Frightened by war and weary of Covid, I went in search of another world. I found it in the Scottish Highlands.
I was a 3-hour drive from my TV in Prestwick where the world seemed dominated by war, Covid and political indiscretion. In the silence and beauty of the Cromarty Firth in the Scottish Highlands at sunrise, I might as well have been on a different planet. I was certainly living a different life.
The newly risen sun coloured the sky hues of orange, purple and pale blue as it climbed above Fort George across the water. It laid a golden path back to the shore on which I sat. I could hear the rush of a brisk morning breeze which felt cold across my face. Somewhere the cry of a seagull, no doubt looking for fish, rose above the hiss of the sea breaking on the shore. I was looking for dolphins off Chanonry Point.
Chanonry point is a distinct peninsula which juts out into the waters of the Cromarty Firth beside the ancient town of Fortrose. Like so many places in Scotland, this place has its legends and history. It is said that a 17th Century fortune teller called the Brahan Seer lived and died near here. He was sentenced to a brutal execution for witchcraft by one Countess Isabella after accurately 'seeing' her husbands' infidelities in Paris. In the hour of his death, he placed a curse of the countess's family. They are said to have been plagued by various physical and mental afflictions for generations.
It was nature rather than history however which brought me here. Chanonry Point is one of the best places in Scotland to come and see wild dolphins. On a rising tide, the dolphins chase fish just meters from the shore. Though I hadn't seen them this morning I had not been disappointed. I was treated to a spectacular showing the previous evening. At least 3 bottlenose dolphins dived and wheeled and leapt after fish literally meters in front of us for about an hour. The scene was wild, breath-taking, and spectacular.
Even in the absence of the dolphins this morning, the sunrise alone would have been worth the visit. As it was, I was also treated to the sight of an otter hunting just offshore and then a curious seal popping its head clear of the surface briefly before diving and getting on with its day.
Chanonry Point, near the City of Inverness in the Scottish Highlands is just one of the countless attractions to be found on the iconic North Coast 500 Route. The North Coast 500 is a classic road trip around the very north of the Scottish Highlands. When I covered it in the winter of 2021, I drove north up the east coast from Inverness stopping off at John O Groats and Dunnet Head on the very Northernmost point of the British Isles. I then crossed the North Coast itself from east to west towards the tiny town of Durness before heading south along Scotland's Northwest Coast.
Though the east coast is perhaps not quite as scenic as the west, the views are still incredible and there are lots of historic sites to visit. A highlight of this coast for me however was the many Single Malt Whisky Distilleries including such household names as Glenmorangie and, further north, Clynelish which contributes to the full Johnnie Walker range of Blended Whiskies. For the Gin Drinkers among us the Dunnet Bay Gin Distillery produces Rock Rose Gin coming in a range of flavours using local botanicals and citrus fruits.
Coming down the west coast the views are simply out of this world as you meander along tiny remote roads among secluded white sand beaches and constantly flanked by wild, rugged mountains. On this part of the route, to take your eyes off the road for a second might lead to sudden death yet, such is the beauty around you that it's hard to keep your eyes on the road.
Officially the North Coast 500 crosses back again from west to east (if you rotate in that direction) finishing where it started in Inverness. If you are on your first visit to Scotland however, and flying into Edinburgh or Glasgow, I can't recommend enough ending the drive by sticking to the A82 southwards through Fort William. Not only will you travel through the lands of the Jacobite Rebellion in 1745 but you will also pass near the foot of the UKs highest mountain - Ben Nevis - before traversing the stunning mountain scenery of Glencoe. Then, as you travel south you will drive along the Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond itself shortly before reaching Glasgow.
For sure we can't deny the evil and tragedy abound in our world today. But it does no harm to remember the beauty, wilderness, and joy in every single day. For me it was a 3-hour drive and a night in a tent to find it. But the healing in those moments I found is priceless.