Potts Point, Woolloomooloo and Elizabeth Bay are situated in the eastern suburbs – seen in the foreground of the title picture – although the first two at least are also regarded as inner city suburbs, such is their close proximity to the CBD.
These attractive, harbourside suburbs are brimming with history, Potts Point being the first deliberately designed suburb – a haven for those who could afford to live in the dress circle overlooking Sydney and its resplendent harbour – and Woolloomooloo is where naval ships first moored in 1856. They're both now home to world-class restaurants and bars, boutique shopping and cutting-edge theatre.
Elizabeth Bay is another suburb located on the eastern side of a ridge along the Potts Point Peninsula, facing east towards the harbour and the heads. Potts Point occupies the western side facing Woolloomooloo Bay. Elizabeth Bay still has apartments built In the 1930s in the Art Deco style, a number of which are now heritage-listed.
Colonial history
These suburbs are all less than five kilometres east of the Sydney central business district and feature some fine examples of colonial architecture, which can be admired without necessarily admiring the colonists. They were certainly full of themselves in those days, describing Elizabeth Bay House as 'the finest house in the colony'. Built between 1835 and 1839, Elizabeth Bay House was designed by 'the most fashionable and accomplished architect of the day, John Verge', for the colonial secretary, Alexander Macleay, and his family.
Alexander Macleay was a renowned gentleman scientist who established a significant library and entomology collection and had extensive interests in botany. Macleay Point was named after him (as were a street and a reserve) and forms a boundary between Elizabeth Bay and nearby Rushcutters Bay.
Elizabeth Bay House was restored and opened as a house museum in 1977. Elegantly furnished to the period of 1839 to 1845, the interiors reflect the lifestyle of the Macleays and present an evocative picture of 19th century life. The house was once surrounded by an extensive 22-hectare garden and described as a botanist's paradise.
Shopping and entertainment
Nearby stores include the delightful Becker Minty, an eclectic lifestyle store for a one-of-a-kind purchases, and Macleay on Manning, which sells a constantly changing selection of diverse homewares, lifestyle, art and gifts. Potts Point Vintage is great for high-quality clothes and collectables, while sweet-smelling gifts can be bought at The Little Candle Shop and Poho Flowers.
Hayes Theatre in Elizabeth Bay puts on small-scale musical theatre and cabaret, but with big names often appearing on the intimate stage. Young writers and performers are given a platform at the Old Fitz Theatre, a small venue at the back of the Old Fitzroy Hotel in Woolloomooloo.
Eastern suburbs eateries
Woolloomooloo Wharf is home to a number of fine dining restaurants including
OTTO, which describes its cuisine as modern Italian with roots firmly placed in the classics; China Doll, presenting culinary traditions from China, Japan and South-East Asia; Manta or Kingsleys for seafood and steaks; or try Alibi Bar and Kitchen in the Ovolo hotel, which claims to be Australia's first 100 per cent plant-based hotel bar and restaurant.
If you would prefer a budget option together with a great view, then nearby is Harry's Café de Wheels, East Sydney's famous pie cart. Harry's Café de Wheels has enthusiastically served customers for more than 80 years and its website boasts visits from a vast number of celebrities who came to sample its classic Tiger Pie. They span several generations and include Frank Sinatra, Marlene Dietrich, Robert Mitchum, Brooke Shields, Olivia Newton-John, Russell Crowe, Elton John and Prince Harry among others. Photos can be seen on the website and at the café.
The concept began in 1936 when Harry "Tiger" Edwards – a man who would today be called an entrepreneur – became frustrated by his failed attempts to find a good late-night snack. He opened his own caravan café near the front gates of Woolloomooloo naval dockyard, utilising a mobile van with a hung awning, similar to those found at fairgrounds. By 1945 it was trading as Harry's Café de Wheels, a sarcastic play on words that acknowledged city council laws which required him to move the van a minimum of 12 inches a day.
The café quickly became a popular stop for Sydney's youth. Over the years word spread to the broader population and Harry's did a roaring trade. In the late 1990s franchises began to open in other New South Wales cities and, later, overseas operations were considered. In 2004 Harry's was classified by the National Trust of Australia (NSW) and included on its register.
Harry Edwards ran the business for 30 years before selling it in 1975. It has since changed hands twice more, in 1988 and 2018.
Nowadays, Harry's "cart" is a fixed structure on a masonry base at Woolloomooloo. It is part of Sydney's cultural heritage and still serves its famous pies to Sydneysiders and visitors alike. It is open until the early hours of the morning, ranging from 1am to 4am depending on the day of the week.
This area also includes Kings Cross, once Sydney's red-light district, now a late-night entertainment precinct. Kings Cross is also home to two major Sydney landmarks, the dandelion-shaped El Alamein Memorial Fountain (pictured in the thumbnails) and a giant neon-lit Coca-Cola billboard.
Getting there
The nearest station to all of these suburbs is Kings Cross, just one train stop up from Martin Place in the CBD, or it's a 15-minute walk up William Street from the city centre. If you happen to be down by the harbour you can catch a water taxi.
Continuing east from here will take you to Watsons Bay and the world-famous Bondi Beach, as well as other coastal and inland suburbs of eastern Sydney. To the south is the massive Centennial Park, 189 hectares of wide-open spaces with gardens, ponds, cycleways, horse riding, playgrounds, restaurants and bars, even a twice-weekly farmers market.
Visitors to Sydney will naturally be drawn to tourist attractions like the harbour bridge, The Rocks and the opera house, but if you are interested in cities and the people who live in them, Sydney's eastern suburbs are well worth a visit.