John Masefield's poem "Sea Fever" is inspirational in stirring the imagination in extolling the virtues of the call of the sea and specifically its romanticism of sailing on a Tallship.

Being inspired is one thing, taking the opportunity to sail on a Tallship is another.

This brings to the fore the Jubilee Sailing Trust's (JST) Tallship "Tenacious" undertaking a circumnavigation of the World.

Tenacious is no ordinary Tallship, as along with the JST's other sailing vessel "Lord Nelson", they are the only wooden built Tallship vessels designed to accommodate and be fully accessible to people with disabilities.

A few examples of such additional design criteria are: the hydraulic lifts, wide companionways to accommodate wheelchairs, option of joystick steering for those with limited hand dexterity (an alternative to the conventional steering wheel) and a speaking Compass for those with sight impairment.

The buddy-buddy system

The Tenacious has a maximum compliment of forty-nine personnel made up of nine permanent crew and forty voyage crew-a number being professional volunteers who are also accommodated.

The vessel operates a buddy-buddy system ensuring engagement and support for all its crew with the onus much on teamwork.

As is the JST ethos, a number of the trainee crew are of mixed physical disabilities, with it being assured that there is a role for all personnel onboard, challenging and testing as that may be.

Scheduled to sign on as Chief Engineer, raising the expectant question of Engineers on a sailing ship?

Below decks there is certain machinery that ensures comfort and that life support is maintained: propulsion engines when the occasion requires, diesel generators, utilities (freshwater generation, HVAC, lighting, sewage system, fire pumps, navigational equipment, etc.).

An additional requirement was for the Engine Department (composed of the Chief and Second Engineer) was to run the on-board Bar).

Taking in the Falklands and Cape Town

The scheduled six week trip was to include the Ports of call of: The Falkland Islands, South Georgia, Tristan Da Cunha and Cape Town.

So the journey begins in earnest, leaving Taunton in Somerset bound for RAF Brize Norton, to join the South Atlantic Air Bridge to the Falkland Islands where Tenacious having recently, having passed around Cape Horn, was heading for Stanley as her next Port of Call.

The Royal Air Force (RAF) runs two "Airbridge" flights a week to the Mount Pleasant Airbase in the East Falkland Island, with a stop off at Ascension Island or the Azores.

As the flight is undertaken by the RAF, a dispensation is sourced for the crew members joining and those returning from Tenacious.

Initially one had visions of being in a cargo hold secured in place by webbing in makeshift seats.

Apprehension dispelled when it proved to be much akin to a commercial airline flight, comfortable seating and a good standard of hospitality-for an overall flying time of 18 hours there was much to be commended.

On arriving at Mount Pleasant Airbase, the need is to clear Customs and head to Stanley.

The distance between Mount Pleasant and Stanley is in excess of 30 miles and it gives one the opportunity to assess the initial impressions of the Falklands topography.

Much akin to the Shetlands

The resemblance was much akin to the Shetlands, predominately moorland, little or no trees, mountainous in parts with an abundance of wildlife, though much of the Falklands economy is based of sheep farming and fishing.

The roads are predominately tracks in the hinterland with tarmacked roads in Stanley, (though at the time of arrival, the Stanley to Mount Pleasant Road was in the process of being tarmacked)-hence four tracked vehicles are the dominant mode of transportation on the islands.

It was an overnight stay in Lookout Lodge prior to joining the vessel which gave the opportunity to meet some of the joining crew members.

There proved to be a good cross section of age groups from various walks of life-very cosmopolitan, eclectic, and of various nationalities.

Arriving via Cape Horn

Next day it was down to the jetty where Tenacious had duly arrived earlier in the morning, having sailed round Cape Horn.

Much activity as could be expected with the changing of crew, customs and immigration clearance, organising stores and bunkering.

Added to this, was a reception organised by the Governor of the Falklands, Mr. Nigel Phillips, to which the crew of Tenacious were invited-a very convivial affair where the crew members act as Ambassadors for the JST.

Shakedown and the four watches

The following day onboard begins with the shakedown and organisation into the four Watches which will be maintained for the voyage.

The Watches are then briefed on their duties and responsibilities.

One interesting observation is that it can be very tribal, yet all very supportive and cohesive overall, especially noticeable as the voyage progressed.

Skip Novak

Of note, there was Skip Novak, who was employed by the JST to undertake lectures and activities in relation to the voyage Ports of Call-Skip having spent a number of years sailing the South Atlantic, exploring Antarctica and its southern reaches (in addition, having been in four Whitbread

Round the World Yacht races, his sailing abilities and knowledge were also a welcome addition to the vessel).

