A short break in Maritime Greenwich and Greenwich Peninsula

We recently enjoyed a two-night, three-day break here that gave the time to really discover that part of the London Borough of Greenwich inscribed by UNESCO as the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site.

It also allowed us time to discover what is happening on the adjoining Greenwich Peninsula.

The Peninsula is perhaps understandably known as being home to The O2, and by many exclusively so.

It is, after all, the world's most popular entertainment venue with a staggering annual schedule of music concerts, sporting competition and comedy performances; any number of dining opportunities; ongoing activities and an outlet shopping mall with some 60 designer brands.

Come out at North Greenwich tube station and one is at the entrance to The O2, which is where most people are going to head.

But look just beyond The O2 and one finds a great deal more to enjoy at Greenwich Peninsula.

Our visit to Maritime Greenwich and Greenwich Peninsula  (See AllWays Traveller to Greenwich Pensinula) made me realise what I had been missing all these years.

An epitome of English artistic and scientific endeavour

The Maritime Greenwich area was inscribed a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in 1997.

Greenwich achieved this for its 'Outstanding Universal Value to the world because of a number of key attributes that together help tell the story of Britain at sea, and of world time-keeping, navigation and exploration'.

UNESCO recognised the buildings and the park within the World Heritage Site as 'symbolising English artistic and scientific endeavour in the 17th and 18th Centuries'.

On our short break, we decided to take in the major attractions within Maritime Greenwich.

These included the Royal Museums Greenwich, along with Old Royal Navy College, Greenwich Market and Greenwich Park, one of the Royal Parks.

Our stay would then allow us another day exploring Greenwich Peninsula.

The Royal Observatory

This is where Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian were first established.

And where visitors can straddle the line that divides the Eastern and Western Hemispheres, as almost everyone does (yes including Ann and myself).

It is one of London's iconic landmarks and has been the focal point for astronomical research and navigation since being established by King Charles II in 1675, with 350th anniversary celebrations throughout 2025.

The Prime Meridian, as I learnt listening to a fascinating guide at the Observatory, is the circle on the surface of the earth that passes through both poles and was used to unify global navigation, mapping, and establish a coordinated global time system.

Greenwich was chosen, in 1884, due to the dominance of British navigational charts and role in maritime navigation.

Visiting today, the original observatory building designed by Sir Christopher Wren, holds a fascinating museum detailing the history of timekeeping, astronomy and navigation.

The Time Ball on top of the Observatory drops daily at 13.00 as it has done since 1833 to help ships synchronise their clocks.

The Peter Harrison Planetarium shines images onto a domed ceiling that brings the solar system, stars and galaxies 'to life'.

https://www.rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory

Cutty Sark

Cutty Sark is one of the first things one sees when emerging from the Greenwich Foot Tunnel or arriving in the town by river.

Built in 1869 on the River Clyde, it was one of the last and fastest of the tea clippers that brought tea from China to Britain as quickly as possible.

Happily, the ship was rescued in 1954 and towed to Greenwich where she opened as a museum.

During its permanent berth here, Cutty Sark survived two serious fires before being completely restored and enhanced with the new state of the art museum that now encases it.

The introduction of steamships pushed Cutty Sark away from the lucrative tea route and she plied her trade in various parts of the world, and under different names, before falling into disrepair and looking set to be lost forever.

It makes for a truly fascinating couple of hours, during which one can get to experience the 'sights, sounds and smells of life and times on board' Cutty Sark during her heyday.

One can walk the main deck to see the ship's towering masts and rigging and to clamber up it on a new Rig Climb Experience.

Below deck there's the fully restored captain's cabin and crew quarters and cargo holds.

Equally important is the chance to talk to the 'oh so knowledgeable' volunteers who will happily answer the questions that add the final link in understanding why this magnificent ship was and is so important to Britain's maritime heritage.

We learnt, for example, that Cutty Sark took her name from a short nightgown, called a cutty sark, worn by the witch Nannie in Robert Burns' poem Tam o' Shanter.

Nannie is the figurehead that adorns the ship, even though witches were said to be unable to cross water.

https://www.rmg.co.uk/cutty-sark

The National Maritime Museum

The National Maritime Museum is one of the most interesting museums one could hope to find – and it's free.

Taking in its eight galleries, one can view one of the largest collections of maritime artifacts anywhere, with the focus firmly on Britain's naval history and maritime achievements.

There are any number of ship models along with maps, paintings, navigational instruments and manuscripts.

A very poignant part of a visit is in the Nelson, Navy and Nation Gallery, which displays personal items belonging to Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson.

Here is the uniform he was wearing when fatally wounded by a musket shot at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

Another memorable moment was gazing at the Baltic Exchange Memorial Glass, which was created to commemorate Exchange members killed during the First World War.

Originally part of a larger installation in the organisation's London headquarters, in 1992, a terrorist bomb exploded outside the Baltic Exchange, killing three people and injuring 91 others.

The National Maritime Museum wants us to 'discover epic stories of exploration and endeavour that have shaped our world today.

It achieves this and, being fully accessible, will fascinate and enthral visitors of all ages.

https://www.rmg.co.uk/national-maritime-museum

The Queen's House

The Queen's House is 'the jewel in the crown of Maritime Greenwich

And rightly so. The House, which is England's first classical building, was designed by Inigo Jones in the 17th century.

