Downtown Miami, embracing the Bicknell financial centre, is the city's historic business district.
Downtown also takes in the Omni district - a blend of residential, commercial and hotel developments and the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts - and Park West, embracing the city's Museum Park.
Gleaming commercial developments and startling white 'skyscraper' apartments have created a stunning skyline around the sweeping Biscane Bay.
Downtown is now the vibrant heart of Miami with a fast growing resident population of young, affluent, professions.
A whole host of artistic, dining and entertainment opportunities have been attracted as a result and it all makes for a memorable city break.
South Beach and a string of historic neighbourhoods and districts are also within very easy reach of Downtown.
Looking beyond South Beach
I am the first to understand why there are those who will not look beyond South Beach, when visiting Miami for a vacation.
South Beach offers fizz, fun, glitz and glamour, a non-stop party feel and the chance - just maybe - to spot a celebrity or two.
Then there is pastel coloured, truly iconic, art deco architecture and, oh yes, the beach itself.
So why forgo all this and opt for a break in Miami's Downtown?
Cultural sophistication
Well, to begin with, because there are those who prefer the cultural sophistication that a city break offers.
In many US cities, downtown will be an area of grand yet faded facades and a place struggling to recover from years of gradual decline.
The potential for renaissance is obvious, but the challenge to achieve it a daunting one.
Primarily because there is little enthusiasm, by all but a few, to live there.
So evening comes, downtown becomes deserted, drains of life and takes on a slightly uneasy air.
Not so Miami
In Miami, in absolute contrast, the city authorities have followed a clear, determined and coordinated vision to its regeneration and development.
This is in no small measure due to the Brickell financial centre having been established directly next to the historic Downtown area.
The investment attracted into Brickell has had a consequential and highly positive effect on the regeneration of the wider Downtown area..
Many thousands of young professionals have also made Downtown home, with many others arriving all the time to take up residence in the sky scraping apartment blocks that are springing up.
It all equates to a vibrant, teeming city centre environment.
People make places
As a travel journalist, I am always stressing that people that make places and nowhere is this more relevant than in Miami's Downtown.
Having decided to eschew South Beach in its favour, we arrived at the JW Marriott Miami early on a Sunday evening.
After the long flight we had planned to get a drink and something to eat in the hotel, presuming the downtown area would be deserted.
But not so, the area was buzzing
Ambling along Brickell Avenue we shared the sidewalk with singles and couples pushing strollers, walking their dogs, jogging or heading out for the evening on the town.
Many smiled a warming hello or gave us a welcoming 'good evening'.
Live music drifted from a number of bars and restaurants, people sat outside in cafes and there was not a hint of threat.
We found an intimate piano bar, with a tremendous pianist, enjoyed our first Margarita's of this trip to the Sunshine State and just knew that our stay in Downtown Miami was going to be a good one.
Pacing oneself
When taking any short break, particularly a city break, do not attempt to cram in too much. You can end having ticked all the tourist spot boxes while appreciating very little.
This is undoubtedly the case with Miami where the heat, particularly during the summer months, can be overbearing for dashing around.
I would therefore suggest spending the first full day strolling casually around to get a feel for the place.
Stop for refreshments in places that look local and interesting and take the chance to strike up conversations with servers and fellow customers.
Many rewarding, off-piste, recommendations will come through this route. Choose where to eat with care as 'wining and dining' will play a crucial part of the city break.
Downtown Miami is an excellent destination for doing just this, with some truly memorable lunch and fine dining opportunities (as Ann will explain in AllWays somewhere to dine.)
Choose your attractions
Then opt for one or two 'must see' attractions, with others if time or length of stay permits.
Minami has any number to choose from with the emphasis on arts and culture.
Yes - there is such a thing as a free ride
And if the heat gets too much or the legs begin to tire, the city's Metromover and trolley service offers free travel throughout Downtown and beyond (see Getting around).
Downtown will not disappoint
A short break in Miami's downtown will not disappoint.
The stunning cityscape with the Miami River flowing into the expanse of clear water that is the Biscane Bay, and which separates Miami fromthe Miami Beach barrier island.
There are many fine dining, entertainment and cultural options within Downtown and the chance to get to the beach or historic districts if time and inclination permits.
And all this infused with the glorious
Arts and entertainment
The Pérez Art Museum
The Pérez Art Museum Miami(PAMM) is one of the finest centres of international art of the 20th and 21st centuries in the Sunshine State.
The Museum, which is located in Museum Park alongside Biscayne Bay, has a number gallery spaces and a waterfront restaurant.
