intimate setting and there is no bad seat in the house.

Dinner and the show

The international menu is dashed with South American traditions and includes mala junta (pasta) stuffed with pumpkin and mozzarella, and balda para un loco: stuffed chicken with vegetables. There's also a fish and steak dish among the simplified offerings, as well as four desserts (I recommend the traditional homemade flan). The venue has a full bar.

Complejo rotates several themed shows. I jumped in on a timeline performance that detailed tango's historical styles, starting around 1900. Male dancers wore black suits piped in white, and women were outfitted in corseted dresses. There's plenty of stage play and theatrics among the performers, with men predictably chasing after the women dancers –– but true to form, the show began with two men dancing together, exactly mirroring tango's roots.

A troupe of ten dancers

The dancing –– which of course is the reason to visit Complejo Tango –– was excellent. The troupe of ten dancers rotates between shows, and is equally split between genders. I experienced three pairs of dancers, and among them Emmanuel Riquelme and Laura Molina were standouts, as well as Alejandro Segovia and Hebe Fernandez. Their intricate athleticism was mesmerizing.

Gaston Robles and Gissela Estigarribia rounded out the troupe –– in truth, all were accomplished and deserved more than a smallish stage in Balvanera.

Moving on from turn-of-the-century steps, the show also showcased mid-century tango style and fashion, as well as 1970s, and modern, current day steps and styles.

Complejo Tango's beginnings

Martin Pasmanter has managed the establishment for 13 years, taking over from his father, Roberto Pasmanter who launched Complejo, taking five years to clear out squatters from the 1800s corner building, and then another five to completely renovate the space.

Complejo Tango offers five pricings, which includes transportation from downtown hotels.

Just the show: $44
An appetizer or dessert, drinks, and the show: $64
An a la carte menu and the show: $100
A VIP dinner show with private transportation: $200

Complejo Tango
Av. Belgrano 2608, C.A.B.A. CP 1096 - Argentina