Resilient and creative people, hardened by a tough climate and stormy seas, have dominated Orkney's history since Neolithic times.
Skara Brae, for example, pre-dates Stonehenge and the Pyramids, and the rugged, practically treeless terrain is home to over 22,000 people.
However, the population is swelled considerably by tourists in the height of the season.
Add to that, locals claim that Orkney receives more destination cruise ship port calls in one season than any other destination in Britain.
Weather is a factor here. Rain can suddenly appear and, during our trip to the West Mainland, the heart of Neolithic Orkney, there were 60mph gusts.
However, we still enjoyed dramatic cliffs, stunning coastal scenery, thriving sea bird colonies and indulging in spectacular walks.
We also stepped back in time to see how our ancestors survived 5,000 years ago, living in communities including Skara Brae, a must-see.
There are also small tombs, standing stones and pre-historic villages dotted around the stark landscape.
The standing stones of Stenness are thought to be part of the world's earliest standing stone circle and don't miss the Maeshowe Chambered Tomb, claimed to be the finest Neolithic burial chamber in Northern Europe.
The cairn's entry passage is aligned so the setting midwinter sun illuminates the interior chamber at the Winter Solstice.
The island's in the East Midlands have been linked by barriers commissioned by Winston Churchill in the Second World War to block German submarines gaining access to Scapa Flow, one of the world's finest natural anchorages and home to the British Fleet.
On Lamb Holm stands the Italian Chapel built by prisoners of war brought in to build the barriers.
They requested two Nissen huts as a place of worship and they transformed them using basic materials including tin food cans into the most-visited of Orkney's wartime landmarks.
There is much more to see, including the main town, Kirkwall, whose skyling is dominated by St Magnus Cathedral, started in 1137 by the Norse Earl Rognvald.
Orkney actually remained under Norse rule until it was annexed by the Scots for non-payment of a dowry following the marriage in 1469 of Margaret of Denmark and James III of Scotland.
So, there is much to see and there are plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars plus accommodation.
Where is Orkney?
It is at the top of Scotland, 306 miles from Edinburgh on an island which is 436 miles from Norway and 718 from London.
The rugged, practically treeless terrain is home to over 22,000 people with Kirkwall the main town.
The Big Tree
The Big Tree is a 200-year-old sycamore which is a well-loved landmark and a meeting place for generations of Orcadians. It was threatened with demolition in the 1990's but public pressure saved it and an iron bar has been inserted in the trunk to give support.
St Magnus Cathedral
St Magnus Cathedral in Broad Street is visited by over 120,000 visitors a year and it has guided tours lasting around 45 minutes.
Skara Brae
The Neolithic village is one of Orkney's most-visited ancient sites and regarded by many as one of the most remarkable prehistoric monuments in Europe.
In 1850, a great storm battered Orkney and the wind and high tides stripped the grass from a large mound. It revealed the outline of a number of stone buildings and local laird, William Watt, of Skaill, embarked on an excavation of the site.
Skaill House
The 17-th century sits next to Skara Brae and there you can discover tales of Captain Cook. Lairds, bishops and experience the home as it was in times gone by. Open April to September. It has two self-catering apartments in the private wing.
Maeshowe Chambered Cairn
One of Europe's finest chambered tombs built 5,000 years ago. The entrance passage is aligned with the setting of the midwinter sun so that the light illuminates the tomb's interior. There is Norse grafitti on the walls.
Standing Stones of Stenness
Thought to be the earliest henge monument in Britain. The stones are what remain of a great stone circle on an ancient ceremonial site.
Tomb of the Eagles
Discover how local farmer Ronnie Simpson uncovered a Stone Age tomb and Bronze Age site on his land.
Italian Chapel
Two Nissen huts transformed into an intimate and colourful chapel by Italian PoW's during the Second World War using items like barbed wire and tin cans.
Stomness Museum
A unique collection telling the story of Orcadians along with the natural and maritime history. Open daily.
Fern Valley wildlife centre
The most northerly wildlife centre in Britain with meerkats to mice and hedgehogs to snakes. It has a tearoom.
www.orkneyjar.com/history/skarabrae
www.fernvalleywildlifecentre.co.uk
Orkney Trike Tours
Chauffeur-driven with pick-up and drop-off at your convenience.
Peedie Orkney Tours
Peedie Orkney Tours offer trips for up to six passengers and they cater for any length of tour.
