Nuremberg embraces its future and its past
The German city of Nuremberg, which is the cultural hub of Bavaria's Franconia region, boasts an illustrious heritage stretching back hundreds of years.
It is, however, Nuremberg's association with Adolf Hitler's National Socialists (Nazis), during a 22-year period in the 20th Century, that projected the city around the world.
The arrogantly grandiose Nuremberg Rallies; the antisemitic and racist Nuremberg Laws and, ultimately, the Nuremberg Trials that brought retribution for least some of the Third Reich's top tier have marked the city until today.
In 1945, Nuremberg was all but destroyed by heavy Allied bombing, but it has emerged from those wartime ashes as a vibrant, dynamic and forward-looking city.While not shying away from those dark days, when Nuremberg's historic status was exploited by the Nazis, the city now fosters an open and all-embracing culture that would be anathema to the National Socialists.
Nuremberg today offers a hugely rewarding city-break destination in its own right while also providing the chance to reflect on the devastating consequences of tyrannical rule, wherever it emerges.
https://tourismus.nuernberg.de/en/
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Nuremberg offers much more than historical reflection
When planning our trip to Nuremberg it was always likely our thoughts would lead us to the city's link with Germany's relatively brief but globally catastrophic period of National Socialism.
Adolf Hitler and his Nazis exploited the city's medieval status as a heart of the old Holy Roman Empire to forge a symbolic link between and his own aspirations for the Third Reich.
Nuremberg was a 'hot-bed' of initial political support for the National Socialists.
The city had also been the focus for the medieval Reichstag, or imperial assemblies, which Hitler saw as a benchmark for parades glorifying his own extreme view of the Germans as an 'Arian race'.
Finally, Nuremberg's location in the middle of Germany, and with good transport links, made it accessible for the many thousands of supporters he wanted to bring here for his Rallies.
First staged in 1923 they became annual September events which, between 1933 and 1938, were massive propaganda events held on purpose-built grounds.
Hitler enacted his Nuremberg Laws during a special session of the Reichstag at the September 1935 Rally.
These stripped Jews of German citizenship; banned marriages and sexual relations between Jews and German citizens and prohibited Jewish households from employing German women under the age of 45.
A couple of months later the law was extended to include 'Gypsies, Negroes and their bastards', classifying them with Jews as 'enemies of the race-based state.
There is a direct line of consequence between these laws and the setting up of the 'death-camps'.
And finally, the Nuremberg Trials of 1945 brought to justice those of the Nazi hierarchy still alive and able to be brough to account for their 'crimes against humanity'.
A city offering so much more
Having now had the chance to spend a five-night city break to Nuremberg, Ann and I have discovered a city that offers so much more.
And so, while the city's link with Adolf Hitler and the Nazis is going to be on the agenda for any visit, there is much else to understand and appreciate about Nuremberg's place in European history.
And to discover the Nuremberg that has emerged rejuvenated and enlightened from the Allied bombing that destroyed almost 90% of the city.
Heritage stretching back centuries
Nuremberg first came to prominence as early as 1050, when a flourishing settlement emerged to service and receive protection from the Imperial Castle built between 1138 and 1154.
The city was granted independence in 1219 and became a vital trading and craft centre of the Holy Roman Empire.
By the 15th Century, Nuremberg was exploiting its position as an intersection of the key overland trade routes.
Herbs, spices and other exotic goods would pass through the city on their way destinations throughout Europe.
This brought wealth and status for its citizens, and by 1500 Nuremberg was a thriving centre for art and science and an had established an association with painter Albrecht Dürer.
Sausages, gingerbread and beer
It also enabled the city to claim rightful ownership of its own distinct sausage and gingerbread along with red beer.
The Nürnberger Rostbratwurst
The Nürnberger Rostbratwurst is small pork sausage made with marjoram seasoning and to a proscribed recipe dating back to the Middle Ages.
