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Salzburg : music, Mozart and majesty

Salzburg : music, Mozart and majesty

Images : Salzburg Tourism

The Austrian city Salzburg is located on the banks of the Salzach River, near to the German (Bavarian) border on the northern edge of the Alps.

It is the capital of the Austrian federal state of Salzburg which, to avoid confusion with the city, is often called Salzburgerland.

This is a hugely popular traveller destination attracting tourists from all parts of the world.

And no wonder, for Salzburg offers universally lauded baroque architecture, and the Hohensalzburg Castle sitting majestically atop the Festungsberg mountain.

Visitor Salzburg is concentrated in and immediately around the historic Old Town (Altstadt), which enjoys UNESCO designated World Heritage Site status.

Salzburg was also the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756) and his legacy continues to have an influence on the city.

Particularly during the week long Mozart festival every January.

This is just one of a series of festivals that do much to enhance a visit to the city, with the summer Salzburg Festival itself of international renown.



Strolling through Salzburg's historical splendour

As travel writers, Ann and I often find ourselves in a minority of two when it comes to being foreign visitors in a particular place at a particular time.

This was never going to be the case with Salzburg, one of the world's top tourist destinations.

Throughout our visit, English and American accents cropped up regularly as did, as far as my ears could tell, those from all parts of mainland Europe and South America.

Talking of sound, Salzburg is the setting for 1965's The Sound of Music.

Hollywood drove the proverbial 'cart and horses' through the original, very compelling, story of the Von Trap family fleeing the impending Nazi threat.

The American film may have enjoyed worldwide acclaim, but in Salzburg the truer to life, less dramatic, version is preferred.

That said, the city authorities remain happy that the multi-Oscar winner still acts as a lure to attract visitors.

Get a guided tour

Those who know me, know I always stress the importance of getting a guided tour when visiting a city destination for the first time.

Salzburg is no exception and our guide, this time, was Heidi, an accredited city guide and the tallest redhead in Salzburg.

Much of what I write here, in very authoritative prose, comes courtesy of Heidi's tremendous knowledge of, and enthusiasm for, Salzburg.

The area was part of Bavaria until the late 14th century, when Salzburg achieved its independence and enjoyed complete self-rule, by a succession of elected Prince Archbishopsuntil 1805.

During this period, successive Prince Archbishops used their huge wealth to employ Europe's finest architects to create the a city of proclaimed'astounding magnificence' that visitors marvel at today.

Salzburg in the round

To get a first impression of Salzburg in the round - literally - the first thing to do is to take a look at the Sattler Panorama, in the Salzburg Museum, before visiting Hohensalzburg Castle and taking a look at the real thing.

The Sattler Panorama

The Sattler Panorama is a 360 degree, 26 meter, painting of the city and its surrounds as it was in 1829.

Having painted it, Johann Michael Sattler toured his panorama as a travelling attraction, throughout Europe.

Now in the Salzburg Museum, it provides a unique insight into the architecture and daily life in Salzburg 200 years ago.

www.salzburgmuseum.at

Hohensalzburg Castle

Salzburg gets its name from the words 'salt fortress' and where, in the 8th century,local rulers would levy a toll on the salt, mined in the surrounding hills before being barged down the Salzach river.

With the wealth and influence of the city growing, the Festung Hohensalzburg, the city's castle, was built in 1077 and expanded during the following centuries to become the dominating presence that still imposes itself on the city.

Walking, or more likely taking the funicular railway up to the castle, one gets a spectacular view that makes it easy to point out buildings and landmarks depicted in the panorama.

Inside the castle there is a permanent Fortress Museum detailing the history of the structure and its occupants.

www.hohensalzburgcastle.com

Getting to know Salzburg

The rest of one's time in Salzburg is likely to be spent strolling the city's old town, or along the river banks.

Also on route the Getreidegasse is the narrow main shopping street running parallel to the river, and festooned with its ornate signs.

The street scene is made all the more enticing with Salzburg's colourful market and the street musicians, artists and 'human statues'.

And when it is time for refreshment, there is a wide choice of bars, cafes and restaurants.And of course the Augustiner Bräustuberl

Augustiner Bräustuberl

I have been looking forward to writing about the Augustiner Bräustuberl with (almost) the same enthusiasm I had when visiting in the first place.

The Bräustübl is Austria's largest beer tavern with the 1,500 seating bier garden particularly alluring as it is shaded by mature horse chestnut trees.

Located just around he corner from the Staatsbrucke bridge, it is also Salzburg's oldest, having served its own bier since 1621.

There is one choice of bier, the Märzenbier, which is brewed on the premises and only sold here, in half litre and litre steins and in a jug that requires two hands to lift.

Customers make their choice of size, get their stein, wash it out and then a very accommodating gentleman fills it with bier.

It is important to wait until the foam has settled.

If the barrel is a fresh one, there is up to a third foam which forms at the top.

In that case, the stein will be topped up, but only if you have stood there so there is no question of you having drunk any.

