The North Devon coastline takes in some 66 square miles of designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
This mainly coastal landscape stretches from around the traditional seaside resort of Ilfracombe to the Hartland Peninsula.
The area also takes in a long stretch of the South West Coast Path.
This is England's longest, long-distance, footpath and an official National Trail that winds 630 miles from Minehead in Somerset and along the Devon and Cornwall coastlines, to Poole Harbour in Dorset.
As such, North Devon offers dramatic cliffs and rocky coves, laced with long stretches of sandy beaches and undulating dunes.
There are also any number of untouched villages and small market towns offering a wide choice of accommodation and 'wining and dining', with an emphasis on locally sourced produce.
www.visitdevon.co.uk/northdevon/
Devon never ceases to deliver and delight
Devon has become our 'go-to' short break destination that we know we are going to one-hundred percent enjoy.
By Ashley Gibbins
In fact, we would be happy to spend a two-week vacation in 'Glorious Devon', as it has long been known.
But the county being under four and a half hours drive from London, out of the peak holiday seasons and providing no hold up's on the M's 4 an 5, means one can easily 'nip-on-and-out' for three or four nights.
We had already discovered East Devon and the South Hams on previous trips, and this time we bolted four nights in North Devon onto the back of a short city break in Bath.
AllWays Travellers to all three are available.
Natural beauty
North Devon has so much to offer, taking in designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and a stretch of the South West Coast Path.
There is the UNESCO-protected Braunton Burrows Biosphere Reserve and all three indicate how ecologically and environmentally important this area is.
To make the most of a trip to North Devon, I would suggest hugging the coastline, as we did on this trip.
We took in Ilfracombe, a thriving fishing port and traditional seaside town, andClovelly, a privately owned village that has remained almost unchanged since it was first brought to public attention in Westward Ho!
We also managed to get to Hartland Abbey and the nearby bracing Hartland point.
And finally, were able to spend much time ambling the grand expanse that is Saunton Sands and the adjoining dunes.
Our stay in the Saunton Sands Hotel, allowed us to make the most of the beach, along with the surfers, wild swimmers, dog walkers and young rock pool explorers.
Finally, we also managed to spend another couple of nights at the Collective at Woolsery, which provided a truly memorable experience in its own right.
www.visitdevon.co.uk/northdevon/
www.northdevonbiosphere.org.uk
Food Drink Devon
Food Drink Devon is a Community Interest Company that represents over 350 of Devon's leading food and drink producers, retailers, hospitality venues and related businesses.
It works to raise Devon's culinary profile, nationally and internationally, by highlighting those that serve up the best produce from the county as a whole.
Look out for the green heart logo which is carried by Food Drink Devon producers across the county.
Saunton Sands Beach
Saunton Sands Beach, a glorious three-mile stretch of sand, leads onto the UNESCO Braunton Burrows Biosphere Reserve.
The view of the beach, from the Saunton Sands Hotel, was our first glimpse of the North Devon coastline, and it was stunning.
The beach itself, which is dog friendly year-round, is a great place for long leisurely walks, while the tidal range of 8.5m with long, slow waves make it one of the UK's best surfing locations.
It is also popular with wild swimmers, who can be seen braving the waves, even early morning and on bitterly cold days.
Being fortunate enough to be staying at the Saunton Sands Hotel (see Ann's review below), a morning and evening stroll along the beach became de rigueur.
I resisted the (fleeting) temptation to go into the water.
The bioreserve
The North Devon Biosphere, which is centred on Braunton Burrows, covers 55 square miles and is England's largest sand dune system.
We managed to take an invigorating walk through the sand dune system with John Ward.
John also provided information on the plant species such as, rare orchids, and the crucial role the Braunton Burrows and the North Devon coast played during the preparations to the D-Day Normandy landings of the Second World War.
There was the chance to see mock landing craft, pill boxes, a bazooka firing range and the rusting hulk of Matilda the tank.
Even the torrential downpour that hit us as we were walking back added to the experience.
