Lake Como's jaw-dropping beauty of its crystal clear water lapping at the shore of vibrant green trees on layered mountains, some snow covered, create a sense of majesty and peace.
Often mentioned as one of the most beautiful places in Italy, Lake Como does not disappoint. At the end of April, I was lucky enough to travel with friends to celebrate a friend's big birthday on Lake Como. What a great idea she had of renting VRBOs for a week at a time in four different locations in Italy where friends could join the couple to celebrate her birthday and take in all that an area offers. The only caveat was that everyone taking this trip needed to decide which of the four VRBOs was the location they wanted to stay for a week.
Lezzeno
Our VRBO was located in Lezzeno, a great central location with accessibility to other major towns by a short ferry ride away. In fact, these ferries became the most wonderful means of getting around. Our VRBO had a small but quirky kitchen and a nice dining/sitting room perfect for all of us to eat, play cards, eat and drink appertivos and wine. There was also that breathtaking view of the lake because we were right on the lake. In addition, we were very close to our VRBO was a "Navigazion", a very small boat dock where the ferries arrive.
Our VRBO owner suggested a restaurant just a half block from our place for excellent pizzas and pastas called Hotel Ristaurante Aurora. The view drew us to the lake's beauty, and the pizzas were as delicious as they looked.
Bellagio and Lavedo Peninsula
On our first day, we cruised past the splendor of Villa Del Balbariello, on the green peninsula of Lavedo, a villa with luscious and well maintained gardens in the commune of Lenno. You might recognize this villa from a Star Wars movie made by George Lucas and a James Bond movie. It is spectacular. Lenno is a less touristy town, on the western branch of Lake Como. Its ironwork ferry terminal, the most beautiful of the terminals, greets all ferry goers.
We ferried to Bellagio, the most famous of the towns on Lake Como.
To truly get a feel for how the rich live, step inside the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni where you will find frescos and gold everywhere done in the Empire, Neoclassical and Art Nouveau styles. This hotel is Swiss owned, and during WWII that meant the Fascist police couldn't step inside so it became a haven for refugees.
Bellagio hosts numerous alleys up steep cobblestone walkways lined with shops and small restaurants with small living quarters, each overflowing with plants and flower boxes. After our hiking up and down stairs, we found a perfectly tiny wine shop with outdoor seating to enjoy a glass of rosé. A walk down the walkway lined with flowers along the lake added to the charm of Bellagio. At the end of the walkway, we discovered a tribute to John F. Kennedy, a beautiful water feature.
Nesso
Orrido di Nesso in the village of Nesso is formed by the confluence of two streams that has divided the town in half with a dramatically steep waterfall which falls 656 feet to Lake Como. If you are looking for a spectacular view in a small little town, check this out.
Menaggio
I highly recommend a trip to Menaggio to experience the perimeter walls which surrounded a castle that was eventually burned to the ground. This Historical Walk Through Town will help you visualize what the Middle Ages were like in 1521 when the castle was burned. To reach the hill on which it stands, head to Costello, the medieval part of town. Take the cobbled slope behind the Parish Church of Santo Stefano. Along this cobblestone path you will see old water spigots, fonts, bas-reliefs, gates, and rock walls.
We loved walking the roads above Menaggio where we could see early signs of some perfectly planted vegetable gardens and beautiful home terraces loaded with lemon trees and flower pots everywhere.
Another interesting and unusual attraction is the Monument to the Silk Weaver, a sculpture along the waterfront. How did silk become a thing along Lake Como? In the sixth century, silkworms were smuggled out of China and brought to Italy. Mulberry bushes were planted in the Po River Valley region where silkworms could exist. Como became Italy's largest silk producer.
Varenna
Off to Varenna and Villa Cipressi, made up of a series of buildings dating from the 1400s to the 1800s owned by the people of Varenna. The botanical gardens, started in 1790, at the villa are spectacular. With their lush and perfectly manicured plants alongside the walkways, we peacefully strolled along winding paths through azaleas, camellias, roses, and rhododendrons. Wisteria adorned some of the walls that lead to steps, fountains, and sculptures at every turn in this garden.
Greenway del Lago di Como to Tremezzina
Another day we meandered on the Greenway del Lago di Como from Sala to Tremezzo, a great way to see the lake from the western side. (Tremezzina is made up of the communes of Tremezzo, Lenno and Mezzagra.) Along that walk after we ferried to Lenno, we walked to the tip of Lavedo Peninsula to see the magnificent Villa del Balbiano, considered to be the most beautiful villa on Lake Como. This land and original home dated back to 1537 but reconstruction to transform it to an elegant villa started in 1637.
As we were walking along the ancient Roman cobblestone road of Strada Regina which was used as an important connection between Como and the countries situated north of the Alps, we came across a 12th century church in the hamlet of Tremessina called San Giacomo. I was fascinated with how basic and crude the interior was with it roughly hewed wooden beams and faded frescos.
We continued toward the historical center of Lenno where we spotted a most unusual octagonal building with a small square bell tower called the Battistero di San Giovanni Battista (Lenno Baptistry, built in the 11th century.
Also, along the trail we came across a boat called "The Lucia" which we learned was a traditional boat specific to Lake Como. It was for transportation around the lake. The story is that Joseph Losavio and his wife left Italy to search for a better life in America and saw the Conestoga wagon used by pioneers to travel West. Finally, Joe and his wife returned to Lake Como where they would experience their better life. Joe designed a boat and named his Lucia the Conestoga. His boat was designed to resemble those wagons and their search for their best life.
There are so many ways to spend a week on Lake Como, but getting outdoors on foot and using the ferry system really connected us with the nature and beauty of the lake.
When You Go:
Car Rental
If you fly to the Milan Linate Airport, reserve a car from Renault Euro Drive if you plan to use a car for several weeks. We reserved the car for a month. They were the least expensive and insurance was included. A person met us right outside the doors of the airport to hand over the keys, and on the way back, the same person collected the keys outside those doors. The car was new with only 100 miles on it.
What to Wear
We were there in the spring so layers worked well. Be sure to put in an umbrella or a raincoat because it can be wet for parts of some days. Casual attire is all that is needed unless you want one change for something dressier for an evening out.
Useful links