It's worth the effort as the brew, somewhere between strong lager and the best English pale ale, is excellent!

Bringing food into the garden (not drink) is allowed and whole families will come to picnic on warm summer weekends. And, of course, to enjoy the bier.

www.augustinerbier.at

The Mozart Dinner concert

While there is nothing new about a dinner shows to lure the tourists, the Mozart Dinner concert in Salzburg is really rather special.

First of all there is the venue, a Baroque hall, which is a part of Stiftskeller St. Peter, and part of the oldest restaurant in Europe.

In 1789 at St. Peter church Mozart's c-minor mass was first performed here and his family were regular diners.

Then there is the fine dining offered, which is prepared to 18th century recipes and includes white cream soup with rosemary-quark-dumpling, breast of roasted capon with potato-pumpkin dumpling, semolina strudel and vegetables and a semi-frozen parfait of honey.

And finally there is the music from the singers and strings of the Amadeus Consort Salzburg who perform a delightful selection of arias and duets from Don Giovanni, Le Nozze di Figaro and The Magic Flute.

A splendid evening is invariably had by all.

www.salzburg-concerts.com/en/salzburg

The Salzburg Card

It is always a good idea to check out any tourist card available, as they invariably offer a good deal.

The Salzburg Card is excellent value as it offers :

  • unlimited use of public transport throughout the city, including fortress funicular, panorama boat and the cable car at Untersberg
  • free admission to many of the city's attractions, and
  • discounts on a number of tours, excursions and annual events.
  • www.salzburg.info/en/sights/salzburg_card

    Salzburg Cathedral

    The 17th Century, Roman Catholic, Baroque Salzburg Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Rupert and Saint Vergilius.

    Founded by Saint Rupert in 774, the cathedral was rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1181 contains the baptismal font in which composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was baptised.

    There should be something going on

    Salzburg stages an annual programme of festivals and special events.

    The Mozart Festival

    Salzburg's annual festival calendar starts the week of 27 January with the Mozart Festival that, as its name suggests, celebrates the life and particularly the work of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

    The Salzburg Festival

    Held late July each year for five weeks, thisis one of Europe's flagship festivals.

    It was first founded by Hugo von Hoffmansthal, Max Reinhardt and Richard Strauss in 1920.

    One highlight of each festival is the performance of the Everyman (Jedermann) dramatization by Hofmannsthal.

    It is performed in Cathedral Square within a programme of performances of chamber music and orchestra works.

    The festival programme includes operas, concerts, theatre and dramatic works performedin venues throughout the city.

    Easter and Whitsun festivals

    The Salzburg Festival organisers also stage smaller versions of the main festival at Easter and Whitsun.

    www.salzburgerfestspiele.at

    The Salzburg Christmas Market

    Salzburg Christmas Market, staged in Cathedral Square, compares with the best in Europe.

    Held from Advent to 26 December it offers a seasonal combination of mulled wine and ginger bread, hot food and arts and crafts.

    Performances by traditional Salzburg choirs and children's school groups are a particularly pleasing feature.

    www.christkindlmarkt.co.at

    The Mirabelle Palace and Gardens

    The Mirabelle Palace was built by Prince Arbishop Wolf Dietrich in 1606 for his mistress, Salome, and later converted in the baroque style. It is now the Salzburg city hall.

    The landscaped flower gardens, which were laid between 1721 and 1727, are a serene place and a fine contrast with the bustling old town just over the river.

    Schloss Hellbrunn

    For a trip just out of the city on a sunny day there's the Schloss Hellbrunn, the one time grand summer palace for the Archbishops.

    The landscaped gardens are extensive and a guided tour takes your group through a series of grottos and fountains that jet water at odd times, in odd angles to get visitors wet.

    This greatly amused the Archbishops.

    Salzburg Zoo

    The Salzburg Zoo, which is next door to Schloss Hellbrunn, is home to some 140 breeds and 800 animals.

    www.salzburg-zoo.at


    www.salzburg.info/en


    The facts

    Salzburg, like all major cities, is a year round destination.

    Climate wise, being located at the Northern edge of the Alps, Salzburg enjoys a typical central European climate with hot summers and winters that are cold and with the risk of snow.

    During spring and autumn the weather is refreshingly temperate and often sunny.

    The city is bustling throughout the year and can get crowded during the festivals and Christmas Market.

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    Salzburg W.A. Mozart International Airport is situated 20 minutes from the city centre with a regular shuttle service.

    This is one of those delightfully small and efficient airports that gets you in and out in hardly any time at all.

    By train

    Salzburg's railway station is located to the north of the Salzach River.

    There are regular inter-city services from Vienna, Munich, Zurich, Zagreb, Ljubljana and Budapest.
    : German although English is widely spoken
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    How to get around

    On foot

    The Old Town area is very compact and easily walkable.

    By bike

    This bike friendly city has 100 km of bike paths. Routes either side of the river are particularly good.

    By bus

    The StadtBuss, operates an                              

    Useful links

    www.salzburg.info/en



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