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The Best Turkish Breakfast is Out of Town

It's only a short ride from glitzy marinas to tranquil Turkish breakfast
Yalikavak has experienced a complete makeover. What was once a small fishing village is now home to the deepest marina in Turkey that attracts the world's mega yachts. But just because the town is shaping itself for millionaires doesn't mean you can't still experience a slice of rural Turkey a stone's throw away.

Yalikavak

Yalikavak is the first town on Turkey's Bodrum Peninsula that tugged at my heart-strings tempting me to return again and again. It reminds me of the "little engine that could". The small sleepy exterior hides a powerful engine that continues to drive expansion and change. 

Yalikavak Marina home of the deepest marina in Turkey

This historical sponge-diving town has long supported the local arts and crafts scene and the small and compact downtown area that hugs the harbor boasts art galleries, craft stalls, and an art walk. There are plenty of other small tourist shops and restaurants to choose from. But this area of town stands in direct contrast to the recently renovated, and expanded, Marina.​

Yalikavak Bay

"If you come to the top of this hill, you will see Bodrum. Don't think that you will leave the same person as when you arrived. To all those who came before you, it happened that way: they lost their hearts in Bodrum."

by Cevat Sakir,

Yalikavak Palmarina

Yalikavak's Palmarina located on the Bodrum Peninsula, is a 5-gold-anchor marina with 620 berths that can take yachts up to 135m. It's Turkey's first high-capacity mega yacht marina located at the beginning of Bodrum's historical Blue Voyage route. 

This area of Turkey was made famous by Cevat Sakir, better known as the Fisherman of Halicarnassus, who was a Turkish writer exiled to the area in the 1920's. He was responsible for transforming the small fishing village of Bodrum into the global tourist destination it is today. 

Sakir raised awareness of the turquoise coastlines of Turkey by writing about them and inviting friends to explore the southern coastline in traditional gulet boats with him. A tourist destination was born, and neighboring towns like Yalikavak soon came under the expansion umbrella.

Yalikavak Marina has a sprawling open-air shopping mall with a broad selection of gourmet restaurants, bars and cafes, along with plenty of, higher priced, shopping opportunities. It's also home to the Palmarina Beach Hotel and Palmarina Boutique Hotel, a Spa & Fitness Center and a variety of ongoing public events, like concerts and stage shows. 


Gökçebel

There are a broad range of excellent places to eat in Yalikavak. Whether you're looking for a gourmet dinner or quick local snack that you can grab-and-go. But if you venture just out of earshot of the Marina you'll reach to neighboring suburb of Gökçebel. Within two kilometers you're transported inland by two decades and land knee-deep in village culture.

Yalikavak Marina home of the deepest marina in Turkey
Yalikavak Bay

Here you can leave the frantic pace of our modern world behind and recharge your batteries. Gökçebel entices you to slow down, and what better way to decompress than lingering over a traditional Turkish Breakfast - a welcome antithesis to grab-and-go.

Both of Gökçebel's two restaurants and only open until mid-afternoon when the last customer pushes themselves away from the table and rolls out into the sunshine, unable to eat devour one more morsel or drain their glass of Turkish tea. 

Dirmil Koy Kahvaltisi

The most recent addition to Gökçebel's culinary draw is Dirmil Koy Kahvaltisi (Translation: Dirmil Village Breakfast). This family home has been expanded to welcome hungry visitors to a sun-dappled patio, which waits patiently at the end of a narrow lane. Even though the hosts at Dirmil have limited English, they welcome you with the globally understood gesture of open arms and open smile.

The fried egg I ordered hadn't traveled much further than the chicken coop in the back yard. It's rich yolk was bright orange and had a buttery taste – perfect for dipping. The Village Flatbread is the closest I've come to tasting an English Muffin in Turkey, and the other other warm cake-textured bread was so dense and sweet making it was ideal for spreading one the seven jams that were served. My favorite was a citrus and chili preserve that I had to roll around my mouth to discern the ingredients.

Most Turkish Breakfast tables are laid with a standard local produce selection of tomatoes, cucumber, parsley, arugula, a mix of olives, and a selection of cheese. But Dirmil Koy Kahvaltisi supplements their standard breakfast with a selection of savory Turkish favorites.
Turkish Breakfast at Dirmil Koy Kahvaltisi​
Turkish Breakfast at Dirmil Koy Kahvaltisi​

These include three variations of vegetarian Gözleme and Börek that are all made with hand-rolled sheets of yufka dough (phyllo) which is lightly brushed with butter and eggs, the prepared, shaped, and stuffed differently. These dishes have Anatolian origins and can be stuffed with any mixture of cheese, vegetables, or meat.

Here in Turkey, any leaf or flower that is stuffed is referred to as dolma, and you're served two variations with the Dirmil breakfast. The first is the traditional stuffed vine leaves popular in the Mediterranean, and the other is a stuffed zucchini flower. Both were vegetarian and had varying mixtures of rice, vegetables, and spices.

And finally, as if that feast wasn't enough, this restaurant also serves a side dish of Menemem included in the 30TL price. This traditional Turkish breakfast dish is a mix of soft scrambled eggs cooked with onions, peppers, paprika and oregano. Another mouthwatering target for your bread.

Breakfast is washed down by a seemingly bottomless pot of tea, but the best thing about breakfast here at Dirmil Koy Kahvaltisi is that there's no rush to leave.

I lingered over my meal for a couple of hours but I could have easily relaxed in the shade of the twisted vine canopy until my food settled. Instead, I pushed myself away from the table and rolled out into the sunshine, vowing to return.



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