PAMM has also transformed Museum Park into a major attraction and has acted as a catalyst for the city's thriving community of artists and designers.
HistoryMiami
To get an excellent understanding of the city's past visit HistoryMiami, which details and celebrates Miami's history through exhibitions, city tours, collections and publications.
The Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts
The Adrienne, which is Florida's largest performing arts centre houses the Florida Grand Opera and the Miami City Ballet.
It stages 500 events each year in eight performance spaces. each year including the largest jazz series in south Florida, the biggest flamenco festival on the East Coast and a programme concerts, cabaret and new theatrical works.
A place to stay: the JW Marriott Miami
By Ann Mealor
Situated in Miami's swish financial district, the JW Marriott Miami is the 'grand dame' of hotels being the first to open in this area.
Due to its city location, the Marriott has many professional clients, but it also has much to offer the leisure traveller with its chic elegance and excellent situation.
The hotel is within walking distance of the trendy Mary Brickell Village shops, bars and restaurants.
The free shuttle service stops near the hotel and offers access to all the major attractions.
Relief from the heat
After exploring the sights and sounds of this great city, the Marriott's large, cool reception area offers instant relief from the Miami heat and its comfy sofas and chairs a welcome respite for weary feet.
Our room tastefully decorated in golds, browns and beige was spacious with an espresso machine, desk, free Wifi and a huge leather 'sink into me' Ralph Lauren armchair.
A flatscreen TV hung on the wall opposite the hugely comfortable feather bed. The bathroom was large with a marble bath, shower and plenty of good quality toiletries.
We stayed on the 20th floor, overlooking the Miami cityscape and were lucky enough to have access to the Concierge Lounge.
Here we could enjoy a great complimentary breakfast with smoked salmon, cold meats, cheeses, fresh fruit, crispy bacon and scrambled eggs.
We also received very helpful visitor information from the staff.
Cakes and pastries were served in the afternoon and hot canapés, salads and hors d'oeuvres in the evening. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, fruit, snacks and freshly baked cookies were available all day.
During our stay we managed to grab a few hours relaxing on the sun loungers around the stylish roof top pool.There were lots of soft, white, fluffy towels and bottles of water on hand for us to help ourselves to, and showers stocked with shampoos etc were close by.
Dining
There are many dining options including the old world Drake's Bar, in the style of a traditional English pub and the wine inspired Mediterranean cuisine of the Trapiche Room.
Casual fare and an American sports bar feel can be found at La Terraza Café and Bar.
We enjoyed the Marriott's magnificent breakfast buffet one morning – there was everything you could possibly want from delicious, freshly squeezed Florida orange juice to omelettes and eggs cooked to order, fruit salad, smoked salmon, cold and hot meats, cheeses, French toast, pancakes, breads – something to suit every taste.
There were even small, round hot donuts filled with nutella!
As you would expect from a top class hotel all the staff were friendly, helpful and knowledgeable.Nothing was too much trouble.
Being selected as one of the World's Best Business Hotels by Travel & Leisure Magazine comes as no surprise.
www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/miajw-jw-marriott-miami
AllWays somewhere to dine in Downtown Miami
The Seaspice Bar and Grille
By Ann Mealor
It was a hot Miami afternoon when we arrived at Seaspice.
Yet, situated on the Miami River, we found this chic restaurant cool in every way.
From the outside, it looked very much like one of the old waterside warehouses, but once inside it was a different story.
The reception area was minimalist, with a high ceiling, concrete floors, white walls and strangely enough, a playground swing – just waiting for a diner to put it to good use!
Eating alfresco
The hostess on reception, welcoming and elegantly dressed, took us to our table on the outside deck overlooking the river.
Although the day was hot, I preferred to eat outside and enjoy the sun, sitting in the shade in front of lots of cooling fans
It was a real pleasure to relax, sip a chilled Mangolini (prosecco and mango juice), watch the small boats go by and take in the views of Downtown Miami.
However, if dining inside is preferred, the modern garden restaurant, furnished floor to ceiling with wooden trees with palm like leaves provides a superb setting for the restaurants fine cuisine.
The Miami Spice lunch
We chose the Miami Spice Lunch, a special $23 three course menu that runs at a number of the city's fine restaurants throughout August and September.
This provides food lovers with a great opportunity to sample the local fine dining at a very reasonable price.
After tucking into some delicious, hot, garlic pitta style bread sprinkled with parmesan, I eagerly started on my first course, Coconut Thai Ceviche with Faroe Island salmon, lemon grass, cilantro and crispy garlic.