John is the founder of Exploring North Devon and Exmoor and offers a range of guided walks in this stunning and often wild part of the UK's West Country. (
www.northdevonbiosphere.org.uk/braunton-burrows.html
Clovelly makes the effort a real pleasure
Clovelly, a privately owned, vehicle-free, harbour village, is probably the one 'must do for visitors' to North Devon.
From the hilltop car park and visitor centre entrance, the village cascades down the narrow, steep and winding cobbled streets to Clovelly Quay and its bay.
Although an undoubtedly strenuous walk down and back, most visitors take their time and make it without difficulty.
There are, however, a range of shops, cafes and the New Inn on route should a 'pit stop' be in order, and a land rover alternative if need.
Arriving at Clovelly Quay and its bay makes getting there so worth the while, a true picture postcard place, dominated by the Red Lion, an 18th Century Inn, on the quay and Clovelly's ancient harbour to gaze at.
Here since the 13th Century
The first quay was built here way back in the 13th century, with fleets of fishing boats venturing out into Bideford Bay to fish herring and mackerel.
Over the centuries the stone boulders quay was built, and fisherman's cottages built in gradual and meandering fashion up the hill.
The visitors arrive
Clovelly though remained isolated and rarely visited until the middle of the 19th century when Charles Kingsley set his Westward Ho! in and around the village.
The visitors began to come and continued to do so in greater numbers.
A village not a theme park
Now a major tourist attraction, Clovelly is not any sort of 'Disneyesque' theme park.
It is a living, thriving village thanks to its ownership by John Rous, who inherited Clovelly from his mother, and is in lineage of the Hamlyn family who have managed the village since 1738.
If this suggests some feudal style ownership, this is far from the case.
John took over stewardship of Clovelly, in the 1980s, and realised the village would need investment if it were to survive.
The solution was to charge the fee for entrance, which helped manage the numbers visiting as well as securing the funding need to undertake the day-to-day maintenance and repairs needed.
Visiting Clovelly, one is mingling with the residents, who all seem to have ingenious, individually designed, wooden sledges for towing household provisions to their homes.
Joss's homage to Clovelly
When visiting Clovelly, the first time, I recommend starting with the delightful film of the village, shown on loop, in the visitor centre.
Narrated by Joss Acland, some years ago now, it is a time capsule in its own right and a genuinely loving testimony of the village by the actor, who still lives in the Old Rectory here.
See Joss talking about his love for Clovelly : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sz3qYMXiEiY
The Fisherman's cottage
You should also take a look at the Fisherman's Cottage Museum, which is laid out as a Clovelly fisherman and his family lived in the 1930s.
Those still with the energy to do so can take a stretch of the South West Coast Path, which passes through Clovelly and offers brisk walks along a stretch of it.
The Clovelly donkey's
And don't miss the donkeys, that were at one time the mode of transport for villagers and tourists alike.
They now enjoy life alternating between stables and an adjoining field at the top of the village.
Finally, the walled Clovelly Court Gardens are a five-minute drive or a 10-minute walk from the visitor centre.
Clovelly Court Gardens
This has landscaped gardens and restored Victorian greenhouses, along with a range of fruits and vegetables grown here for the Red Lion Hotel.
Next to the walled garden is the Norman church of All Saints, which was begun in the 12th century on the site of an earlier timber building, with a north aisle added in the 14th Century.
Hartland Abbey : historic house and home
Hartland Abbey, which was built in 1157, is the lived-in family home of the Stucley family and has been in the family since 1539, when it became the last monastery in the country to be Dissolved by Henry VIII.
While staying at the truly unique Collective at Woolsery (see Ann's revie below), it was suggested we might like to take a look at Hartland Abbey, just down the road.
If the recommendation was lukewarm, we found the Abbey itself and absolute delight.
Our one gripe was that we only had a couple of hours to spend there when we could easily have enjoyed a visit three times the length.
The King made a gift of the Abbey to William Abbot, the Sergeant of his Wine Cellar at Hampton Court, and his descendants have remained there to this day.