Car hire
Vehicles are available from several companies including small, medium and large, 4x4 and mini-bus with free delivery in the Kirkwall area, free child booster and safety seat, free airport transfers and a free extra driver
Local crafts
Traditional strawback Orkney chairs in oak, walnut and sapele are made here and you can visit the workshop.
Distilleries
Highland Park has been distilled since 1798 on the same site as Magnus Eunson's original illicit still at High Park.
The distillery lies almost in the Arctic Circle on a latitude of 58.9847°N, roughly the same as Anchorage, Alaska.
Scapa is on the shore of Scapa Flow and is the second most northern whisky distillery in Scotland, half a mile south of the Highland Park.
A new addition, an award-winning gin distillery which is in a distinctive building on the waterfront.
Husband and wife team Stephen and Aly Kemp launched their first gin, Kirkjuvagr in 2016 and are driving the business forward. All do tours and have visitor centres.
Shopping
It's centre, even at 4.30pm on a Saturday afternoon, a normal pressure point for shoppers in major cities, was quiet.
There are big brand names like Boots but there are also distinctive local shops selling jewellery including Sheila Fleet and Hourston with gifts from local, Scottish and UK designers, and knitwear.
The specialist wool shop, for example, pictures the sheep of origin on the packaging along with the animal's name. It is run by Annie glue, a local knitwear designer.
There are also plenty of cafes including Judith Glu, the real food café, where Judith sells here famous knitwear designs, and bars around for a small refreshment.
There is also a lifestyle store in Kirkwall called Starlings which has eight local jewellery designers under one roof along with Scottish crafts and textiles.
Food
We loved The Shore, stylish in the restaurant but non-descript outside, in Shore Street.
The scallop carbonara and the lamb were well-recommended along with the monkfish wrapped in Parma ham with a pesto and pine nut sauce.
Helgi's in Harbour Street is also central and served British and European comfort food with a twist. How about lamb stovies – there could have been more meat - drizzled with toasted oats and beetroot? Bags of atmosphere.
You are best, by the way, to book restaurants, particularly in high season, but locals also like to get out and about.
There are Indian and Chinese options and visit the Orkney Food and Drink website for more details of members and their products.
A place to stay
We stayed at the well-appointed, eight-room Royal Oak B&B in Holm Road, a £5 taxi ride (1km) from the centre. It has ample parking and views over the town.
We enjoyed the hospitality of affable Liz Bruce including her home-cooked breakfast highlighted by tasty local sausages and black pudding.
www.Stayinkirkwall.co.uk/royal-oak.html
How we got there?
On a 16-seat, comfortable Mercedes mini-coach from Edinburgh Bus Station on a five-day Orkney tour organised by award-winning company, Rabbie's Tours, whose tagline is Go Beyond the Guidebooks.
We had an experience guide who knew the stories, sights and secrets of the area. The guide, Iain Murray, proved to be la crème de la crème of guides I've enjoyed in my travels. His knowledge, humour and accessibility – plus his Scottish music selection – made this trip special.
Our entry to the island was by the one-hour ferry trip from near underwhelming John O'Groats to St Margaret's Hope.
Summing up, Orkney has a lot to offer, not just good food and friendly people.
How to get there
Air
Fly with Loganair
You can fly to Orkney with Loganair, seven days-a-week from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Inverness and Shetland.
From Glasgow (60 minutes), Edinburgh (60 minutes), Inverness (45 minutes), Aberdeen (50 minutes) and Shetland (35 minutes).
Coach
Citylink from the main Scottish bus stations to Aberdeen and Scrabster that connect with the NorthLink Ferries. Scottish Citylink Coaches t:08705 505050.
Stagecoach operates a local service between Thurso and Gill's Bay to connect with Pentland Ferries.
The Orkney Bus in partnership with John O'Groats Ferries t:01955 611353.
Train
Inverness to Thurso (bus connection to Scrabster) with Scotrail Railways
Sea
- NorthLink Ferries, Aberdeen - Kirkwall - Shetland (3/4 sailings per week);
- Scrabster to Stromness (2/3 sailings per day)
- Pentland Ferries Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope (3/4 sailings per day)
- John O'Groats Ferries
- John O'Groats - Burwick, South Ronaldsay (May to September, passenger only service)
Tours
Rabbie's in Edinburgh do excellent, escorted tours. That's how I got there.
You pick up the comfortable, 16-seat Mercedes bus at Edinburgh Bus Station and they do the rest.