The salmon was juicy and went beautifully with the cubes of sweet, colourful mango.
The dish was very refreshing and beautifully presented in a large, black bowl.Ashley's cauliflower soup was delightfully light and frothy, with a subtle, delicate flavour.
Yellowtail Snapper with Florida avocado
For the main course, we both chose the Yellowtail Snapper with Florida avocado, ala huancaina sauce and cilantro.
The delicate snapper was fried in a light tempura batter, which complemented the spicy, creamy huancaina sauce and the crisp, fresh cilantro.
The flavours and textures blended together seamlessly.We enjoyed a chilled glass of Californian Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc with the fish, the wine recommended on the menu, and it paired really well with the meal.
Mouth-watering deserts
Fortunately the portions were just the right size to leave room for a mouth-watering dessert each: Tres Leches with strawberry and blueberry and goat's cheese mousse with honey glazed black mission figs and champagne sorbet.
My goat's cheese mousse looked glorious, presented between two, round thin crispy wafers with the figs and ice, white sorbet balanced on top with a brightly coloured pansy.
The Tres Leches (sponge soaked in whole, condensed and almond milk) was fabulous, rich but still light, working really well with the succulent fresh fruit.
Eating at the Seaspice was a truly memorable waterside dining experience which I look forward to repeating on my next Miami visit.
Elciel
By Ann Mealor
A joyous, culinary journey into unchartered, unexplored territory.
That was our dining experience at El Cielo.Meaning 'heaven' in Colombian, El Cielo is indeed a 'little piece of paradise' gloriously sited on the banks of the Miami River, in the city's downtown area
Cool and chic, an open kitchen and long white, marble cocktail bar, lit by flickering candles greeted us on arrival.
Fans gently whirred above and colourful cocktails were expertly shaken and stirred as we sat at the bar sipping prosecco whilst studying the menu and admiring the décor of Colombian wood, coral, orchids, ferns and quirky objets d'art.We decided onthe recommended 10 course tasting menu.
Attention to detail
The restaurant was buzzing with cheery diners.
The Linen napkins, which stand upright on our table, are held in position by small leather belts.I loved the attention to detail.
Our first course arrived – a white, chalky looking tablet, the size and shape of a soluble aspirin, regally presented in a mother-of-pearl shell.
The waiter poured warm water over it, but before we could tuck in, our aspirin metamporphasisedinto a warm, hot cloth with which to wipe our hands.
Full of surprises
Our meal continued to be full of surprises!
Each course had a history to it, a little piece of Colombian tradition that the waiter explained.
Following our hot cloth, came the first edible course - delicious meatball croquettes and plantain and cheese mini pasties, served on a large glass platter with swirls of a mustard coloured pepper sauce and scattered dots of green jalapeño.
Colourful, tasty and earthy as we tucked in with our hands.
Next up was a small shot glass of foam into which the waiter carefully dripped a couple of drops of dark coffee – unusual but pleasant and unexpected.
Then came one of my favourite courses – the chocolate experience!
The waiter then poured warm, chocolate sauce over our fingers and palms which we then licked off.
It tasted delicious, and I felt as if I had just taken part in a food fight in a very sophisticated restaurant – it was a surreal moment!
Ashley also managed to slurp up surplus sauce from his bowl, and cover his face in chocolate at the same time, before the waiter cleansed our hands with warm water.It was a really fun and tasty experience.
Our waiter explained that our hands would be left with the aromas and memories of the Colombian jungle throughout our dining experience.
The Amazon Tree of Life
Next came a delicate and aromatic corn and coconut milk soup followed by the Amazon Tree of Life - a warm bread made with tapioca flour stuffed with a handcrafted Colombian cheese similar to mozzarella.
The flat bread was presented on a handmade dish of copper and Colombian wood, evoking the native spirits.
It came with a delicious dip, traditional 'hogao' of roasted tomato and coconut, that looked like a bowl of black dust or charcoal, but when the bread was dipped in, the spicy red tomato sauce lay hidden beneath.
A scrumptious work of art, as was each and every dish, including the Smoking Cow.
The waiter came to the table carrying a wooden platter covered by a huge glass dome filled with swirling smoke.
On putting the dish on the table, he lifted the lid and wafted the smoke in our faces so we could take in the spicy aromas.
The smoke dispersed to reveal two forks on the wooden plank, both holding sushi rice, one topped with a slither of tender fillet beef and the other with succulent smoked salmon.
Two tasty, Japanese bite sized morsels with drama in abundance!
