The first rule for visiting markets: Get there early. You'll want to watch the vendors set up their stalls before the shoppers arrive. Watch them trim the vegetables, stack the fruit, arrange the fish, and butcher the meat. All the while chattering with their neighbors in friendly voices, probably bragging about what their wives or mothers cooked for dinner last night.
Fish and meat are set out in the open air, the opposite of the sterile plastic-wrapped packages of large grocery stores. The fishmongers take special care to display the day's catch to attract customers. Sicilians tend to have their favorite stalls; over time, vendors show their appreciation by setting aside the best for loyal customers.
Sicily's markets are noisy. Vendors shout to customers, describing what's fresh that day. Scooters cut through the narrow aisles, dodging displays. Shoppers stop to chat with neighbors. The atmosphere is lively, especially in the morning. By noon, stalls start to close, and by early afternoon, everyone is home for the long Sicilian siesta. Tomorrow, it will all start again.
Four Sicilian Open-Air Markets Worth a Visit
To get an authentic experience, four markets across Sicily are worth your attention:
Mercato Ballarò, Palermo
Mercato Ballarò, Palermo: Even before the 0600 opening, this market is busy. Set in one of Palermo's poorer neighborhoods, the market winds its way through the narrow streets. This area of Palermo still shows the scars of World War II bombing. The contrast between fresh food and fatigued buildings demonstrates the Sicilian determination to carry on. (After all, it's been conquered, destroyed, and rebuilt since the Phoenicians arrived in 800 B.C.)
Look past the buildings to the stalls. There is everything here: food, clothing, and housewares. People of all ages are shopping or browsing. At first it seems humorous to see such a conglomeration of items, but then it becomes logical. Why wouldn't a housewife pick out a bra along with broccoli? Socks next to sardines? Sure!
The Ballarò Street Market is open every day, 0600-1400. Near Piazza Reale. Go, rain or shine.
Vucciria Market, Palermo
Mercato Vucciria, Palermo: Enter the 700 year-old market through the gate and join the lively crowd. Vucciria translates loosely as "voices," as the noise level indicates on busy days. The market opens at 0600, but the fishmongers are already selling as they set up for the day.
Produce isn't always pretty, and your chain grocery store would never sell it. But buy it anyway, because it was probably picked last night or even this morning. And it hasn't been engineered to look beautiful in a fruit bowl. In fact, it probably comes from carefully-tended gardens that go back several generations.
Wandering the streets, you realize everything is here. Beans, spices, olives, and yes, more underwear. Shops behind the stalls sell cheese, sausage, and pastries. Stop at a tiny bar for a coffee (caffè) or a glass of wine. Ask the man in the deli to make you a sandwich (pannino).
The Vucciria Market is open Monday through Saturday from 0600-1400, although the fishermen arrive about 0400. It's across from Piazza San Domenico.
Ortigia Market, Syracuse
Mercato di Ortigia, Siricusa: Syracuse, the ancient Greek city, is home to a market filled with swordfish, eggplants, citrus, as well as Ragusano and ricotta cheese. Seasonal produce is abundant, especially the blood oranges that are unique to the region.
Ragusano cheese is one of the oldest in Sicily, going back to 1500. It's made exclusively in Syracuse and nearby Ragusa. Sicily is also the birthplace of ricotta cheese, available in a variety of forms, from fresh to hard. Take a chance on a couple of kinds of Sicilian cheese. Just point and use your thumb and forefinger to indicate that you want a little bit: "Piccolo."
The market is located in the old section of Syracuse, on the tiny island of Ortygia, where Syracuse began almost 3,000 years ago. Open every day except Sunday, it feels more relaxed than the markets of Palermo, although it is just as busy. A short walk from downtown Syracuse, it's easy to stroll along to the sounds of the vendors calling out and chatting with the shoppers.
Stop for lunch at Caseificio Borderi, located on Via Emmanuelle de Benedictis 6. It's a small deli and cheese shop worth a wait in the daily queue. For 5 Euros, Andrea Borderi makes a unique sandwich for each person, while handing out samples of meat and cheese to patient customers. How great are these pannini? They have been voted the #1 Street Food in Italy!
The Ortygia Market is open Monday through Saturday from 0600 to 1400.Caseficio Borderi is open from 0700 to 1600 Monday through Saturday.Both are easily found on Ortygia after crossing either the Santa Lucia or Ponte Nuovo bridge.
Carlo Alberto Market, Catania
Mercato de Carlo Alberto, Catania:Famous for its fish, this market opens as soon as the fisherman arrive with their catch. Whatever they have caught is for sale, so customers arrive early to choose the best.
If getting up at 0400 isn't in your plans, be at the market as it breaks down around 1300-1400.It's fascinating to watch the fisherman pack up and clean their areas while the last of the day's customers browse what's left of the catch.
Never pass up a Sicilian market!
Every town has an open-air market. Sometimes once or twice a week, but always worth a visit. Sicilians are proud of their island's products and will do their best to help you appreciate what they enjoy on a daily basis. A visit to a Sicilian market will make your next trip to your own grocery store seem quite mundane…and expensive.
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