As a result, the house is stocked with personal collections of pictures, furniture and porcelain from over many generations and with a genuine 'family home' feel that some historic houses opened to the public may lack.
The Document Exhibition, for example, was discovered here in the 1950's and has documents dating back to 1160.
Hartland Abbey is currently home to Sir Hugh and Lady Angela Stucley and their family and assorted pets, while peacocks roam the manicured lawns surrounding the Abbey itself.
Everyone made welcome
Hugh and Angela work tirelessly to make visitors as welcome as possible and, with the passionate group of volunteers on call, it all goes to make visiting this grand old house an interesting and undiluted pleasure.
The Abbey gardens
While the temptation is to meander through the Abbey itself, chatting to those volunteers in attendance, one should not miss taking the woodland walk to the gardens.
These are ablaze with camellias, azaleas and in season massed tulips, roses, and hydrangeas and the is the 18th Century Walled Gardens with rare plants, organically grown vegetables and fruit.
For the more active there is a walk down to the beach with views across to Lundy Island.
Having now been to Hartland Abbey, it is easy to see why it is so popular as a film location including being Enid Blyton's 'Malory Towers' for CBBC.
The Abbey also featured in the Netflix production Daphne du Maurier's 'Rebecca' and providing the perfect backdrop for an episode of the Antiques Road Show.
Staying a while
Finally, there are three holiday cottages available for those wanting to enjoy the Abbey, while using it as a base for touring this part of North Devon.
www.hartlandabbey.com/holiday-cottages/
Ilfracombe offers the best in a seaside resort
While Ilfracombe today is a traditional seaside town, there has been a port here since the 12th Century.
Tourists will likely gravitate towards the Promenade with its picturesque gardens, a take the circular stroll around Capstone Hill, with views of over the Bristol Channel to South Wales, before moving on to the Quay and bustling harbour flanked by pastel-coloured houses.
For beaches, the best option is to visit the Tunnels Beaches, which were hand carved in the 1820's and lead to sheltered beaches and tidal Victorian bathing pool.
One can also come across one of the many seasonal outdoor events that take place on the promenade.
The day we visited it was a Harley Davison gathering.
There is then the chance to walk up to St Nicholas Chapel on the top of Lantern Hill, built in 1361 and housing England's oldest working lighthouse.
The harbour itself, which offers great views over the towering cliffs that mark the start of Exmoor, is very much a working port with the fishing trawlers leaving and arriving back daily with their catch.
From her one can take a trip to Lundy Island one of several coastal cruises to spot seals, porpoises and the thousands of sea birds nesting on the cliffs.
The harbour is dominated by Verity, a stainless steel and bronze statue created by Damien Hirst and placed on loan to the town.
Back along the Quay, one finds a string of independent restaurants, cafes, tea gardens and pubs along with shops selling traditional seaside memorabilia.
There are also a number of excellent art galleries including The Pier Gallery, an independent gallery owned by four local artists.
Art on display and for sale includes prints and original paintings along with ceramics, glass and jewellery, has been created in and around Ilfracombe.
What makes a visit to The Pier Gallery is it is run by the artists themselves, so you will always find one of them there and happy to talk about the work on display.
Ilfracombe offers pleasantly enjoyable half day, particularly during fine weather.
Two great places to stay in North Devon
Saunton Sands Hotel : glamour from a bygone age
By Ann Mealor
This 1930s art deco Saunton Sands Hotel conjures up an era of sophisticated seaside glamour.
This is the place where fictional detective, Hercule Poirot might well have spent his summer vacation, sitting suited and booted on the terrace overlooking the sea and sand.
Enjoying afternoon tea and making polite conversation with society guests, his 'little grey cells' whirring, with his latest murder mystery.
The views are stunning
Situated in splendour at the top of the cliff, Saunton Sands Hotel is a white sugar cube of a building that has the most stunning views.
From the beach, one sees it standing in glimmering grandeur and acting as a landmark for walkers and hikers, beckoning the hospitality near at hand.