A colourful dessert of lavender and vanilla ice cream in filou pastry cases with a crunchy crouton balanced on top was followed by a second – a platter of pink, violet and white icing sugar scattered with different sized boules and buttons of jelly, ice cream and mallow.
A fragrant pink rose petal to rub between the hands ended a delightful culinary cabaret.It was indeed a fabulous feast for all the senses.
Fooq's
By Ann Mealor
As we made our way to Fooq's for our first meal in Miami, I wasn't sure what to expect.
We seemed to be heading away from where I thought all the good restaurants should be into a dimly lit part of Miami's Arts and Entertainment District, where I thought none of the good restaurants could be.
However, I was proved wrong.
Tucked away in this 'up and coming' part of Miami is a gem of a restaurant, that lots of discerning diners already know about because on our arrival, Fooq's was buzzing.
Bijou and homely with an eclectic urban/rustic décor, we sat and enjoyed a glass of prosecco, on the house
Taking in the restaurant
This was enjoyed in the small library style seating area, while we waited for our table, and this gave us a chance to take in the restaurant.
Large, old warehouse style air vent pipes across the ceiling; a concrete floor; fifties style plastic chairs with colourful, comfy cushions; oak wooden tables and stylish bare light bulbs hanging down from long wires.
There was a huge wine rack the height of one of the cream painted walls; the menu written in white across a large mirror; flickering candles and the bright and busy open kitchen where Chef, Nicole Votano was hard at work.
It wasn't long before we were seated and eagerly scanning the menu.
Lina, our waitress for the evening, was extremely knowledgeable about the food on offer and told us the owner, David Foulquier was half French, half Persian, which had a big influence on the restaurant's cuisine.
A passion for local produce
She also said he was passionate about using locally grown, fresh produce.
First to arrive at our table were two delicious pieces of rustic bread from Zac's Bakery, topped with lavender spice goat's cheese, sea salt and a ripe fig. The lavender added a subtle sweetness to the dish.
We then tried the Crispy Honey Glazed Brussels Sprouts, served over a shaved vegetable and a green garlic yogurt sauce and Octopus a la Plancha, with olive oil poached potatoes, cherry tomatoes, grilled lemon, olive oil and zataar (middle eastern herbs).
The sprouts were absolutely delicious and were really enhanced by the mix of flavours- the crispiness of the sprouts contrasted nicely with the smooth yogurt.
The octopus was given a mouth tingling spicy kick by the zataar.
Next came the Trio of Jars – three individual glass kiln pots each filled with something tasty: dates, walnuts and sundried tomatoes; cheddar rubbed with espresso and lavender and spiced prosciutto and salami with fingers of lightly toasted bread.
The contents of these jars change daily so there is always something new for the diner to try.
I tucked into a house favourite, the Votano Meatballs (the Chef's speciality), ground brisket and Berkshire pork meatballs, San Marzano tomato sauce, Parmesan, basil and garlic toast to mop delicious juices.
The meat balls were large and succulent and the contents of the Trio of Jars unusual and taste bud tingling.
The appetisers at Fooq's make a great 'tapas' selection giving diners the opportunity to try a variety of different dishes.
However, we did keep enough room to sample two main courses.
I enjoyed the Duroc Berkshire Pork Tenderloin, on Yukon gold mashed potatoes, served with broccolini, crispy shallots and red wine reduction and Ashley had the Crisp Summer Salad, with radish, squash and courgette.
My pork was succulent and tender and the red wine reduction gave the dish an added richness.Ashley's salad was refreshing and crispy, leaving him ready for the final course.
I do not usually have enough room for dessert, but Ashley and I managed to share the Persian Sundae in a rose patterned, English china tea cup and saucer.
I had never tasted a Sundae like this one – saffron and rosewater gelato, shredded halva, roasted salted pistachios, pomegranate molasses, medjool dates and Valrhona chocolate pearls.
A culinary surprise in every spoonful
We were served two glasses of French white wine during the meal, expertly chosen by Lina – Trimbach, a Pinot Blanc from Alsace and Domaine Fourniere, a Sauvignon Blanc, from Sancerre.
Fooq's is an exciting dining experience for those who enjoy good food and want to try something edgy in eclectic surroundings.
The Golden Fig
By Ann Mealor
Situated in an uassuming part of downtown Miami, close to the quaint Mary Brickell Village is the Golden Fig.
We went for an early lunch before heading off to the Gulf Coast, so arrived there at 12 noon.
The restaurant was quiet, but by the time we left, an hour and a half later, there was not a table to be had – a testament to the quality of the place and the food it serves.
The restaurant gets its name from a native Florida tree, which provides valuable habitat and food for other species.
