AllWays Traveller Features
The Less Travelled Side of Puerto Rico
The town vibe is elegant and laid back. The locals are very welcoming. And the art - visual, architectural and culinary, is outstanding.
Plaza las Delicias
A good starting point is the Plaza las Delicias, the central main square home to bubbling fountains shaded by large trees and surrounded by graceful buildings. Prominently placed on the north corner is the most extraordinary fire station, Parque de Bombas, now open as a museum.
The whole building is a jumble of red and black stripes, and probably the most photographed building in all of Puerto Rico
Ponce is also known as La Ciudad de los Leones, the City of Lions, as the town's symbol is the lion. In 2012 they started a public art project of life size lion statues placed around the square.
Each one is painted by a local artist, some have a great sense of mischief, others majesty. While you're in the square, pop over the street, to a tiny store called King's Cream, and choose a refreshing ice sorbet to slurp while you cool off under the trees of the park.
Practically next door to King's Cream on the corner is a souvenir shop, Mi Coqui Souvenirs, which is full of the usual stuff peddled to tourists.
A hidden gem
But this one has an extraordinary hidden gem - ask to see the art gallery. You are led through the back stock room, up some uneven stairs and a door is unlocked to reveal a treasure trove of local art hanging on the walls and stacked on the floor.
When I was there they had two very big and beautiful papier mache folk art masks, the vejigante masks, made by one of Puerto Rico's premier mask makers.
He is getting on in age and probably won't be making many more. The masks are worn traditionally during carnival by costumed vejigantes who roam the streets with the idea they'll scare sinners back in to the arms of the church.
The owner of the store, David Maldonado took me up to the gallery and I asked him how this Aladdin's art cave started.
Always collected
He smiled and said he loves art and has always collected.
So he decided to open a gallery. I am so glad he did and I hope he makes it easier to access because it is an amazing place and at present has no outside publicity at all. Wander a couple of blocks up a side street from the square to the Centro Cultural de Ponce Carmen Solá de Pereira. It is housed on Calle Cristina in a wonderful apricot coloured restored mansion with a cool central courtyard.
The main function of the center is to promote local artists, further arts eduction and many other cultural activities.
They often conduct painting lessons on the front porch and have constantly changing art exhibits on display. After a warm welcome they encourage you to wander about at will and leave you to enjoy the art and the lovely building.
The Museo de Arte de Ponce
It's not near the center of town but it is definitely worth making an effort to get to the Museo de Arte de Ponce.
This museum is the premier art museum in the Caribbean and it is exceptional. What started out with a small collection of about 70 paintings, it is now considered to be a world class art museum of approximately 800 masterpieces. It's housed in a building designed by the architect for the New York City Museum of Modern Art and Washington, D.C.'s Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, Edward Durrell Stone.
If you have the time, head to the coast and in to the hills for a day for two. There are lovely beaches, a couple hidden down bumpy dirt roads.
The hill towns are great to explore, San German is less touched by modern tourism and is filled with restored historic homes and squares. Another fascinating town architecturally, with colorful houses built like mosaics on the hill side and gracious mansions in town, is Yauco, once the major coffee town in the world.
Don't be afraid to try the yummy snacks and food from stalls and food trucks on the side of the road. They are easy to spot. You'll see a line outside a small hole in the wall, or a truck usually with a couple of tables and chairs outside. Stop and try their specialty. These can range from mofongo, basically mashed plantains and a stew, or pasteles, usually pork in a dough similiar to a tamale, or lechon, a delicious spit roasted pig, and tostones, a sort of plantain french fry.
Most tourists only visit San Juan, the capital. Although it is delightful, there is so much more to Puerto Rico.
Hire a car and head out of town and go explore. Puerto Rico is not very big, getting around is easy and driving is no problem. You will be warmly welcomed. Soak it all up and enjoy ... the island, it's food and art, is glorious.