AllWays Traveller Features
Touring New Zealand – a surprising culinary itinerary
As the recent BBC TV series demonstrated in glorious HD, travellers go to New Zealand for its spectacular and hugely varying scenery. Just as we did.
However, the consistently high standard of meals whilst enjoying the remarkable landscapes of both North and South islands was an unexpected bonus, and three of the meals we enjoyed were absolutely outstanding.
If you're planning a New Zealand tour I hope this article helps you save time in the evenings searching for a reliable place to eat, and if you can, find time to dine at all three featured places below. Prices quoted include tips and drinks (NZ$2 to £1), the latter potentially a significant element of your bill due to the high taxes on home produced wines.
3rd Place: Indigo, Napier - Asiatic Art-deco Artistry The journey to Napier from Lake Taupo across a series of mountain passes is a treat in itself. Whilst Napier wasn't our favourite place, it's pleasant enough, and its art-deco centre owes its existence to an earthquake in 1931 that levelled much of the city. It is in the Hawkes Bay region, which means plenty of vineyards to see nearby.
We'd been away for four weeks by the tme we hit Napier, so when Trip Advisor informed us that the number 1 restaurant there is an Indian, we were easily tempted – and glad we were. Superb spicing delivered flavour amidst the fire that was adjusted to your requested level - always sufficiently hot but never burning.
Even curry house staples such as onion bhaji were subtly different, and the signature dish of melt-in-the-mouth marinated lamb cutlets is a must. While much of the menu has a familiar ring to it, the unfamiliar brings rapturous and exotic descriptions from enthusiastic waiters, and delicious food on the plate.
Indigo's British owner has a penchant for whisky, and displays his sizeable collection behind the bar. Fiery liquid to follow fiery food. $180 for three (£90).http://indigo-napier.co.nz/menus/dinner-menu
2nd Place: – The Tasting Room, Wellington - Eponymous Eating: I like big promises and a little arrogance in self-promotion, so was drawn in to The Tasting Rooms by a well known magazine's review headline displayed outside the restaurant, proclaiming their Beef Wellington to be one of the top ten culinary experiences in the world.
I'd agree.
It was pastry perfection encasing flavoursome and tender Black Angus fillet with delicious prosciutto and porcini duxelle, all enhanced by port sauce delivering the richness and depth only a master saucier can conjour up.
NZ$36 (£18) is an incredible gastronomic bargain for such an excellent dish. Enough said.http://www.thetastingroom.co.nz/
1st place: The Trading Rooms, Akaroa - Last Nights, First Class On the Banks Peninsula, east of earthquake devastated Christchurch from where we were travelling next to Sydney, Akaroa is somewhere I tell everyone going to New Zealand to seek out. For our last two nights in the country we had no fixed plan, and picked Akaroa because it wasn't far away from Christchurch, and because of its intriguing guide book entry: 'a historic French settlement'.
For the forty five minute drive up the mountains that separate the peninsula from the Canterbury plains we were fervently hoping Akaroa would be worth the journey. We needn't have worried. Cresting the summit opens up a jaw-dropping vista of brilliant blue sea lapping the feet of mountains on either side of this stunning harbour. We spent the downward half of the journey fervently hoping we'd find somewhere to stay.
We did, in a lovely - and great value - apartment on the shoreline. Examining menus along the seafront, the imagination of the food on one menu eclipsed all the others we read.
When we'd eaten, we were never going to consider anywhere else to spend our last night in New Zealand.
The Trading Rooms combines ingredients I wouldn't have imagined introducing to each other, often in highly complex dishes that just work brilliantly.
My wife so enjoyed her Scallop with vanilla, jasmine, apple, olive oil, pomegranate and a cucumber and gin sorbet, she combined it with my main course the following evening to create what she felt was 'The Perfect Menu'.
But I get ahead of myself. Oh to have the patience of the chef who filleted tiny ribbons of whitebait packed inside the lightest of herbed omelettes. Superb.
Val's first evening main of local lamb cooked three ways (Cannon, roast saddle, and confit of belly) with potato, tomato, olive, basil and French beans almost approached the dazzling high of my Beef Fillet salt baked in lardo (a type of cured salami), with chorizo and pea bon-bons; summer succotash of sweetcorn, red bell pepper and tomato; sorrel pesto; and raclette cheese and ale rarebit. The best plate of food I've ever enjoyed. Every element had every right to be there. Every mouthful was exquisite layers of flavour extracted from superb ingredients.
Hot Chocolate Fondant, stracciatella ice cream, chocolate caviar and cookies soil was neither too sweet nor too rich. A classic crème brulée was exemplary.
On our second visit, I opted for a Hunter's Supper of 12 hour confit pork belly, Cervena venison collar, hazelnuts, summer carrots, apple and borlotti, all drizzled with wheat beer jus. Val agreed with me it was a very close second to the beef.
With bills of NZ$260 (£130) and NZ$200 (£99) for the two evenings, the second without desserts, given that we chose reasonably expensive delicious wines, I thought the Trading Rooms remarkably good value for such exceptional fare – as I said, the best I've ever eaten.
Find an excuse to include Akaroa in your schedule – you'll be delighted by the town as much as by The Trading Rooms. http://www.thetradingrooms.co.nz/dinner#/page/1
The best of the rest
On a whistlestop tour of New Zealand the last thing I expected to write about afterwards was its food. Each of those featured restaurants provided fabulous culinary memories. All the places listed below served very good food, just not up to the dizzy heights of the three above.
Alice May, Franz Josef. Best of the rest. Delicious wholesome and hearty food. Lovely atmosphere.
Portofino Restaurant, Auckland. Italian in Viaduct Harbour, which hosts over 20 bars and restaurants around a small marina.
Coromandel Hotel, Coromandel Town - or as locals call it, 'The Top Pub'.Gargantuan portions - my full fillet of beef came with 9 large scallops (to my delight, complete with the roe). I loved Liquorice Ice Cream served with a Sambuca shot.
The Pepper Tree, Coromandel Town. A wholly different experience to The Top Pub, but not excessively more expensive for the very good fine dining it delivers.
The Whaler, Kaikura. Pub grub done well. Fantastic sticky ribs.
Buccleuch Pub, Greymouth. Decent gastro-pub.
Flame, Queenstown. Good steaks, burgers and ribs. Combos are scarily big.
Ferg Burger, Queenstown. Queues outside all day every day. The bun from their own bakery next door is more the star than the nice enough burger inside.
Beach Café, Riverton. Lovely fish and chip lunch. Strange fish burger special! Everything beautifully cooked. (Although I wouldn't recommend Riverton itself as a destination to visit)
Speights Ale House, Timaru. Bustling town centre gastro pub. Good food but dreadfully slow service the Saturday night we visited.
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After previous problems with a low-cost car hire provider booked via an aggregator we now use Hertz when ever possible www.hertz.co.uk