It was built in 1616 as a private retreat by Anne of Denmark, the queen consort of King James I of England.

It is said the King paid for its construction after accidently shooting Anne's dog.

The house, designed by Inigo Jones, is considered one of the first examples of classical Palladian architecture.

Unfortunately, Anne never saw her house completed She died in 1619, and it was Queen Henrietta Maria, the wife of King Charles I, who oversaw its completion in 1635.

Under Henrietta's patronage, the Queen's House became a 'House of Delights', with a painted ceiling by Italian artist Orazio Gentileschi and his daughter Artemisia.

Highlights include the Armada Portrait of Elizabeth I, painted to commemorate the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588, and those of Anne of Denmark and Queen Henrietta Maria.

There are also marine-themed artwork of seascapes, naval battles and Greenwich and the Thames with portraits of explorers and sailors.

Visiting the Queen's House today, for free, one finds it an art gallery containing over 450 artworks spanning centuries and reflecting its royal and maritime history with temporary exhibitions and artists' in residence.

https://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house

https://www.rmg.co.uk

The Old Royal Naval College

The centrepiece of Maritime Greenwich

Even on a cold December day, a walk through the grounds of the Old Royal Naval College was an imperative.

This riverfront area is the centrepiece of Maritime Greenwich, with a history that stretches back 600 years, when it was the site of the Tudor Greenwich Palace.

King Henry VIII was born at Greenwich Palace in 1491 and Queen Elizabeth I in 1533.

The iconic Baroque building that now stands on the site was designed by Sir Christopher Wren and is one of the finest examples of 17th and 18th-century architecture.

During its time it has been the Royal Hospital for Seamen and retirement home for sailors and a training facility for naval officers.

The grounds of the Old Royal Naval College are now open for everyone to enjoy, with cultural events, concerts and exhibitions being staged here throughout the year.

One of the best ways to appreciate the splendour and history of the Old Royal Naval College is on a guided tour.

While regular history tours take place at set times daily, and private tours also available, we opted for a truly fascinating tour that detailed how and when the buildings and grounds of Old Royal Naval College has been as a film location.

Although it may not always be recognised on screen, the College has provided a backdrop for countless films and TV features, for over a century and remains much in demand.

More recent examples include Les Misérables; Four Weddings and a Funeral; Pirates of the Caribbean; James Bond's Skyfall and Netflix's The Crown.

https://ornc.org/news/lights-camera-action/

The Painted Hall

Any visit to the Old Royal Naval College will lead you to the magnificent Painted Hall, heralded as the UK's Sistine Chapel.

It was designed by James Thornhill, between 1707 and 1726, and its stunning ceiling and walls painted by him.

The scenes celebrate British monarchy, naval power and maritime exploration, with the surfaces resplendent in striking images depicting 200 figures including kings, queens and mythological creatures.

Visiting the Painted Hall, after the National Maritime Museum, was another poignant experience, as it was here that Admiral Nelson lay in state following his death at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

His body had been preserved in a cask of brandy for transporting back to England and laying in the Painted Hall.

Thousands passed coffin before Nelson's body went by river to St. Paul's Cathedral for a state funeral in January 1806.

https://ornc.org/explore-whats-here/painted-hall/

https://ornc.org/

Greenwich Park

Greenwich Park, the oldest of London's enclosed Royal Parks offers tremendous views of the Thames and across the river to Canary Wharf and beyond.

One of the oldest of London's Royal Parks, it covers 183 acres and served as a hunting park for Henry VIII and has a number of 'veteran' trees, some of which are over 400 years old.

Lying on its side within the Park is Queen Elizabeth's Oak, which experts believe was originally planted in the 12th century.

The tree formed part of the grounds of the Palace of Placentia, home to the Tudor royal family, and Henry VIII is said to have danced around the tree with Anne Boleyn.

Their daughter Elizabeth I, after whom the tree is named, is said to have picnicked beneath its canopy or within its hollow trunk.

When the palace grounds became Greenwich Park, the hollow tree was used as a prison for criminals caught on the grounds.

The tree died in the 19th century but was left standing, partly supported by ivy.

It fell in a storm in June 1991 and has been left lying where it fell, protected by a fence and marked with a plaque.

Visitors to the Park will find a new café and learning centre and a bigger viewing platform at the General Wolfe Stature

Landscaping work to the slope has restored this area to original, Grand Ascent, steppe design.

https://www.royalparks.org.uk/visit/parks/greenwich-park/greenwich-park-revealed

Greenwich Market

Greenwich Market, founded by Royal Decree in 1700, is one of London's most historic – and popular.

The covered market has stalls laden with arts and crafts and antiques and bric-a-brac and is also the place for great street food

https://greenwichmarket.london

The InterContinental London - The O2

The InterContinental London - The O2 is chic, modern, stylish and right next to The O2 itself.

By Ann Mealor

It provides a great base for a short break to Maritime Greenwich and Greenwich Peninsula.

Easily accessible by tube, Docklands Light Railway and the scenic Uber Boat by Thames Clippers, the InterContinental London – The O2 is ideally placed for exploring Maritime Greenwich and Greenwich Peninsula.

https://iclondon-theo2.com/