Pikes Peak isn't a technical climb.
You don't need mountaineering gear, ropes, or ice axes. This is a
hike that can be accomplished by anyone in reasonable shape.
Don't get me wrong; it's not a little ramble. The hike to the Pikes Peak Summit is just over twelve
miles and 7,800 feet altitude gain, with most of the elevation gain over the first three miles of the
trail. An overnight stay at Barr Camp at 10,000 feet elevation provides welcome relief. The next
day the climb continues to the summit at 14,110 feet.
Barr Camp a Welcome Sight at 10,000 feet
We wanted a sunrise start, but our guide insisted that 9 am would be fine. Unfortunately, by the time
we did a pack shake-down, stopped to pick up some food for the trail, and parked our car, it was
pushing 11 am. The temperature was creeping up to 84 degrees by the time we got onto the trail.
The first section of the Barr Trail is steep with a series of switchbacks. People passed us in both
directions. Some in running attire, some just a bit faster than us... kids, teens, and families. The heat
was already getting to me. The sun was amplified by the shape of the surrounding terrain, a
parabola, focusing the rays back upon us. Heat is one of my personal complications on a hike like
this. My 60-year-old body was dripping in sweat, my t-shirt soaked through. My blood was beginning
to boil, not from solar radiation, but because of the late start caused by our guide.
You don't need a guide. Barr Trail is well marked and well-traveled. Barr Camp is 6.5 miles from the
trailhead, about halfway up. There's a cabin where you can spend the night or camp in its shadow.
We did the trip in two days, opting to spend the night at Barr.
It was an evening that provided not only respite from the day's efforts but home-cooked food –
spaghetti and meat sauce, garlic bread, and cookies. It was a chance to talk to other hikers and get a
feel for what our next day might bring.
Our overnight lodging in Barr Cabin is tight, cozy, warm, and restful
The accommodations were spartan, just rows of thin mattresses on an extended plywood platform. The
mattress seams and our sleeping bags were all that separated us from literally rubbing elbows with
each other. A small price to pay.
The path up was a mosaic of rocks, dry hardpack, and the occasional mud wallow as we crossed
some streams. A swath of pine needles cushioned our footfalls for a time as we traversed a pine
forest. Stopping along the way, we tried to get a glimpse of the summit. We were treated to a grand
vista at Lightning Point, where we could clearly see our goal.
The next day we got our early start. I was up at 4 am and stepped outside. The air was calm. It
smelled of balsam and campfire smoke. However, it was a clear night; the stars were overpowered
by the full moon casting shadows. We were too early for the prepared pancake breakfast, so we had
to settle for some tea and a bowl of quick oatmeal.
Barr Trail is an easy, non-technical hike. But, be prepared for the weather.
Our packs were organized for the range of weather we might encounter. That time of year, October,
we could have even gotten snow. Our kits included a hat, gloves, and a tri-climate jacket; it could
have rained, in fact, stormed, but it looked unlikely as we set out under the indigo of predawn. We
didn't carry tents, but we had bivvy sacks and sleeping bags. We weren't planning on spending the
night but were prepared to do so. One of the killers on Pikes Peak is hypothermia. People start out on
an 84-degree day like we did, dressed only in shorts, sneakers, and a t-shirt. The problem is, the
weather changes abruptly. Wet clothes suck the heat right out of you.
We left camp with the intention of reaching the summit before noon. The fall season is less likely to
bring thunderstorms, but they crop up in the afternoon when they do come in. A lightning strike is the
number one killer on Pikes Peak. Lightning often hits hikers on the way down as they try to beat
storms to the tree line.
Our second half started out at a relatively gentle, gradual grade. It got steeper and rockier as we made
our way up the switchbacks to the A-Frame. This shelter was put in place by the US Forest Service. It
was just a landmark for us, and we wouldn't be staying, but we could have used it in an emergency if
the weather turned.
The summit of Pikes Peak offers an incredible view.
It seemed like forever to go the additional three miles. It was steep and rocky. The air was thin. I
frequently stopped to catch my breath. Hikers above us outlined the switchbacks in endless zigzags. I
groaned at the effort. My knees burned, my breath came with deep inspirations as I tried to extract
the oxygen from the ever-diminishing air.
Soon a fifteen hundred foot drop over the edge focused my attention. Passing "The Cirque," the red
rocks seemed imposing and the top even farther away than before. I struggled up the 16 Golden
Stairs. I could see people at the top. They encouraged us to complete the top-out, and we were
greeted by the gift shop.
We posed for the obligatory photo next to the Summit Sign.
"Two tickets, please." The Cog Railway got us back to our car, which we had left at the bottom.
The cog railway gave an easy way up or down.
If You Go...
Where to Park
If you get there early in the morning, parking won't be a problem.
Don't park in the Cog Railway parking lot. Go past the Cog parking lot, take a right on Hydro Street, and a small pay lot is at the top. If that lot is full, go back and locate a legal parking spot along
Ruxton Avenue and walk back to the trailhead, which is adjacent to the parking lot. You can also
choose to park in a paid parking lot in Manitou Springs and take the free shuttle to the base of Barr
Trail.
What to Bring
Plenty of water - 2-4 liters
Food - You'll only need a light lunch and snacks if you're staying for dinner at Barr Camp
Tri-climate clothing – Even in the eighties at the trailhead, the temperatures can drop to the
thirties at the summit. Expect snow even in the summer, more during spring and fall. Rain gear is
essential as storms pop up unexpectedly, particularly during the summer months.
Sleeping bag if staying overnight.
What to expect
Altitude
Unless you live in the rarified atmosphere of places like the mile-high city of Denver, Colorado, you'll need to acclimatize your body to the effects of higher elevations. Manitou Springs is the jumping-off point for your trek up the mountain. It's at the height of 6,400 feet. If you're a flatlander, like me, you should plan on staying a couple of days at this altitude. When you first arrive, you may not notice the thin air. Do anything strenuous, and you may struggle for a breath.
Diamox - Acetazolamide is used to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. It should
be taken two days before you start the hike, and you should continue taking it during the trek. One
side effect is that it acts as a diuretic, increasing the frequency of urination, hence the need to drink
plenty of water.
Heat
As I stated in the opening, it can get unpleasantly hot in a very short time. You'll need to pace
yourself, stay hydrated, and use some of that water on your neck with a bandana to keep cool. Learn
the signs of heat exhaustion.
Hydration
There are no water sources along the way until you get to Barr Cabin at 10,000 feet. You'll need at
least two liters and maybe more. Water weighs eight pounds per gallon, so you're going to have to
figure that into your pack weight.
Pack Weight
Because of the need to carry tri-climate clothing and a sleeping bag, your pack can easily cross
twenty-five pounds with water, food, and minimal shelter. Adjust accordingly and do a pack
shake-down before you leave. Even if you're used to carrying more weight, remember -- the air gets
thinner, especially above the 10,000-foot mark. The elevation at the summit is 14,110 feet. Every
pound counts.
Other Information
• Important Cog Railway Information - If you plan to use the train as part of your journey.
• Important Pikes Peak Toll Road Information - If you plan to use the toll road as part of your
journey.
Knowledge of the trail and safe hiking on it comes from my personal experience on the Barr Trail.
Useful links
https://www.cograilway.com/