It is also a symbol of prosperity and sophistication which the restaurant reflects in its food and service.
A casual urban feel
The Golden Fig has a casual, urban warehouse feel with open pipework and bare stylish light bulbs suspended from the ceiling.
However, the dried herbs hanging in small bushels from the walls, the wooden tables and bar give it a rustic edge.
The restaurant prides itself on fresh, farmhouse cuisine.
All produce is bought as locally as possible and its origin stated on the menu:- Oyster Mushrooms from Signature Farms; Foie Gras Parfait from the Hudson Valley and Pork Belly from Cox Farms.
Farm to fork
The 'farm to fork' ethos is important here and our waitress was extremely knowledgeable about all the dishes available, explaining where the meat came from and how the animals were reared.
As I sipped a deliciously refreshing fermented tea leaf and ginger juice, and nibbled on complimentary homemade tortilla chips with an eggplant dip, I studied the menu.
I ordered the Florida Rock Shrimp (from Cape Canaveral) with grapefruit, avocado, hearts of palm and basil aioli.
Ashley went for the Tomato Gazpacho with bread from the local baker, Zac.
I loved the seafood/grapefruit combination with the fresh basil and Ashley's soup had a delicious, light creamy texture.
For mains, I chose the Flat-iron steak from Joyce Farms served with a béarnaise butter and a crisp side salad.
The steak was juicy, tender and cooked perfectly for me.
Ashley went for the Black Grouper from Florida Keys, served on a saffron couscous with vegetables and caper chimichurri which he thoroughly enjoyed.
We finished by sharing a Peach Cobbler with oat crumble and cinnamon ice cream, served piping hot in a small,cast iron pan. We both tucked in, and it was so tasty, we probably could have managed one each.
The menu changes on a seasonal basis and the food is prepared simply and to a high standard.
The relationship between chef and farmer is highly valued and that is shown in the quality of the Golden Fig's well crafted, regional cuisine.
Miami Spice
August and September (annually)
The hugely successful Miami Spice offers specially discounted three-course lunch and dinner menus in luxury and fine dining restaurants throughout the Greater Miami area.
All Miami Spice menus include an appetizer, entrée and dessert as part of the fixed price.
While in the Downtown area
Getting around
MiamiDowntown is a city that is and feels safe and can be enjoyed on foot.
However, this being Florida, there can be bouts of heavy rainfall during the summer months – when it may well also be very, very hot.
To take the strain of the old 'pegs' there are several public transport options.
The Metromover
This 4.4-mile electrically-powered, fully automated – and free - people mover system runs from 5am to midnight seven days a week with convenient stops through Downtown and Brickell.
The Metromover system has three lines and 21 stations, with cars arriving every 90 seconds in rush hour and every three minutes off-peak.
The trolley
The air-conditioned City of Miami trolley service makes three loops around Downtown with the trolleys running from 6am to 11 pm. every day except Sunday.
The Metrorail
The Metrorail system is a 25-mile elevated rapid transit system that provides service to Miami International Airport and runs through South Miami, Coral Gables and Downtown Miami.
Taxis
Cabs in the States can be expensive and, if you decide to book one, it is best to get an idea of the fare in advance.
There are a number of taxi cab fare calculating websites including : www.taxi-calculator.com/taxi-fare-miami.
The Big Bus
Finally, a fine way to get to know Downtown/Brickell, and indeed other Miami districts, is to is to take the Big Bus hop-on-hop-off tour.
With 40 or so stops and 24 or 48 hour tickets to choose from, the open top tours come with an invariably interesting commentary pointing out of Miami landmarks.
The Big Bus also allows you to go a little further afield with routes that take in Little Havana, Coconut Grove, Wynwood and South Beach
www.eng.bigbustours.com/miami/home
The Mary Brickell Village
The Mary Brickell Village is a very popular Downtown complex of bars and restaurants that draws workers from the surrounding offices.
Although the 'village' covers two blocks (the 9th and 10th Streets of Miami Avenue) the evening crowds spread throughout Brickell and along Miami Avenue, where more bars and restaurants are to be found.
www.marybrickellvillage.com
Bayside Marketplace
Bayside Marketplace, on the Bay, is another Downtown, predominantly night time, two-level entertainment complex which spreads around the marina.
A tourist hotspot, it features more than 150 retail outlets, bars, a food mall, with a string of local musicians bringing the place to life come evening time and at weekends.
Events and Festivals
Miami is a city of festivals and events.
It stages 18 film festivals annually in addition to Miami Film Month itself (June), which is part of a series of 'months' that include :