Once here, there is no need to leave if you are just looking for a relaxing break. Except of course to saunter down to the sands for a beach walk or paddle.
The Hotel has everything with top class dining, a luxury ocean view health spa and state of the art gym along with complimentary daily fitness classes such as Yoga and Pilates.
Paddle boarding and surfing are also available although many guests will opt for the comfortable lounges with lots of squishy velvet sofas to sink into with a daily paper, book or coffee.
There are heated outdoor and indoor pools with towels and sun loungers, a pretty garden and two excellent restaurants.
The perfect welcome
We pulled up after a long drive to be welcomed by the friendly and helpful reception team with a much-appreciated complimentary glass of prosecco!
Our room
Our cases were taken to our large and comfortable room, which had some nice 1930s art deco touches and came with dressing gowns, slippers, luxury toiletries and generous amounts of tea, coffee and biscuits.
Best of all was the sea view.
You just can't beat watching the hypnotic ebb and flow of the tide and gazing out to the horizon where sea meets sky and blends into one.
It soothes the soul and lifts the spirit.
Dining at Saunton Sands
Saunton Sands has two restaurants with the more casual Beachside Grill and the stylish Dining Room.
We were lucky enough to eat in both.
Beachside Grill
Overlooking the Atlantic, stop here, straight off the beach, for a light bite, or something more substantial such as a juicy burger, classic fish and chips, chosen by Ashley, or even a perfectly grilled steak with all the trimmings, which was enjoyed by me.
The atmosphere is lively and the menu has something for everyone including veggie, vegan, pescatarian, gluten free or chose from everything on the menu.
The 'paddock to plate ethos' reflects the high-quality and locally sourced food that is served.
If you fancy a drink, you can pop-in for a coffee, beer or cocktail and watch the sun go down from the terrace.
Well-behaved dogs are welcome.
The Dining Room
After a long afternoon walk on the beach, I had built up a healthy appetite and was looking forward to dinner in The Dining Room, a glamourous two AA Rosette restaurant.
Before going to our table, we had a drink in the lounge and perused Head Chef Mathias Oberg's interesting and creative menu.
There was plenty to choose from including local venison, fish from Devon and Cornwall and some delicious sounding vegetarian and vegan options.
As it was a balmy evening, we decided to eat outside on The Terrace, and watch the sunset on the horizon.
We had a spectacular view.As dusk approached the heaters were lit, their tall, flickering orange flames wrapping a cosy glow around us diners.
For starters, I had the seared scallops, with a satisfyingly crunchy peanut crumb, broad beans, and a zesty lemon confit. The dish was prettily decorated with delicate pea shoot tendrils.
Ashley's fillet of charred mackerel sat on a caper and olive ragu, scattered with feathery fresh dill and plump pickled raisins, and a boule of soft smoked pate nestled by its side.
For the main course, I went house speciality the Lundy Island Lobster Thermidor – tasty chunks of meat in a light butter sauce, easily removed from the shell, so no mess, served with hot and crispy French fries.
Simple and succulent
Ashley had the Cornish pan-fried cod, a chunky steak of flavour filled fish, complemented by a vivid radicchio and raspberry risotto and fresh herb salad.
Dessert was a fruity, creamy Eton Mess and 'memories of childhood' build your own, seaside sundae with a choice of fixings.Ice-cream at the beach has to be done!
Breakfast
Breakfast in The Dining Room is relaxing.
Toast, tea or coffee is brought to the table and then it's the buffet with a great selection of bacon, egg, sausage beans, mushrooms, tomatoes, cheese and cold meats, along with pastries, fresh fruit and cereal.
There's also a menu that offers smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, American style pancakes and good old porridge oats.
Whatever takes your fancy, this is the place to fill up for a day on the beach or the dunes.
Afternoon tea
This is the perfect place for a refined Afternoon Tea, and is a must, especially when one is in Devon, a home for this quintessentially British tradition.