It is the first sausage to receive the EU's Protected Geographical Indication stating the Nuremberg sausage must be made within the city limits and in strict accordance with an official and traditional recipe.
For the chance to enjoy the best Nürnberger Rostbratwurst, in the city's oldest bratwurtz kitchenget along to Zum Gulden Stern (see Ann's review by downloading your fulll version of the AllWays leading to Nuremberg below).
Nuremberg Bratwurst Museum
In addition to eating them, the small but fascinating Nuremberg Bratwurst Museum will tell you all you are ever likely to know about what is the smallest and most well-known of all the bratwurst sausages.
https://museen-in-bayern.de/en/museums/museum-details/nuernberger-bratwurstmuseum
Nürnberger Lebkuchen
As for the Nuremberg gingerbread, or Nürnberger Lebkuchen, this originated in the 14th century.
The dense, moist delicacy was possible because, as a trading hub, the city bakers had ready access to the spices needed to produce the finest gingerbread, which today is also protected by EU Law.
Wicklein in the Hauptmarkt. (Market Square) make their gingerbread to the centuries old recipe and also run gingerbread workshops that are great fun (see below).
https://wicklein.de/en/genusswel
Nuremberg's Rotbier
Nuremberg's signature beer is Rotbier (Red Beer), a historic bottom-fermented copper-red lager brewed in the city since the Middle Ages, again under strict local purity laws.
The city still brews its beer, to a strict recipe and with local ingredients stipulated by laws laid down in 1303.
As someone not eating meat, I took Ann's word that Nuremberg sausages are delicious.
As someone who hates the taste of beer, she nodded when I said the beer is really good.
We both loved the gingerbread.
A link to the past
Nuremberg's sausage, gingerbread and beer provide a tangible, and delicious, direct link to its illustrious heritage.
For this is a city that had to rebuild, literally from the ground up, following the unconditional capitulation of Nazi Germany in May 1945.
As a major centre of industry, it was a target for Allied bombing, with a devastating raid in January 1945 leaving the medieval old town in ruins.
In planning the post-war reconstruction of this heart of the city, the authorities decided against replicating the old town 'like for like'.
They chose instead to retain the existing medieval street layout and restore the historical landmarks.
These included the Imperial Castle of Nuremberg; the resplendent Gothic churches of St Sebaldus and St Lawrence Castle and the 15th Century Albrect Durer House.
The magnificent replica of the 14th Century Schöner Brunnen or Beautiful Fountain, which was clad in concrete during the war survived and remains the stunning focal point of Market Square.
And while thousands of timber framed houses were lost during the blitz of 1945, these have been replaced with buildings that adhere to the dimensions of the original properties.
The result is a modern, bustling and vibrant city that remains true to its Medieval roots.
So many dining options
Nuremberg also offers the widest and finest range of dining one could possibly wish for.
(Download the full version of your AllWays leading to Nuremberg to read all of Ann's restaurant reviews.)
While Nuremberg is a great city break destination, it also offers the chance to reflect on the devastating global impact of Germany under the control of Adolf Hitler and the National Socialists.
As such a visit to the Documentation Centre and its exhibition on the Nuremberg rallies held during' Reich Party Congress is a must.
As is getting to the Memorium Nuremberg to see the courthouse used for the Nuremberg Trials.
Exploring the Nuremberg of today, and eminently walkable city, before delving into its links with the National Socialists.
Do so and you will find a city as welcoming and rewarding as any with the chance to understand why and how it got to where it is today.
Hotel Elch is one of Europe's oldest hostelries
Hotel Elch (Elk in English, the owner is Finnish) is found in the heart of the quaint, historic Wine Market neighbourhood, close to Sebald Church.
As such it is within easy walking distance of bars, restaurants and all the beautiful sites a visitor would want to see on a short visit to Nuremberg.
(Download your version of AllWays leading to Nuremberg to read Ann's review of the hotel.)
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