AllWays Traveller Features
Discovering Seoul, Korea: A first-time visit
Seoul is the bustling capital of the Republic of Korea, usually known simply as South Korea to distinguish it from its sinister neighbour to the north.
We made our first visit to Seoul late last year and were impressed by its relaxed and calm ambience, its cleanliness and the ease with which Western visitors can navigate the city.
In Korea, ancient traditions blend seamlessly with cutting-edge technology. With its dynamic neighbourhoods, rich history and culinary delights, Seoul is an unforgettable travel destination. Whether you're drawn to its historical landmarks, vibrant culture or thriving food scene, you will not be disappointed with what the city has to offer.
Getting There
Travelling to Seoul is convenient, thanks to two major airports: Incheon International Airport (ICN) and Gimpo International Airport (GMP). Incheon is the primary international gateway, renowned for its modern facilities and efficient services. From the airport, visitors can take the Airport Railroad Express (AREX) to reach the city centre in about 45 minutes.
Alternatively, shuttle buses, taxis and private transfers are readily available. We rode from ICN to our city hotel with Welcome Pickups, which we have used in a number of cities worldwide and found them to be very reliable, if a little more expensive than most other forms of transport.
Once in the city, Seoul's public transport system is efficient and user-friendly. The Metro or subway network is extensive, with signs in English, making it easy for visitors to navigate. Purchasing a T-money card is recommended, as it allows seamless travel on buses and subways throughout the city.
Where to Stay
Choosing the right neighbourhood is key to enhancing your stay in Seoul. Here are three options:
Myeongdong: Known for shopping and street food, this area is a favourite for tourists and is where we stayed. With numerous hotels, restaurants, department stores and street markets it's convenient for shopping, dining and accessing public transport.
Hongdae: Home to a youthful, artistic vibe, Hongdae is famous for its nightlife, live music and trendy cafes. It's a great place to experience the city's youthful energy.
Gangnam: For those looking for luxury, Gangnam offers high-end everything and yet more shopping. This area is also known for its nightlife and upmarket dining options. Gangnam is south of the Han river and is the super-trendy part of the city – lots of new money, designer clothes, flashy cars, luxury apartments – but also very good hotels at quite reasonable prices.
Generally speaking, though, the main city and most of the places you'll want to see are north of the river, although a cruise down the Han is a nice way to see the best of both sides.
Each neighbourhood has its own charm and offers a variety of accommodation options, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels.
We chose Myeongdong because it was recommended by friends, and it was a good choice. We stayed at the Lotte City Hotel, which we liked for its convenient location and range of amenities. If you don't want to take breakfast in the restaurant, which is quite expensive, there is a delightful café on the ground floor, as well as a 7-Eleven convenience store open 24/7.
The metro station Euljiro3-ga is just a short walk from the hotel, as are several tourist attractions. Just around the corner from us was the huge Lotte Department Store and, in complete contrast, several local markets.
Many of the streets are decorated with colourful monuments, images and ornaments, and street performers can often be seen.
Must-See Attractions
Seoul is packed with attractions that showcase its unique blend of old and new.
Gyeongbokgung Palace: This stunning palace, built in 1395, is a must-visit. Don't miss the changing of the guard ceremony (above) every day except Tuesday at 10am and 2pm. Seoul has five palaces but we didn't have time to visit them all. The other four, in descending order of awareness by visitors, areChangdeokgung, Deoksugung, Changgyeongung and Gyeonghuigung.
Insadong: This suburb is one of the best places in Seoul to experience authentic Korean culture with its wooden tea houses, award-winning Korean restaurants and boutique galleries of traditional Korean fine art. It also has souvenir and handicraft shops, antique stores and places that sell pottery and porcelain. We walked there from our hotel, straight up the main street called Samil-daero, taking only about 15 minutes to get there.
If you're not as close to Insadong as we were you can take the Metro line 3 and get off at Anguk Station. Take exit 6 and go straight ahead for about 100 metres and then turn left into Insadong-gil, which is the start of the main shopping area. Insadong-gil is a pedestrian-friendly street where no vehicles are allowed from 10am to 10pm on certain days.
Bukchon Hanok Village: Visitors are free to wander through this traditional village, where beautifully preserved hanoks (traditional Korean houses) can be seen. It's situated not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.
N Seoul Tower: Offering panoramic views of the city, the 236.7-metre-high N Seoul Tower is a popular spot for both tourists and locals. The hike up Namsan Mountain will delight and challenge those so inclined, but the cable car will appeal to most visitors as it did to us.
Originally built in 1975 as a broadcasting tower, an observation deck was opened to the public in 1980 and the tower has since become one of the most visited tourist spots in Seoul, attracting millions of visitors each year. In 2005, major renovations were carried out including the addition of an LED light display on its exterior and creation of space inside for exhibitions and performances. Martial arts displays can also be viewed in the courtyard.
Korean barbecue
A feature about Seoul wouldn't be complete without mentioning the legendary Korean barbecue. You can get it at restaurants where you either cook it yourself, which most locals do, or you can have the staff cook it for you. We opted for the latter and the photo below shows how it's done. Not all of the barbecue restaurants do this so be sure to ask before you sit down or make a reservation.
Photos © Judy Barford
MORE INFORMATION:
Welcome to Seoul, Visit Seoul | The Official Travel Guide to Seoul
Location (Map)
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