The day was taken up with familiarisation training and drills- "learning the ropes", with safety of personnel being of the highest priority.

Issuance of cold weather gear, safety harnesses, etc. also being accommodated. In the evening, an "Icebreaker" party is held, where the personnel get to know each other in a warm, convivial and relaxed atmosphere.

Falkland Islands Wildlife

A number of tours had been arranged by the vessel with much of the focus being on the Falkland Islands Wildlife: the Penguin Colonies, Seals, Whales, Albatrosses, Petrels, etc.

The 1982 Falklands War (where Britain faced off against Argentina) had resulted in a number of memorials erected at various locations around East Falkland which people wished to visit to pay their respects.

The vessel with the exertions of rounding Cape Horn was also in need of maintenance, one critical requirement being the renewing a number of Mast stays.

No rest for the wicked, this cruise was to be a "worked passage".

This delayed maintenance stopover afforded the opportunity to undertake a number of organised and informal tours, allowing the opportunity to avail one's self of the islands pristine beauty and the abundant wildlife.

Popular were the visits to the Penguin colonies where the King, Magellanic, Gentoo and Rockhopper Penguins were in residence, whilst the Elephant seals and Sealions were also a draw in their natural habitat.

The Falklands are also a maritime graveyard for a number of shipwrecks, many of which are still visible (one that was salvaged locally was Isambard Kingdom Brunel's "S.S. Great Britain" which has now been lovingly restored to her original status in her home Port of Bristol).

Back to the running of the vessel, numerous activities, running hand in hand with maintenance is the continuing familiarisation and training, along with watch duties, storing of the vessel, lectures, classes and free time.

All shipshape and Bristol fashion

The term "All shipshape and Bristol Fashion" is applicable to the Tenacious, where "Happy Hours" are employed in the cleaning of the vessel where all hands take part.

Practical skills as regards seamanship (setting/trimming sails-manning the yards, knots/splicing, sailing skills, etc.), navigation, taking sights, steering, chart work, basic metrology, Galley duties (where the keen Cooks do have the opportunity to show off their skills).

Sharing experiences, presentations, planning expeditions, "making one's own entertainment" which may be by musical interludes, presentations, quiz nights, theme nights, maintaining blogs, etc., is much to the fore in the social life onboard.

The end of journey auction

Of special mention is The end of Journey "Auction", a party night where the vessel's various paraphernalia, charts, and the voyage "Red Duster" are auctioned off.

All this generates great interest and additional funds for the JST.

People make places and to appreciate the good, one has to have a yardstick, in experiencing the bad, hence the mood of the seas and weather can change, never more so than in the South Atlantic where one can have "Four Seasons in one Day".

The thrill of the chill, the warmth of the sun as it permeates the body, the sea breezes, the fresh crisp air and the indescribable beauty of the sunsets and dawns that stir the imagination-the isolation of the far side of the World, which is very much a sanctuary for wildlife.

Night watches can be magnificent

The night watches can be the most magnificent of times, the mood and atmosphere as the sound of sea washing against the hull, the diminutive creaking of the vessel, even to what is termed the "Graveyard Watch" (12 midnight to 4 a.m.), the solitude and isolation can be most profound.

Even best of all, as one looks up through the rigging, with the masts drawing arcs in the night sky, there portrayed in all its magnificent celestial jewelled beauty are theheavenly bodies and constellations, The Southern Cross, Orion, Betelgeuse , Rigel, Sirius burning bright with Jupiter low on the horizon.

Along our way the pelagic birds, the Albatrosses, Petrels, and Shearwaters are our constant companions, in search of the krill in the vessel's wake (as Tenacious ploughs a furrow through the seas).

Transiting the Scotia Sea

Transiting the Scotia Sea and then crossing the Antarctic convergence, it is a heavy stormy affair with white capped waves, chilled, wet and windy, with more than a few crew suffering from mal de mer onboard.

There are also a number of Icebergs to be viewed.

South Georgia

After five days, as dawn breaks, the island of South Georgia emerges from the gloom.

The he scenic impression is of a Witch's cauldron, a maelstrom mix of undulating seas, overcast leaden skies, with a thin veil of sea mist haunting the distant shore.

In the East, an orange sunrise casts a silhouette against a background of snow-capped mountains, glaciers and glacial scarred rock, all quite magnificent, atmospheric and so surreal to the naked eye. As the vessel closes in on the Island the sea state abates

South Georgia, yet unknown to all, proves to be the highlight of the voyage.

Salvation and sanctuary await the vessel at King Edward Point where the British Antarctic Surveyhave a base, fully visible from here across King Edward Cove is Grytviken, an old Whaling Station which has been subject to renovation, replete with Museum, Whalers Church and Post Office.