At Saunton Sands you can enjoy rows of finely filled finger sandwiches, exquisite homemade cakes and oven-warm scones with proper clotted cream, jam and a selection of speciality teas.
Just sip, sit back and relax.
Source Spa
Source Spa, inspired by the Saunton beach, is the ideal place to completely unwind and rejuvenate.
As well as a tranquil, indoor pool and a wide range of beauty and wellness treatments, the Spa has a marine based, therapeutic Thermal Suite.
Overlooking the beach and sea, you can bathe in the mineral-rich Dead Sea saltwater of the Vitality Pool; inhale the clarifying pure salt vapour in the Steam Room and relax with a range of calming aromas in the Finnish Sauna.
You can then go for an invigorating splash in the monsoon shower and ice fountain.
Raising and cooling your body temperature relaxes aching muscles, cleanses and rejuvenates your skin, boosts the immune system and improves circulation.
Forty-five-minute daily sessions are included in the room rate.
For a grand coastal resort hotel, you are not going to find finer than Saunton Sands Hotel, particularly when you add in the location in glorious Devon.
The Collective at Woolsery : a find par excellence
By Ann Mealor
The village of Woolsery, which is also known as Woolfardisworthy, may be small but what can I say.
What a find!
The village has a quintessential corner shop, authentic chippy, rustic country pub and several restored country cottages pull together to offer heritage, gentle nostalgia and heart-warming homeliness.
It makes it impossible not to fall in love with the place.
No expense spared
This is, however, because the one-time dilapidated, neglected and all but forgotten buildings have been given a stunning new lease of life, with no expense spared, by their benefactor, Michael Birch.
Michael, a dotcom millionaire has strong family ties with Woolsery. His great, great grandparents built the village shop, his grandmother was born above it, and family members still live here.
As a young boy, Michael spent carefree summers in Woolsery with his Gran and enjoyed listening to her tales of village life.
It is these fond memories that have inspired such attentive and detailed restoration of first The Farmer's Arms then The Old Smithy as accommodation, followed by The J Andrew Shop & Post Office, the Woolsery Fish and Chips and a collection of guest cottages, rooms and suites.
Wulfheard Manor, a crumbling mansion, and a central feature of the village, is currently being renovated to the very highest standard.
When this has been achieved, it will open as a boutique hotel and high-end restaurant.
The Collective at Woolsery, captures the essence of the past and while looking forward in a joyful and sensitive way.
It is this that makes a stay such a pleasure.
The Old Smithy
We were lucky enough to stay in the recently refurbished Old Smithy.
A small, hobbit-like wooden door in the wall at the back of the pub's cottage garden marked the way through to our rooms and a prettily lit enclosed patio.
The Smithy itself, was quite amazingly impressive. Light, airy and spacious- cosily rustic, yet chicly modern.
It was a perfect fusion of past and present, with polished cement and stone floors, sumptuous fabrics, modern artwork, exposed beams.
There was a large brick-built fireplace with a wood burning stove, a cushion filled sofa and a state-of-the-art kitchen, which coffee machine baristas would be proud of.
The fridge was stocked with locally produced milk and soft drinks and there were bottles of regional gin and vodka on the sideboard along with a great selection of artisan chocolate, crisps and snacks.
There was also a welcome jar of homemade cookies in the kitchen.
The bedroom
A metal staircase led down to a stunning bedroom with a super king-size bed, wood stove with logs at the ready and a television that grandly rose-up on demand from the ottoman at the foot of the bed.
The elegant bathroom had a large free- standing tub and walk-in rain shower with lots of deliciously smelling Land and Water toiletries.
The bath robes were super-soft and fluffy and ideal for lounging in front of the open fire.
Modern technology included sonos speakers and a rako lighting system took some getting used to, but we got there in the end.
The whole place was perfectly designed for a luxury stay.
Breakfast
Breakfast was a real treat and delivered to our room each morning.
Our chosen dishes arrived in a traditional wicker picnic basket, and it was quite exciting opening it up to see what we had.
