In my continuing review of all that Youghal, Co. Cork in the Republic of Ireland has to offer, I review Clancy's Bar & Restaurant
New Things in Old Places
As the years go by, and I return to the seaside town of Youghal to visit old friends, I have seen a host of restaurants come and go. Indeed, I've seen several iterations of a pub-cum-restaurant-cum-nightclub that has occupied a venerable location just steps from Youghal's 19th century Promenade and sandy beaches. None have even approached the charm, cuisine, and yes, elegance as has Clancy's Bar & Restaurant – a world class gastro pub whose management and chef have made it a must-visit venue in Ireland's Ancient East.
Thematic, Rustic Charm and Modern Convenience
In days long past, Irish singing legend Christy Moore penned a song about Clancy's:
I'll tell you a story that happened to me.
One day as I went down to Youghal by the sea.
The sun it was high and the day it was warm.
Says I an auld pint wouldn't do me no harm.
The railway that used to discharge passengers outside of Clancy's doors are now long gone. The platform and station across from Clancy's has fallen into ruin, and the rails have been removed for re-use in Galway.
Railwaymen no longer leave their well-worn leather gloves on the bar while they down a half-pint of Murphy's Stout before driving the locomotive back to Cork city (oh, how times have changed). The biddies, with their lace collars, long dresses and black shoes sipping tea at a corner table waiting for the next train are now distant memories. However, Clancy's has retained in its newly refurbished décor some locomotive memories of old, in pictures, artifacts and period signage.
Clancy's manages to use thematic décor to great effect without invoking the overwhelming and kitschy experience of the Hard Rock Café or TGI Fridays whose interior is more akin to an amusement park than bar and restaurant. Clancy's is to be commended on combing nostalgia and modern convenience to create a relaxing, pleasing and appealing venue. As the night progressed, it became clear Clancy's is notable not for its similarities to other restaurants, but for its many differences.
The Best of Both Worlds
One of the differences that sets Clancy's apart is how it delivers customer service. My party was immediately greeted and offered seating in the pub area or dining room. We reviewed the 'pub grub' menu and found it offered a surprising number of choices, including the usual goujons and chips, burgers and more. A quick glance around showed others' meals to have plentiful portions, nice aroma and nice presentation. As tempting as the bar menu seemed, we opted for a more substantial meal experience and took to the dining room.
The dining room offered tables beside large windows overlooking the old railway station, the Promenade and Celtic Sea beyond. We were fortunate enough to get a table on the balcony with a sweeping vista. While my host went off to greet some friends he spied sitting on the large deck on the west side of the building (that also had great views of the sea and offered the full bar menu), I found myself taking in the fresh salt air and musing on what a fine location Clancy's offers.
Service Reigns Supreme
One of the owners, Padraig, greeted us and offered us menus (a very nice touch). Giving us the perfect amount of time to consider the menu, a waitress appeared and took our order, making several helpful recommendations beyond simply reciting the day's specials. Her knowledge of the top shelf spirits and extensive beers on offer demonstrated Clancy's was not simply an eatery, but took its role as a gastro pub seriously (other restaurants could take lessons in staff training from Clancy's).
An age old complaint of mine is how you can find an Irish pub anywhere in the world (I recently visited one in Schengen, China and another in Podgorica, Montenegro). Hard as I have tried, I have never found an Irish restaurant outside of the Emerald Island. One of the reasons may be the historical lack of distinctiveness of Irish food (something that is rapidly changing with the food revolution issuing from County Cork). Another is the generally poor service in Irish restaurants (the nation is known for its bartenders – not its waiters). Clancy's quickly proved the exception to the rule. Service at Clancy's is a forte.
The Fare
Our waitress suggested seafood chowder for starters. I agreed, half-mumbling I much preferred the tomato base seafood chowder available in New England. To my chagrin I was informed the chef offered both tomato and cream based chowders. I reminded myself that what struck me about Clancy's was its brilliance found in it distinguishing itself from other gastro pubs, not only in service, but in its menu. Any restaurant who cares to offer such alternatives in its starter menu clearly understands food and holds itself capable of versatility.
Our seafood chowder was exquisite. While many restaurants are too often satisfied with waiving some shellfish and cod in the general direction of some hot broth and calling it chowder, Clancy's chowder abounded with a variety of fresh and tasty seafood. Avoiding the 'melting pot' approach to chowder, the chef allowed each individual piece of seafood to shine in a complementary broth. We were presented with a basket of different, freshly baked breads from which we each chose our favourites. As yet another example of attention to detail, the real butter that was served with our artisan breads was the perfect temperature for spreading (sparing us the task of trying to mash hard butter into soft bread - a mistake too many good restaurants make).
As we relished in our delicious chowder, the waitress deftly removed our dishes and re-set the table for our main courses. My choice of Irish Hereford Fillet of Beef with celeriac puree, roasted butternut squash, grilled courgettes, roasted baby carrots, pomme purée & veal jus ravioli (€26) was delicious, well plated and portioned. The grain in my steak proved it was no ordinary cut of beef and the chef cooked it too perfection, plating it at the perfect time knowing it would continue to cook for several minutes after being removed from the fire while it was brought to the table. The vegetables were crisp, colourful and full of flavour.
My host chose as his main the Warm Smoked Chicken Salad (€13) organic mixed leaves, chicken breast, gluten free black pudding, compressed pear, walnuts, goats cheese, cherry tomatoes, whole grain mustard & honey dressing. A restaurateur himself, my host was delighted with this meal, noting the walnuts were not chilled and damp, but crisp, having been freshly added to the salad just before serving. I was bold and tasted his mustard and honey dressing which proved of equally good ingredients and just the right blended proportions. Even the goats cheese and crisp lettuce earned his respect and praise (he isn't exactly known for his love of salads).
Farmhouse Irish Cheese, Crackers, Wine and Dessert
I contemplated passing on dessert, but our waitress tempted me with a plate of farmhouse Irish Cheese with crackers and chutney (I can resist anything, but temptation). Her wine suggestion of a Cotes Du Rhone by Guigal proved a perfect match. Even the most refined palate would have found the pairing of the cheese and wine delectable. The White Chocolate – Orange Tartlet my dinner companion chose was equally delicious (of course I tried it – and demonstrating how well trained our waitress was – she anticipated my liberty and boldness and brought a second dessert fork to the table).
Having lingered at the table for a substantial period I began to wonder if we had over-stayed our welcome. As the sun began to set we were offered cappuccino which proved the perfect end to an exceptional meal and that Clancy's hospitality is both gracious and patient.
Abundantly Talented Chef & Owners
Too busy to leave the kitchen to greet us (I took no offense), Chef Carmello Baldi proved he has mastered fare well beyond his native Italy. The produce, seafood, beef, cheeses, breads and ingredients he selected were extraordinarily fresh, well prepared and perfectly seasoned. The care with the presentation of each plate demonstrated his attention to detail which made the whole experience that much more enjoyable. Owners, Padraig and Catriona Hennessy seemed to have returned from their long-stint in America (running a popular restaurant and bar in the New York metropolitan area) and embracing an exceptional standard for personal customer service. Under their deft management, Clancy's has emerged as one of the true 'Jewels in the Crown' of Ireland's Ancient East.
Not a step was put wrong throughout the night and I can only look forward to returning again, soon.
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Sally Anne Sanders is an award winning journalist and travel writer who publishes regularly in her food and travel blog, 'Off the Beaten Path'.