Our arrival is welcomed by a myriad of young seal pups showing off their acrobatic affinity for the water. On land the tendency is to conceal themselves in the surrounding Tussock Grass.

South Georgia stirs the imagination as it is the resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton, one of the last of the romantic Antarctic Explorers.

His venture on the vessel "Endurance" as told in his book "South", where trapped in the ice in the Weddell Sea, the life is crushed out of the "Endurance".

This then forces his crew to live on ice flows, then taking to Lifeboats for a five day journey to reach Elephant Island.

The do or die 800 mile voyage is undertaken to South Georgia in the Lifeboat James Caird to save his crew (a life size model of the Lifeboat Jame Caird is in Grytviken-takes one's breath away-quite incredible that six men survived a journey of 800 miles in 16 days in storm tossed Antarctic seas to reach South Georgia).

All stirring stuff, with Shackleton eventually rescuing all his crew, with in no loss of life, especially in light of the hardships endured.

Landfall of South Georgia.

Skip Novak had been busily putting together an itinerary of walking tours for the crew, looking at the history, topography, environmental and wildlife aspects of the island (a bonus being that this is supplemented with lectures by specialists from the British Antarctic Survey Teams-all very rich in detail and content).

A great effort had been made by the government to eradicate the invasive species (this being viewed as successful in relation to reindeer and rats).

The emphasis therefore is to take precautionary measures against introducing any potential pathogens, spoors, seeds, etc., a prerequisite being disinfecting footwear both leaving and returning to Tenacious.

Clean up also entailed the removal of all asbestos and ground contaminant fuel oil at the Whaling Station.

The Whaling Station at Grytviken

Visits to the old Whaling Station at Grytviken are of particular interest to many, it being about a kilometre away across the Cove.

At its height of its commercial operations, approximately 8,000 whales were processed in 1925 (a total of 175,250 whales taken to South Georgia between 1904 and 1965).

The skeletal remains of the processing (flensing) plant remains as a sad reminder of man's inhumanity to these gracious leviathan creatures; though every picture tells a story and much of the history is captured in the former Station's Manager's House (which was known as the Villa) which has been converted to a Museum.

The Museum covers numerous aspects of the Island's History, Heritage, Wildlife, Topography, Military conflict, Antarctic Exploration and Discovery, and its Natural environs.

A number of memorabilia articles from Shackleton's voyages are on display.

The Museum's section on wildlife gives a good insight in to the island's and its offshore inhabitants, with numerous specimens exhibited from animals that had died from natural causes.

Visitors have the chance to touch the pelts of seals and penguins (altogether a hands on experience!).

There is a Gift Shop in the Museum, whilst an adjacent building houses the Post Office-these being open on a seasonal basis.

On the shoreline, run up on to the beach are three vessels, the "Petrel", the "Dias" and the "Albatross" which were seal or whale catchers (there being a number of proposals for the renovation and preservation of these vessels-returning them to various European Ports).

Petrel has a Harpoon Gun mounted, it bringing home the horror that the harpoon spears were tipped with explosive charges.

In close proximity is the Norwegian Whaler's Church, complete with steeple.

The building has undergone renovation; it was here that Shackleton's body lay in state. Here also, marriages, funerals, and baptisms were conducted along with the weekly services.

In visiting one is invited to ring the two bells.

The Whalers Cemetery

Making one's way to the Whalers Cemetery which is a short walk away, one has to skirt around a group of Elephant seals who are dozing contentedly in the late afternoon sunshine, a case of "Let sleeping Elephant Seals lie".

The Cemetery is a simple fenced in affair and it is here that Sir Ernest Shackleton is buried, facing South towards the Antarctic, the land that he had dedicated so much of his life to.

In the late Summer sun, despite the stillness, solitude and isolation, there is a serenity and presence in the surroundings.

The sun is starting to set and a busy day is in prospect again tomorrow.

We head back around the Cove, I am impressed by the hydroelectric power generation plant that we pass, that runs off glacial waters, the upside being it is clean energy and saves on 60,000 GBP per annum that would have been spent on diesel fuel.

Early the next morning I am concluding our bunkering of fresh water, the seal pups are awake and are fascinated as I roll up the hoses, wanting to participate by the looks of it.

This requires being nimble and fleet of foot to avoid being overwhelmed by a pup invasion-on show also is pup sibling rivalry.

It is goodbye to King Edward Cove but not to South Georgia as vessel makes its way to the Northern Skjold glacier to catch a close up of these phenomenal masses of ice.

