AllWays Traveller Features
Return To The Greatest Mountains I Never Climbed
Some Of My travel Plans For 2021
In my 50s with a Body Mass Index (BMI) Close to 40, well and truly in the obese category, I have to say that the figures don't add up when I take them into the mountains. On the bigger mountains around the world that I've travelled to, it's fair to say that I've missed the top as many times as I've reached it. The thing is however, regardless of where I end up or turn around, there's a constant beauty around me, complete peace and moments of exhilaration and joy. For sure it's amazing to stand on top of the mountains but it's never any less to walk among them. So, as I look to the trips I have planned for the year ahead, and one I am contemplating, I am anticipating all the best that the mountains can bring to my life. It just so happens as well however that completing these trips would take me to almost all of the summits I have missed in the past 4 years. A re-match in every trip.
Annapurna Sanctuary Trek
As a beautiful sunrise spread across the mountains around us, I caught my breath and took my pictures of some of the world's highest mountains glowing in the newly risen sun. The pictures had been taken from outside my Tea House in the Himalayan Settlement of Ghoripani. We were a few hundred meters short of the summit of Poon Hill but a mix of fatigue and expected poor weather had contributed to our decision not to climb to the summit. At a height of 3,100m, the local Nepalese people do not believe Poon Hill is high enough to be called a mountain but it is certainly an amazing vantage point from which to look at the Annapurna Mountain Range towering above and around it. It is said that one of the best views of the Himalayas in Sunrise is that seen from this hill. Hence, I'm going back this year to reach that summit and get the sunrise in all it's glory.
Though covering the more extensive Annapurna Sanctuary Circuit towards the end of March and into April this year, the first 2 days will be a direct re-tracing of the steps I took in 2015 as we climb out of Birithanti to Uleri and then on to Ghorpiani. In the small hours of Day 3 we are due to start the day by making our way to the summit of Poon Hill. This will be the first of my re-matches in 2021 as I seek out the sunrise from the summit.
Monument To Those Who Have Died On Everest
Sitting at the end of the terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier on the main route to Everest lies a bridge and a teahouse at a place called Dugla. Moving from there in the direction of Everest, a steep rocky ascent is encountered which rises over 300m and at the top of which sits the prayer flags and monuments of the Chukpo Lari. Here, the climbers who have died on Everest are remembered.
I've always regretted never being able to take the time to experience the Chukpo Lari properly on my previous trip to Everest Base Camp in 2016. To stand and pray adding my words to the words pouring off the prayer flags to the heavens. To meet the memories, perhaps the souls, of those adventurers who sacrificed everything chasing their dreams. To share, at least in some small part, in their challenge and adventure. I'm returning to the Everest Base Camp Trek in April. Unlike 2016, I've now ascended through and over 5,000m three times. I've slept at 5,800m and reached a highest point of 6,140m. I'm older now and my knees are weaker but I know how to walk at these altitudes and my confidence is high. Hopefully these factors will make it possible for me to look around and take in the Chukpo Lari when I'm next there.
Kala Patthar
It is said that the best views of Everest can be seen from the summit of Kala Patthar, a distinctive black mountain which rises above Gorakshep some 3 miles short of Everest Base Camp. Though an ascent of Kala Patthar was an optional part of our Everest Base Camp Trek back in 2016, I opted against taking it. I felt I had barely made it back from Everest Base Camp the previous day, my oxygen saturation was below 70% and I was feeling weak and lethargic. Kumar, our lead guide, had recommended that I take on some electrolytes and head down the trail towards Pireche. Given how I was feeling, there was no argument from me.
We've actually scheduled an ascent to Kala Patthar the day before we head to Everest Base Camp on my coming trip. For me it is very important this time to make the top with enough light to take the pictures of Everest.
Mera Peak
Mera Peak is billed as the highest 'Trekking Peak' in the world. It stands at 6,476m above sea level high in the Himalayas in sight of Everest and many of the highest mountains in the world. The route we attempted was 16 days end to end trekking with almost a week at 5,000m or above and 3 days on the Mera Glacier roped together and using crampons. This was a bit more for serious climbers than tourists and I was terrified of it. Meeting the rest of the group in Kathmandu did nothing to alleviate my fears. They were a combination of young, fit and experienced mountaineers. I had started to fall behind by lunchtime on day 1 after a steep descent from Lukla. By the time we started to climb out of the valley in the afternoon, I was soon 30 mins behind the group with a dedicated Sherpa. I had already started to plan an early return to Kathmandu. By the time we reached Paiya at the top of the afternoon's climb, the main guide, Ang, assured me that I'd be ok to walk at my own pace and didn't need to keep up with the group. In the end, I completed all 16 days of the trek but missed the summit of Mera by 300 vertical meters. Ang had suggested I turn around at first light on summit day after we had climbed through the night from High Camp. I was at a height of 6,140m. As high as I've ever been.
In truth, we had all been hampered and slowed that night by a heavy fall of snow which had been dumped on the mountain while we stayed at High Camp. This meant the Sherpa's breaking trail through the deep snow and us doing the same if we went past anyone. It was slow and exhausting progress which ended with 4 of our group getting frostbite. My brother had turned around agonisingly close to the summit, clearly able to see the 5 of the group who reached the summit on their final 50m ascent. He has suggested we go back and try again this year. I haven't booked it, but I haven't ruled it out. If the world opens up and I get to stay on Everest Base Camp in April, I'm going to stand at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall and look up into it. Only then will I know whether I've still got what it takes to have another crack at Mera Peak.
Useful Links
Inspiration Through Adventure
Everest Base Camp Holidays & Expeditions, Nepal Base Camp Trek| Exodus
Annapurna Sanctuary Trek | Exodus
Location (Map)
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