The nettle and ramson fritter, spiced fermented vegetables and soft poached eggs were a creative and pleasant change from the usual breakfast fare.
The dog rose honey and pistachio bun and sweet clover and vanilla yoghurt with toasted sunflower seeds were also a delicious departure from the norm.
All this, and freshly pressed apple and raspberry juice, made a great start to the day.
Dining at The Farmers Arms
Sunday Lunch
The Sunday lunch at the rustic Farmers Arms was, by far, the best I have eaten in any restaurant.
We had just completed a two-hour drive from Saunton Sands and as we pulled up to the Grade II listed former coaching inn, the sun came out, the temperature went up and we sat outside in the picturesque courtyard garden.
It was a three-course menu, starting with soup and a selection of snacks.
No sooner than we had sat down, then out came a medley of homemade crisps, light and crispy pork scratchings, a smooth chicken liver parfait topped with crunchy walnuts and pretty edible flowers.
There was a scrumptious carrot dip and a ceramic jug filled with a mouthwatering turnip, crab apple and rosemary soup.
I have never seen the like -it felt like a feast, and I loved it!
The main course didn't disappoint either. Generous slices of Exmoor beef brisket and Birch Farm pork served in a copper pan with roast potatoes, rainbow chard, whole carrots and Yorkshire Pudding.
There were separate little pots of cauliflower cheese and glossy, deep red, braised beetroot as well as jugs of hot gravy.
Ashley had the vegetarian option – stuffed marrow filled with the freshest of herbs and juiciest of tomatoes from Birch Farm.
We both tucked in!
The desserts, which were to share, didn't let the side down.
Slices of moorish chocolate brownie, a light custard tart topped with sweet, sugar-soaked strawberries, a caramelised rice pudding and a luxurious toffee topped, sticky date pudding.
We couldn't eat it all in one sitting, so the desserts were put in our fridge in The Old Smithy for later.
We enjoyed them that night, sat on the sofa with a glass of wine, recounting the day.
Dinner at The Farmers Arms
In the evening, The Farmer's Arms has the feel of a modern, stylish bistro, thanks to its subtle lighting and interior design.
As we perused the menu, I sipped a glass of Alsatian Riesling, recommended by our knowledgeable and friendly waiter while Ashley had one of the local beers.
We both chose the soup for starters, a herby, chunky turnip and apple broth topped with delicate edible flowers and crunchy, home-made sourdough bread and butter.
For mains it was the fish.
I had the crispy, charred, butterflied Cornish mackerel with a hearty and brightly coloured mussel, tomato and courgette stew.
Ashley had the perfectly cooked and simply prepared whole grilled plaice with sweet cicely and lemon thyme butter, new potatoes and salad.
We couldn't resist trying the desserts.
On our waiter's recommendation, I had the luscious caramelised clotted cream parfait, a decadent concoction of crunchy toasted hazelnuts, tangy blackcurrants and chunks of caramelised white chocolate.
By contrast, Ashley went for the almost healthy gooseberry trifle flavoured with pineapple weed, fig and lime leaf.
Executive Chef Ian Webber's puddings change with the seasons.
So, in summer it's creative trifles showcasing fruits and herbs grown in the Birch Farm greenhouses.
In autumn there's crisp tarts filled with the season's orchard and hedgerow fruits (served with proper custard) and winter has sticky steamed sponge and caramelised rice pudding on the menu.
Ian is committed to farm-to-table dining and almost all meat, fruits, vegetables and herbs the kitchen use come from Birch Farm.
He uses whatever is in season and his style of cooking is traditional farmhouse with a contemporary twist.
This result is flavour filled rustic dining at its best, that keeps you wanting more!
Taken together, a stay at The Collective at Woolsery is as unique as it is memorable as it is hugely rewarding.
Birch Farm
There is also the 150-acre Birch Farm that grows produce and rears a range of rare-heritage breeds for use in The Farmer's Arms restaurant.
The land is farmed in a similar way as to how it would have been done a century ago, creating a rich habitat and for wildlife, bees, other insects and small mammals.