Bydgoszcz has seen a 21st Century transformation
With a heritage stretching back to the 13th Century, Bydgoszcz became a city dominated by the electrical machinery and chemical industries during Poland's 44-year post-war period as a Soviet bloc country.
This was followed by 15 years of post-communist economic decline with the city run-down, grey and known as Brzydgoszcz from brzydki the Polish for ugly.
When Poland joined the European Union, in 2004, Bydgoszcz was able to access initial EU funding to pump-prime what is a remarkable transformation.
The city authorities, private sector and community then took over the city's renaissance with layer on layer of enhancement projects, landscaping and events and celebrations.
As a result, Bydgoszcz today offers as rewarding a short European city break as one could hope to find, and one that will only get better.
https://www.visitbydgoszcz.pl/en/
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This is a no risk city-break destination
Travel journalists do 'the heavy lifting' when it comes to deciding on an unknown destination for a vacation or short break.
By Ashley Gibbins
It provides some guidance with seasoned eye, to enable others decide if they should visit - or not. Particularly when it comes to places that few others were likely to be aware of.
This was certainly the case with Bydgoszcz, a Polish city that I had never heard of, could not pinpoint it on a map of the county and, to be honest, was now sure how it is pronounced.
Having greatly enjoyed three trips to Polish cities in recent years, Ann and I were fairly confident we were going to enjoy our five-night break to Bydgoszcz.
We have found Polish people to be warm and welcoming and passionately proud of their being Polish.
There is also the country's fascinating history, excellent dining with fine wine a great beer.
The more we visit Poland, the more we appreciate all of these things. And (spoiler alert) our trip to Bydgoszcz was just tremendous, and not because our expectations were lower.
About this city
Bydgoszcz, which sits on the Brda and Vistula rivers along with the Bydgoszcz Canal and an international waterway, is pronounced Bid-gosh-ch (with the 'ch' as in cheese).
It is found in north-central Poland, some 150 miles from the German border, which is pertinent, as our guide Mikołaj Buzała explained in simple terms.
"Over the centuries, the city has been Polish, then German, then Polish again, then German once more and now Polish, forever I hope."
This is because its location on the two rivers made it a much-contested border territory.
The first mention of Bydgoszcz was back in 1238, but it was during the 15th and 16th Centuries that the city saw its heyday as one of Poland's wealthiest cities.
In 1772 Bydgoszcz came under Prussian and then German control and was renamed Bromberg, which it remained until 1920 when, following World War One, when the city was returned to Poland and reclaimed its original name.
In less than 20 years, Poland was invaded by Nazi Germany becoming Bromberg again from 1939 to 1945.
With the city liberated by the Red Army 1945 the city became Bydgoszcz one last time though, being part of Poland, it had to endure 44 years of suppression within the Soviet Bloc.
The ugly city!
After the fall of communism in the 1990s, Bydgoszcz spiralled into decline.
The city's once-booming manufacturing base crumbled leaving a decaying urban landscape of abandoned factories; its grand Art Nouveau architecture was sorely neglected and there was little or no city centre investment.
So why would want to visit this city?
The answer is a remarkable transition that started in 2004, when Poland joined the EU.
This saw the securing of substantial EU funding to pump-prime the city's renaissance and which since between continued at pace by the city authorities.
A stunning transition
The transition, in just 20 years, is as remarkable as it is stunning.
Bydgoszcz as a traveller destination has arrived and greatly rewards a visit, and the enhancement to the urban landscape continues unabated.
The rivers and canals
The rivers and canals, which were once filthy industrial waterways, are now clean and alluring and the old town is as vibrant and full of character as any of its European competitors.
Mill Island, adjoining the old town, which was once derelict and very much a no-go area, has been transformed into a hub for culture and recreation.
A bustling city centre
The bustling Bydgoszcz city centre and its surrounding districts are restored and a landscaped parks and gardens are dotted throughout.
City of music
Bydgoszcz is also a UNESCO designated City of Music in recognition of its music heritage with many opportunities to enjoy live music.
Add to this the excellent 'wining and dining' on offer, and fine day trips out of the city, and Bydgoszcz ticks every box when it comes to a short city break.
There could be the temptation to write that Bydgoszcz is an up-and-coming destination, but this would not be correct.
Bydgoszcz has already arrived and is only going to get better.
Dining in Bydgoszcz a real pleasure
By Ann Mealor
On previous visits to Poland, I have always found the restaurants exceeding my expectations and eating out a pleasure.
I'm pleased to say that Bydgoszcz was no exception.
Menus offered a choice of meat, fish, vegetarian and vegan dishes, portions were generous and the food always fresh, served piping hot, well-presented and good value for money.
The bistros, cafes and brasseries were all attractive and well furnished.
Some had open kitchens so the chefs could be seen at work, and many offered the option to dine al-fresco, which is always my preferred choice when the weather allows.
The Polish wine is also excellent.
Here those that we were able to enjoy and would recommend.
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A place to stay
Sowa Apartments make for a great city base
By Ann Mealor
Situated in the heart of Bydgoszcz, Sowa Apartments make an ideal base for exploring the city.
The old and new towns with their excellent restaurants, cafes and bars are just a leisurely stroll away as is the pretty Brda
River and other cultural and historic sites.
It is quiet, modern, spacious and nicely furnished with large windows overlooking the city.
https://www.visitbydgoszcz.pl/en/
Download AllWays leading to Bydgoszcz to read all Ann's restaurant reviews.
More information :
https://www.visitbydgoszcz.pl/en/
See also :
AllWays leading to Warsaw : https://www.allwaystraveller.com/continents/europe/warsaw-is-soaring-upwards-and-onwards
AllWays leading to Wrocław : https://www.allwaystraveller.com/allways-features/wroclaw-a-vibrant-colourful-city-rich-in-history-and-heritage
AllWays leading to Szczecin : https://www.allwaystraveller.com/continents/europe/warsaw-is-soaring-upwards-and-onwards
AllWays leading to Upper Silesia : https://www.allwaystraveller.com/allways-features/upper-silesia-a-hidden-gem-of-a-polish-region
AllWays leading to Lower Silesia : https://www.allwaystraveller.com/allways-features/lower-silesia-a-polish-region-just-waiting-to-be-discovered
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