Again, fortune favours us as the weather is being very kind, chilly but sunny-this presenting a good photo opportunity for the crew-the varying colours of the glacier, a crystalline, translucent kaleidoscope.

St. Andrew's Bay

The next stop is St. Andrew's Bay for a foray ashore to visit a King Penguin colony. The vessel anchors offshore and the DOTI boat is launched to ferry personnel ashore.

It is quite a scene with the Penguin group who are unfazed by the presence of humans-more inclined to keep an eye on birds like the Skua and Snowy Sheathbill that are looking to make a meal of their eggs.

A number of young Penguins are in the process of moulting (until this is completed they cannot become seaborne).

What is very apparent is the pungent aroma that fills the air-on reflection, what can one expect when one's diet is mainly fish.

These hardy creatures are a delight to the eye with their coloured coats.

On to Cape Town

Time is pressing and it is soon time to weigh anchor, the decision already being made that the next stop will be Cape Town, journey's end for this individual.

Time and tide wait for no man.

Not so much the issue for the tide but as regards time, the weather and vessel maintenance requirements have impacted upon the vessel's schedule.

The net result is that the stopover at Tristan Da Cunha is cancelled. It is a disappointment but it is what it is.

It is a long stretch of Ocean in between South Georgia and Cape Town, nearly three thousand miles.

On the upside, the vessel will leave the Antarctic Convergence and it will be that little bit warmer. Here also is hoping that the Roaring Forties are going to be kind and benevolent in our voyage Eastwards.

It is about a three week passage, the winds prove variable and inconsistent but the weather remains very clement.

In addition, to the normal Watch routines there necessitates plenty of practice in sail setting and handling.

Up on deck, the, classes continue in seamanship and navigation, whilst below there are presentations and lectures on a multitude of topics with talks, films and slide shows.

Life on board

There is a comprehensive Library onboard and a number of personnel continue to update their blogs.

Quiz nights also prove very popular and a good draw, whilst practice for a musical concert is subject to a number of rehearsals, with this grand finale planned to coincide with auction night-running in parallel with a sea shanty sing-a-long and an accompaniment of the Tenacious Bottle Band.

Nothing like being on the far side of the world where one feels and can almost touch "isolation", the stillness, calm and solitude of the southern oceans-here where the Albatross glides graciously and effortlessly at wave height in search of the krill-one can only wonder at its survival skills so far from the sanctuary of land.

The Southern Oceans and Hemisphere certainly have an identity, mood and atmosphere of their own.

The days are far from monotonous, one has only to engage with natural phenomena, the night skies portraying so much celestial beauty.

Then there is the dawn, always a unique experience, the sun rising, quite splendiferous in varying shades of orange and gold and then comes dusk, the end of the day, watching the sun as it disappears over the horizon, serene and peaceful.

Cape Town comes ever closer and with it "Auction Night" which doubles as a Party Night bringing to a conclusion the end of the voyage across the South Atlantic.

A jovial, celebratory evening, tempered with a little sadness as befits an end of a journey where experiences, friendships and community have formed a special unity of spirit among the crew (Unity is strength).

Table Mountain

The following afternoon, Table Mountain comes in to sight (it is a beautiful day, sunny with a somnolent breeze), journey's end for the author but the plus side is a few days layover in Cape Town to explore and renew a friendship with this old acquaintance (a number of times over the years it had been a Port of Call because of its strategic position at the Cape of Good Hope).

Clearing immigration at one jetty, it then off to tie up at the Victoria and Albert Waterfront which hosts numerous Shops and Restaurants, an ace of a tourist destination, especially to be berthed on this waterfront which will allow for opening the vessel to the general public visits.

Cape Town has much to offer as regards tourism, its scenic beauty certainly ranks among the World's best but not to forget, the likes of :

• Robben Island and its Museum where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated
• Groot Constansia
• Cape Point
• Table Mountain (and its Cable Car), and
• Kirstenbosch and City Walk.

Further afield are the potential of safaris (even the Meerkats are in the vicinity) and the Garden Route. Finally, on the marine subject, there is the potential at Gansbaai to see Great White Sharks if they are in the vicinity).

Being a Mariner for many years, in concluding the trip, one can reflect on the various aspects and features that made this once in a lifetime adventure-of special mention and merit were the crew, disability being no bar to achievement-a pleasure and a privilege to sail with them on this voyage on the Far Side of the World.

In concluding on John Masefield's Sea Fever's words, "the long trick's over" but the memories will linger on for many a year.

www.jst.org.uk

jst.org.uk/tenacious/

www.pelagic.co.uk/contact.asp

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www.falklandislands.com

www.gov.gs

Useful links

​ www.jst.org.uk