Split is the largest city on the Croatian coast, the largest city in Dalmatia and the second-largest city in Croatia after the capital, Zagreb.
It lies on the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea and is spread over a central peninsula and its surroundings. A regional transport hub and popular tourist destination, the city provides access to the Croatian islands and the Apennine Peninsula. Close to one million tourists visit Split each year.
When we were there this year summer was practically over, but the waterfront restaurants were still full and the streets of the old town were jam-packed with visitors. They come from everywhere – from far-flung places but also from other Balkan countries and from elsewhere in Croatia.
We stayed in the old town where cars are not allowed except for delivery vehicles. We stayed at Hotel Slavija, which was opened in 1900 and is the oldest hotel in Split. The building, however, dates from the 17th century. A floor plan on the wall shows the layout of the Diocletian private baths built in the 4th century and above which the hotel has been constructed. Our hotel was situated close to Pjaca Square, one of the most frequented piazzas in the city and a popular gathering place.
Diocletian's Palace is an ancient structure completed in the early 4th century and which has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. It was built for the Roman emperor Diocletian as a place to enjoy his retirement years. Today, its considerable remains form about half of the old town of Split.
Once you've viewed the palace from multiple angles while exploring Split, it's easy to see why any emperor would be happy to build his retirement home here. Construction was an elaborate affair with materials brought in from all over the region, and some from as far away as Egypt.
The building was called Diocletian's "Palace" because of its intended use as a retired emperor's residence. However, it's something of a misnomer because the structure is massive and looks more like a large fortress. About half of it was for Diocletian's personal use and the rest housed the military garrison.
In any event Diocletian never got to enjoy the long retirement he envisaged. In 305 when he relinquished his title – the only Roman emperor ever to do so – he had become ill. He lived simply in the palace until his death in 311 and was interred in its mausoleum.
The original basement of the palace has been opened up to visitors and offers a glimpse into the living arrangements of the earlier occupants. Steps at the northern end lead up to the Peristyle, which was originally the central courtyard of the palace but is now part of the virtual living museum, where modern shops, cafés and apartments coexist with ancient structures.
Outside the north gate of the palace stands the statue of Gregory of Nin. Gregory, or Grgur Ninski to give him his proper name, is a famous figure and a champion of the Croatian language.
In 926, Croatian church representatives were summoned to Split by Pope Ivan X and ordered to conduct a reform of the church system. The pope wanted Slavic languages to be banned by the church and Latin made the only acceptable language for Mass and official church business. In the factional fighting that followed, Gregory of Nin led the charge in favour of the old Slavic languages and is today regarded as a national hero.
A symbol of Split is the Cathedral of St Duje (or Domnius) named after the first bishop of Salona and built in the 13th century. It's one of Split's most famous attractions complete with Romanesque wooden doors and appearing frequently on local postcards.
Next to the cathedral is Split's iconic bell tower, six storeys-high and tapering towards the upper levels, to which you can climb if you're fit enough.
Among other attractions are the Pazar or Green Market and the fish market. The big open-air Green Market is located at the eastern side of the Diocletian Palace in front of Silver Gate, and sells a huge range of fruit and vegetables, but also plenty of other goods including clothes.
Local farms near Split produce all groceries found here and the market only offers seasonal products. The market opens around 7am and closes by 2pm. Just a five-minute walk away is the fish market or Ribarnica. The fish market is in a closed area during winter but usually outside in the summer.
Photos © Judy and Barry Barford