The whoosh of air alerted me to the Killer Whale surfacing just off our starboard side. It's black dorsal fin cut through the water like a knife.
The huge bull from L pod was travelling quickly thru the indigo blue waters of the San Juan Islands.
This group of 172 various islands lie at the northwest corner of Washington State near Vancouver Island.
It is home to three pods or family groups of Killer Whales, J, K, and L.
This is the best place in the United States to see these black and white and largest members of the Dolphin family.
Whale sightings are common during the peak season of May thru September. I prefer August for its weather and higher concentrations of whales around the islands as the Salmon concentrate closer to shore on their migration to the Frasier River in British Columbia. Salmon are the primary food for the resident pods and they follow the fish.
I was aboard the "Mystic Sea" out of Anacortes, Washington. This 100 foot vessel is my favorite of the many options to see marine mammals and other wildlife among the myriad of tree covered islands that comprise the San Juans. I was on my third trip in three years to this archipelago and each time I was able to see multiple whales and other critters.
The sun was shining and the sea had a light roll to it as the ship churned the water of Rosario Strait heading North. We travelling up the east side of Orcas Island and passed the San Juan Islands National Wildlife Refuge.
Captain Eric was in constant contact with his network of whale watching friends and knew exactly where to find our elusive prey. Killer whales are constantly on the move and finding them takes coordination. The Patos Island lighthouse could be seen as we cruised further north to the invisible watery border with Canada.
Ninety minutes after departing part we got our first sighting off of East Point in Canadian waters. Parts of all three resident pods were frolicking in the area. I saw a total of over 30 Orcas. It was not a super-pod, when all three pods travel together, but my camera was busy with all the activity. I saw breaching, spy hopping, and tail slapping along with the huge dorsal fin of whale L92.This giant bull has been named "Crewser" and he is over 20 years old. Killer Whales are identified by the pattern of the white areas on their bodies especially the saddle below the dorsal fin. The dorsal fins with their nicks and cuts are another major identifier.
Whale watching boats are restricted to 200 yards distance and must be moving slowly when in the area of whales. They must also not block the path of the whales. Now the whales may have other ideas and it is not uncommon for them to pop up much closer. We spent over an hour watching these spectacular mammals. Several females would travel together. I was able to view a baby break the surface behind its mother. All of these whales are members of the Southern Resident Killer Whale (SRKW) population that was classified as endangered in 2005.
L pod is the largest with about 35 members and a total of 76 whales for all three resident pods according to the Institute for Whale Research on San Juan Island. Transient killer whales are common in the summer as they hunt the large populations of seals. They will also attack dolphins, porpoises, and other mammals.
Our sojourn with the whales was soon over and the ship headed back towards port. The Captain made sure we took some minor detours to see the harbor seals and sea lions basking in the afternoon sun near Clark Island State Park on the Sisters Islands. A Great Blue Heron could be seen silently moving thru the shallows in his search for lunch. A Bald Eagle was perched atop a small islet as if a lookout for us.
The Burrows Island Light Station passed by on our starboard side as the ship cruised into the waters of Fidalgo Bay and our dock in Anacortes. Anacortes is the home of the San Juan Island ferry. This ferry terminal allows you to visit the major islands of San Juan, Orcas, Shaw and Lopez islands. Check departure schedules as these runs are popular in the summer and waits of over an hour are not unusual. Buy you tickets in advance and arrive early. Be prepared to pay extra if you are transporting a vehicle.
San Juan Island and its major town of Friday Harbor are a delight. The marina is full of small pleasure craft that cruise these waters. The town is the home of the Whale Museum and it is a well worth a visit to learn even more about the Orcas that are the soul of the islands. Several good restaurants and B&Bs are located a short walk from the Ferry Terminal.
The scenic Roche Harbor at the north end of the island and its historic Hotel de Haro has lovely views over its small harbor.Orcas can be seen from shore at various points on the island but Lime Kiln State Park is the main location. I flew here once from Seattle by floatplane. This is a great option if you are short of time. It makes a great day trip.
Orcas Island is the largest island in the archipelago. The Victorian Rosario Resort is located here and is a first class destination on the National Historic Register. It is the former estate of Seattle businessman and Mayor Robert Moran. The Moran mansion is now a museum on the property. The Moran State Park with great views from Mt. Constitution is nearby
While whale watching tours are available in several locations, I prefer Anacortes. You can drive to Anacortes without having to take your car on a ferry but still affords you the opportunity of using the Washington State Ferry system to expand you visit. The tours out of Friday Harbor have also been very successful for me. Most tours have a biologist on board to help describe the mammals you see and their habitat. I have also had the good fortune of seeing Humpback and Minke whales on my various adventures to these evergreen covered islands. I use my photographs to try and identify the various Orcas from the books on board the tour boat, at The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor, or online at https://whalemuseum.org/collections/meet-the-whales.
Orcas are majestic beautiful animals that are endangered. One of the best ways to help them is visit the islands they make their home and learn why they are killers whom I have grown to love not fear.
Postscript: Since my visit to the San Juan Islands, the Southern Resident Pods have been in a decline. Crewser is reported to have died. The population of these magnificent animals is at its lowest point in decades. The State of Washington is considered ways to help these icons of the State but the outlook is grim. Any help you can give to support these wild predators of the sea would be appreciated. Jim Chamberlain
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