AllWays Traveller Features
Fasnacht in Basel is not to be taken lightly
Fasnacht is the name for the pre-Lent carnivals in Switzerland, southern Germany, Alsace and western Austria.
It is a time for people to go 'mad' and for chaos to rule. Where hierarchies are overthrown and everyone indulges in much food and drink.
While Fasnacht celebrations coincide with the pre-lent, pre-fasting period in the Catholic cities, towns and villages of Switzerland, in Protestant Basel they take place one week later.
And nowhere is Fasnacht embraced more wholeheartedly than in Basel. It is embedded into this historic city's culture and character.
As one Fasnacht finishes so the 12,000 participants, or Fasnachtler, start the planning, preparation and rehearsals for the next.
These year-round efforts result in a truly memorable three days for those lucky enough to be there to enjoy it.
When writing a feature a word will sometimes spring to mind that's just perfect for explaining a situation.
Cacophonic. Now that's an absolute gem of a word, I think you will agree. It also describes Basel Fasnacht to a 'T'.
A stirring, strident, jarring and discordant sound. Raucous and with harshness.
And it was indeed a cacophony of sound that assailed my senses when a Gugge band of 25 Einstein's (performing a rumbustious rendition of Spanish Eyes) came face to face with, rather ironically, a clique of Neanderthal's playing a military lament of sorts on piccolo and drums.
While these two groups, were faced with the dilemma of how best way to pass each other, they were confronted broadside by the Smurfs from the left (blasting out When I'm 64) and a trio of rampant drummers, dressed as grotesque clowns, from the right.
The show must go on
The four groups continued to perform unabated and unperturbed at the chaotic congestion. Soon enough we spectators were gently manoeuvred aside to enable the groups to go their separate ways.
Encounters like this would be repeated, time and again, by dozens of different groups throughout the three days and nights of carnival.
They will all be dressed in costumes and masks that are, by turn, dramatic, exotic, outrageous or just plain ludicrous.
And during Fasnacht, the historic old town becomes the domain of the 18,000 Fasnachtler who, in their Cliques and Gugge bands, will march and perform pretty much as, when and where the mood takes them.
Even the Cortège, the carnival parades, that take place on the Monday and Wednesday have the participants joining the circular procession route at their time and place of choosing.
If all this sounds complete mayhem and you are thinking someone ought to be getting things under control. Well, emphatically no.
This is a festival that belongs to the Fasnachtler and they rightly resist all but the minimum of organisation and regulation.
It works just fine
And it all works just fine as it is.
One must remember, of course, that we are talking Switzerland so the mayhem is going to be relatively reserved and extremely well behaved.
The Swiss people cherish the powers they enjoy over society and authority but they realise that, with this, comes a responsibility for self-control and regulation.
So despite thousands of performers and many thousands more spectators cramming into the old town, there is no need for the crowd control or the heavy police presence that puts an unfortunate edge on some carnivals in other parts of the world.
And while many of the bars and restaurants stay open day and night throughout, there is no hint of drunkenness or unsocial behaviour.
The masks more than dramatic effect
The other essential element of Basel Fasnacht is the masks worn by all the participants.
As well as adding colourful and dramatic effect it provides an anonymity that allows people of all age and social standing to take part. All Fasnachtler are equal.
The final abiding memory of Fasnacht in Basel is the confetti – hundreds of tons of the stuff. It is hurled by those aboard the carnival floats, along with flowers, sweets and oranges, and thrown over bystanders by the mischievous Waggis.
And woe betide those who have not purchased an official carnival badge, that helps fund the carnival festivities, and who are not on constant watch. (Or, it seems, any attractive young ladies). It's confetti down the back of the shirt time.
By the end of each day the confetti has formed a thick carpet everywhere and it is a real feat for this to be removed, as it is, by early the next morning.
And so from precisely 4.00 am on the Monday to exactly 4.00 am the following Thursday, Basel is dominated by the parades and performances of the Fasnachtler.
While all of this is taking place there is still plenty of opportunity to stroll the wonderful old town or along the majestic Rhine.
The bars and restaurants in the centre of town are full to brimming but venture down to the Rhine and there are any number of wonderful riverside restaurants to enjoy in relative peace.
An experience to savour
Basel Fasnacht is an experience to savour and one that words (however precise) will always fail to do justice to.
The facts
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Basel
Basel, in northwest Switzerland, is located on the river Rhine at the border with Germany and France.
It is the country's third largest city, after Zurich and Geneva.
Basel Fasnacht
Basel Fasnacht, the biggest carnival in Switzerland, takes place annually from precisely 4.00am on the Monday after Ash Wednesday until 4.00am on the following Thursday morning.
During the 72 hours of carnival the city's historic old town is taken over by the Fasnachtler, the 12,000 participants who dress in a wide variety of outrageous costumes and masks.
Many of the old town bars and restaurants remain open throughout..
The Sujet
Most of the groups choose a Sujet, or theme, for the Fasnacht, which will provide a focus on local,national or world events presented in satirical fashion.
A Sujet will also be depicted on the large lanterns that are carried or pulled by the Clique, in the costumes worn by Clique members and on the Zeedel or handbills they distribute.
The costumes
The participants will often theme their costumes to satirise famous politicians or celebrities, put a focus on current affairs or to represent comic characters or animals.
Others will stick with the more traditional masks depicting Napoleonic soldiers or Stänzler (inspired by the military uniforms worn by the Basel regiment in the 19th century) or the Harlekin (reminiscent of the Commedia dell'Arte).
As well as enhancing the dramatic effect, the masks also ensure the anonimity of the participants, an important element of Basel Fasnacht.
The groups
Basel Fasnacht's distinct groups are the Cliques, the Gugge and the Waggis.
The Cliques
The Cliques are groups who march up down and across the streets of the old town playing the piccolo flute and basler drum.
The pipers (Pfeifer) and drummers (Trommler) are led on these processions by a vanguard of marchers (Vortrab) who will gently move spectators out of the way.
Because they do not follow set routes, different Cliques will regularly cross each others path. When they do one will stop and let the other pass.
The Gugge
The Gugge, are the brass bands who play Guggenmusik throughout Fasnacht either on the march or from impromptu venues throughout then old town.
The Waggis
Finally there will be those who dress as Waggis, the infamous and impish creatures who spend Fasnacht throwing confetti at over or down the backs of spectators as they stroll the old town or from the floats taking part in the Cortège.
The three day programme
Morgestraich
The Morgestraich, on Monday morning, marks the start of Basel Fasnacht.
At exactly 4am all the lights in the old town of Basel are turned off to herald a parade of over 200 lanterns by the Cliques to the accompanianment of pipes and drums.
The Cortège
The Cortege are the parades, which take place on Monday and Wednesday afternoon, around two defined circuits of the city.
During these two processions, the Cliques and Gugge are joined by dozens of floats carrying Waggis who toss oranges, flowers and sweets to the crowd and shower them with confetti.
Children and family Fasnacht
The Children and Family Fasnacht takes place on Tuesday with many parades through the city.
The lantern exhibition
A spectacular exhibition of over 200 lanterns is staged on the Münsterplatz on Carnival Tuesday.
Gugge concerts
The Gugge come into their own on Tuesday evening, with outdoor concerts throughout the city.
The end of Fasnacht
Basel Fasnacht ends at precisely 4.00am on Thursday morning when the sound of pipes, drums and brass that has been resounding through the old tow for the previous 72 hours stops abruptly, not to be heard until the same time next year.
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