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New Zealand’s Paparoa Track

20201024_075827-1536x1152 Setting off for the track.

The rugged west coast of New Zealand's South Island draws travellers in search of the country's wild heart and a new three-day hiking or two-day biking trail will show it at its wildest.

The Paparoa Track is New Zealand's 10th and newest Great Walk and hikers will experience the Pororari River Gorge, towering limestone cliffs, remnants from the region's mining history and ever-changing forest that transforms from beech to rainforest, studded with nīkau palms.


Māori for "long place", the Paparoa mountain range looks out over the South Island's dramatic west coast, punctuated by peaks and threaded with rivers. The trail offers breathtaking views that change with the seasons. There are steep sections, particularly challenging in rain, but the rewards make the slog an afterthought. Highlights include the Lone Hand rock outcropping on the north side of the Pororari River, the Pororari River Gorge, which is dotted with swimming holes, and the ridgetop vistas that extend from the Southern Alps to the Tasman Sea.

Moonlight Tops hut

Your walk will begin on the Croesus Track, which, after about 20km, reaches the newly constructed Moonlight Tops Hut. With views across the Punakaiki River to the Pike Stream escarpment and off to the Tasman Sea, the 20-bunk hut will make you feel on top of the world – especially at sunset. With mattresses, running water, toilets, gas cookers and heating, the hut will feel as satisfying as checking into a five-star hotel after a long tramp through the wilderness. Bookings are essential year-round.

Rich seams of mining history

The west coast was built on precious resources, from the sacred pounamu (greenstone) that Māori would trek here to collect, to the gold found in the 1860s to the coal mined more recently. From gold-rush relics along the Croesus Track to the old coal mine at the end of the Pike29 Memorial Track, you'll find reminders of the area's mining history all around you. Interpretive signs explain the region's roots along the way.

A wealth of wildlife

Paparoa National Park covers about 38,000ha. The Paparoa Wildlife Trust works with the Department of Conservation to make it a haven for some of New Zealand's most vulnerable species. With networks of traps to control predators and a 12.5ha kiwi creche, there's a strong chance visitors will hear – or even see – roroa (great spotted kiwi). Other birds unique to New Zealand that live around these parts include the ruru (native owl), korimako (bellbird), kereru (pigeon), whio (blue duck) and tūī. It's a good idea to carry a pocket guide to birds, or even download an app that recognises bird calls.

Getting to the Paparoa Track

The Paparoa Track starts near Blackball (Smoke-ho car park) and emerges at Punakaiki (Pororari River car park). The ideal time to walk is between September and May, but check the weather forecast before setting out. At 55km from end to end the hiking trail takes three days to complete. It's also open to mountain bikers who should be able to complete the trail in two days. 

Greymouth is the nearest town to both the start and finish of the track. From Christchurch, on the east coast, take the spectacular TranzAlpine scenic rail journey through the Southern Alps, and pick up a rental car from Greymouth Railway Station. Blackball is 24km (25 minutes driving time) from Greymouth and Punakaiki is 45km (40 minutes driving).

The road between Greymouth and Westport - known as The Great Coast Road - has been lauded by Lonely Planet as one of the top 10 coastal drives in the world. It's a 90-minute drive but well worth taking much more time to appreciate the many natural features.

There is also a range of shuttle services and tours for travellers who want to sit back and relax.

An add-on or standalone walk, the Pike29 Memorial Track, will be opened at a later date. It is an 11km hike one way and will stand as a tribute to the men who lost their lives in the 2010 Pike River Mine disaster.



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The Greek island of Aegina
Lesser-known Greek villages and islands

Contact info

 

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