French Polynesia is an overseas territory of France located in the central South-Pacific, about halfway between Australia and South America. It consists of five archipelagos – Austral, Gambier, Marquesas, Society and Tuamotu – containing some 130 islands that stretch for more than 2,000km.
Tahiti is the most developed and populous island in French Polynesia, but beyond the hustle and bustle of its capital city, Papeete, lies a remarkable landscape rich in hiking opportunities.
I've been travelling to French Polynesia for more than 30 years and never tire of its stunning vistas. I'm not alone, it attracts all sorts of people. In 1969 lone French sailor, Bernard Moitessier, abandoned his winning position in the Golden Globe around-the-world race and instead of heading for the finishing line in England, he sailed on. Disillusioned with Western society and not content with one circumnavigation, he sailed halfway round the world again, landing at his beloved Tahiti where he remained for many years, living in a bamboo beach cottage.
Almost 80 years earlier, French post-impressionist artist, Paul Gauguin, formed a similar view and towards the end of his life moved from France to French Polynesia. Over a period of 10 years he lived in Tahiti, then Punaauia and finally the Marquesas. His paintings adorn the walls of many buildings throughout the islands.
Hiking trails
French Polynesia is famed for its crystal-clear turquoise lagoons, both white and black sand beaches and picturesque overwater bungalows, but to experience it in all its majesty go off the beaten track and explore inland. There you'll find spectacular waterfalls, striking mountain peaks, lush valleys and ancient ruins.
Whether you're a beginner or more advanced, there are plenty of opportunities for trail walking in the islands. A local guide is recommended, as access to many of the trailheads can be tricky. Permits are required for certain trails, and some can only be accessed by 4×4 vehicles. Here are some of the best places to go hiking in Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora.
Tahiti
The first four hikes are classified as easy.
Papenoo Valley is great for families and is home to some of the most popular hiking trails in Tahiti. The valley offers a well-rounded glimpse of Tahiti's landscape with magnificent waterfalls, ancient archaeological sites, lush vegetation and picturesque canyons. Here you can find the only hike in Tahiti that allows access to the Mount Orohena volcanic crater.
Te Pari is located in the southernmost part of Tahiti Iti and the Te Pari trail is accessible only by boat, offering an expedition into the uninhabited natural area of Tahiti. This scenic coastal hike ventures between the ocean and the Te Pari Cliffs with many points of interest along the way including white sandy beaches, the famous Vaipoiri Cave, lava tubes and the Queen's Bathing Pool.
Faraura Valley is a must for those interested in seeing waterfalls while hiking. You can view four of them here, as well as the Mahateaho River and lush Tahitian flora.
Fautaua Valley is situated near Papeete and its trail offers a relatively easy hike through a forest of lush, tropical vegetation. There are several points of interest along this trail, including the Fachoda Bridge and Fort, Fautaua Waterfall, the Governor's Gardens, Teovere Pass and stunning views of the Diadem Mountain. You must obtain an access permit from Papeete Town Hall before entering the trail.
The following two hikes are rated as moderate and difficult respectively.
Hitiaa Lava Tubes near Taravao are some of the most unique and magnificent hiking trails in Tahiti. Formed hundreds of thousands of years ago when hot lava cooled and rapidly hardened, these lava tubes provide an extraordinary caving experience – you have to hike in the darkness and swim for part of it.
Mount Aorai is the third-highest peak in Tahiti, rising 2,066 metres. The trail is well-marked and maintained so although a guide isn't strictly necessary, one is recommended for safety purposes as the path winds along a narrow ridge. The scenic trail is lush and features fascinating local flora. Some say that the panoramic views from the summit are among the best in the world.
Moorea
A quick ferry ride away from Tahiti, Moorea is a peaceful and slow-paced island with stunning natural wonders. Beyond the turquoise lagoon and glistening bays lie emerald peaks, fragrant pineapple fields, and lush valleys just waiting to be explored.
The first two hikes below are easy, the third moderate.
Three Coconuts Pass (Col des Trois Cocotiers) is the most popular hiking trail in Moorea. It's well-maintained and easy to follow. The trail begins at the Belvedere parking lot and offers impressive views of Mount Tohivea, the Opunohu Valley, Opunohu Bay, Cook's Bay and more.
Three Pines Pass (Col des Trois Pinus) is named for the three distinct pine trees found along the trail and offers expansive views of Mount Rotui, Opunohu Bay and Cook's Bay, as well as the famous pineapple fields of Moorea.
Afareaitu Waterfall is located in the Afareaitu Valley and is a relatively short trail with many points of interest along the way. Rich, colourful vegetation abounds and visitors can delight in taking a refreshing dip in the glistening pools beneath the picturesque falls.
Bora Bora
The following three hikes are, in order of listing, easy, moderate and difficult.
Ancestors' Path – winding through the Valley of the Kings, the Ancestors' Path in Bora Bora is famous for the giant banyan tree that sits atop the valley (apparently the inspiration behind the Tree of Souls in the Avatar film). The banyan tree has great cultural significance as it served as the final resting place for the kings of Bora Bora. This trail features ancient temples and colourful native flora, culminating at an exquisite outlook with panoramic views of the famous Bora Bora lagoon and neighbouring islands.
Mount Otemanu is the most iconic peak in French Polynesia. While it is not possible to reach the summit by foot due to safety reasons, visitors can still explore its various hiking trails, including the path to the Cave of Mount Otemanu on the north-eastern side of the mountain.
Mount Pahia is the second-highest summit in Bora Bora and boasts incredible panoramic views. Because of dangerous trail conditions a local guide is essential for this hike, and climbing experience is also necessary.
The islands featured here are the most popular destinations in French Polynesia, but hiking is also possible on some of the other islands farther away from Tahiti. The local tourist information centres can get you started.
Useful links
tahititourisme.com.au/en-au/covid-19
neverendingfootsteps.com/whats-it-like-travel-french-polynesia