Heading south in the Aegean Sea on a large Greek ferry, the first sighting of Crete in the windswept waters ahead is uncertain.
Then it rises like a leviathan in the mist, the lights of Heraklion twinkling in the approaching darkness. Fifteen minutes later we are alongside the quay, gangways clang into place, drivers start their engines and travellers on foot jostle for position as the ferry prepares to disgorge its passengers.
We have arrived at Heraklion, the capital city of Crete, Greece's largest island, where ancient Minoan history blends with modern city life and stunning coastal scenery.
On this trip around the Greek Islands my wife and I booked everything – internal flights, ferries, accommodation – through a Turkish travel agent, Mediterra Holidays, who proved to be very knowledgeable and service-oriented. We arrived in Heraklion by ferry from Santorini and stayed at the Lato Boutique Hotel overlooking the old Venetian port.
Heraklion can also be reached by air. Heraklion International Airport (HER) is the main airport of Crete, located five kilometres east of the city and the second busiest airport in Greece.
Heraklion, sometimes rendered as Iraklio, is the largest city in Crete, with a population of around 179,000 in the city proper and over 211,000 in the metropolitan area. The city has been continuously inhabited since at least 7000 BC, making it one of Europe's oldest urban centres.
It has been defined by various multicultural influences over the centuries including, in ancient times, those of the occupying Romans and Arabs and later the Venetians and Turks, resulting in many Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman structures in Heraklion and elsewhere on the island.
History
In 1669 Crete was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, bringing to an end the 465-year Venetian occupation of the island, which had been a prosperous period for Crete. A century-and-a-half later, in 1821, Crete took part in the Greek War of Independence and while the majority of Greece seceded, Crete did not. The lack of supplies and the large number of Turks and Turko-Cretans on the island restricted its ability to gain independence.
A significant thoroughfare in Heraklion is 25th of August Street which runs from Saint Mark's Square down to the port. The street is named after a massacre on 25 August 1898, when Turkish fanatics rampaged through the city, damaging buildings and slaughtering more than 500 Christians and others, including 17 British soldiers and the British Consul.
This act of violence hastened negotiations for the union of Crete with the rest of Greece and the removal of the Turkish forces from the island. Crete was finally integrated into the Greek state on 1 December 1913.
The city today
One of the first things you notice about Crete is the subtle change of pace compared with the smaller Greek islands. There's a greater sense of urgency in the way everyday tasks are performed. Down along Heraklion's port there's a constant hum of activity. Ferries, cruise ships and fishing boats negotiate the waterway skilfully and there's a whiff of diesel in the air. The deep, resonant blast of a ship's horn periodically punctuates the background noise.
Walk up the street into town and there's a similar buzz of retail activity. People are still relaxed but not completely laid back. On the contrary, you're most likely to find a group of locals in a neighbourhood kafeneia in a heated debate about politics, while sipping strong coffee.
In short, the city's dynamic atmosphere combines Mediterranean serenity with a bustling city life and port activity.
The culinary scene is a highlight, featuring traditional tavernas serving local dishes and Cretan wines. The city's cosmopolitan sophistication adds to its appeal, with world-class restaurants and vibrant nightlife options.
Heraklion's shopping and marketplaces also contribute to its charm, offering a glimpse into the local way of life. Overall, Heraklion is a city that balances tradition with modernity, providing a memorable experience for all who visit.
Landmarks
25th of August Street is now a paved pedestrian street and boasts the most beautiful Neoclassical buildings in Heraklion. At the end of the street and in the parallel alleyway of Agios Dimitrios are ouzeri (ouzo bars) serving delicious mezze platters.
The city's landmark is the 16th-century Koules fortress on the westernmost side of the old Venetian port, together with the fortification walls which date back to the same period.
From the port it's a short walk along 25th of August Street to the Agios Titos Cathedral. Agios Titos was the first Bishop of Crete and the church was dedicated to him to strengthen Christianity on the island.
Next to it is the 16th-century Loggia or city hall, an ornate Venetian building that served as a meeting place for the duke and other noblemen during the Venetian period.
Don't miss Heraklion's Venetian and Turkish fountains, scattered around the city. The most famous one is the Venetian-style Μorosini fountain (aka the Lions fountain) from 1628, a landmark for locals and visitors alike.
Museums, monuments and markets
Heraklion has excellent museums and one of the largest aquariums in Europe. And for history buffs, without doubt the most fascinating ancient treasure of the region lies just beyond the city limits. Knossos Palace wasn't just the most important centre of Minoan civilisation but it was the home of the legendary Minotaur and its labyrinth.
Knossos is the largest and one of the oldest Minoan archaeological sites, which began as a neolithic settlement around 7000 BC and was abandoned after its destruction in 1375 BC, which marked the end of Minoan civilisation.
In the city centre, the Archaeological Museum is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The exhibits include representative samples from all periods of Cretan history, comprising more than 5,000 artefacts and covering more than 5,000 years. The most famous frescoes of Knossos Palace are housed here, including the Bull Leaper, Prince of the Lilies, the Saffron Gatherer, Ladies in Blue and La Parisienne.
Other attractions
Wineries: Visitors can explore family-run estates like Lyrarakis and Domaine Paterianakis to taste local wines.
Beaches: Northern and southern coasts offer beautiful beaches, including the famous Matala, a former hippie haven.
Opportunities for adventure travellers in Crete
Next time we'll look at the city of Chania, which together with Heraklion offers a plethora of opportunities for adventure travellers. From the breathtaking Samaria Gorge to the serene Balos Lagoon, here are some of the top adventure activities available on the island:
Hiking and Trekking: Explore the stunning Samaria Gorge, known for its panoramic views and challenging trails.
Snorkelling and Scuba Diving: Discover the rich marine life of the Cretan waters, diving among reefs, caves and shipwrecks along the northern coast.
Jeep Safari and Off-Road Tours: Experience the island's rugged terrain with guided jeep safaris, offering a mix of adventure and exploration.
Kayaking and Sea Exploration: Navigate the Cretan coastline on a kayak, enjoying the natural beauty and tranquillity of the sea.
Rock Climbing and Canyoning: Challenge yourself with rock climbing and canyoning expeditions, perfect for those seeking physical exertion and breathtaking views.
These activities are just a glimpse of the adventure opportunities Crete has to offer. With its diverse landscapes and warm climate, Crete is an ideal destination for adventure seekers looking to create unforgettable memories in nature.
More information
Photos © Judy Barford