By Nigel Duncan on Friday, 08 November 2019
Category: Europe

Ullapool and the North-West Highlands of Scotland

Ullapool is a picturesque village on the shores of Loch Broom and best known as the ferry terminal for Stornoway in Lewis and the Outer Hebrides.

It has a population of around 1,500 but is the largest settlement for miles.

The North Atlantic Drift passes the town moderating the temperature and it was founded in 1788 as a herring port.

Thomas Telford designed the town which is in the shadow of rugged mountains.

It has a reputation as a music centre and hosts a book festival every year. The town has a small museum.

Ullapool is referenced in the multiplayer video game Team Fortress 2 and, in the Marvel comics, the mutant werewolf Rahne Sinclair is from the town.

Ullapool is in one of the least spoilt natural environments in the UK.

There are varied walks including mountains, rocky coasts and long inland footpaths with a good portion of the finest summits in the North-West Highlands.

The town is considered ideal for touring Wester Ross and the Highlands with Inverness around 60 minutes south and Stornoway and Lewis in the Outer Hebrides a short ferry ride away.

Corrieshalloch Gorge

Its Scottish Gaelic name translates to unattractive corrie but the gorge represents one of the most breath-taking attractions in the Western Highlands.

The River Droma runs through the 1.5 km (0.9 m) long and 60 m (197 ft) chasm, dropping in a series of dramatic waterfalls, the most impressive of which is the 45m (148 ft) Measach drop.

Stac Pollaidh mountain has a peak which displays a rocky crest of Torridonian sandstone with pinnacles and steep gullies.

The ridge was exposed to weathering as a nunatak above the ice sheet during the last Ice Age, while the ice flow carved and scoured the smooth sides of the mountain.

It is just over 2000 feet with fine views and ease of access from a road and it has become a popular peak to climb.

Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve is a popular visit attraction

Inverpolly Nature Reserve is the place to watch for wildlife such as buzzards, peregrine falcons, and puffins.

www.nature.scot/knockan-crag

www.nts.org.uk

My trip

I was on a five-day Rabbie's of Edinburgh tour to Orkney.

We also took in Scotland's northern coastline of Caithness and Sutherland going past the Castle of Mey, towns including Thurso, the decommissioned Dounreay nuclear power station and down through spectacular countryside to Ullapool.

You pass the Kyle of Tongue, Loch Eriboll, the sea-carved Smoo Cave which is well worth stopping for, and wonderful Sango Bay.

The sand is so soft and take a dip if you dare.

One Canadian lady with us went for a paddle.

The rest of the route is sensational, through deep glens, wee towns and we were fortunate to view the mountains in their Autumnal tints. Watch out for deer after dusk and camper vans.

North West 500

The popular NC500 starts in the northern city of Inverness, weaves along the west coast to Applecross and then north towards Torridon and Ullapool.

It takes in Caithness and John o' Groats before heading south through Dingwall and back to Inverness. Total of 516 miles.

The four-room Rosslyn Cottage B&B is run by Chris and Kevin Coughlin and is a wee gem. It is wonderfully warm, clean and it has a great shower and comfy bed. Rosslyn is about a minute from the centre of town and the port area and near the shops.

Breakfast includes warming porridge, fresh fruit, a full Scottish or eggs and locally sourced smoked salmon which is hand-smoked. Delicious.

www.rosslyncottage.com

There are a number of restaurants in the town and a super chippy (chip shop).

The Seaforth was well-recommended for Scottish food and there is the Ferry Boat Inn which is a traditional bar with a great view over the harbour.

I went to the disappointing Royal Hotel. Good atmosphere, friendly staff and a refreshing local ale (Autumn Nuts from Cairngorm) but disappointing food. Steak pie was average as was the pizza.

www.theseaforth.com

www.fbiullapool.com

www.royalhotelullapool.co.uk

How to get there

Ullapool is almost 60 miles / 100 km northwest of Inverness, which has the nearest airport and railway station. Follow A835 and allow 75 mins.

Bus

Inverness to Ullapool is about 90 minutes and Glasgow to Ullapool can range anything from six hours to 13 hours depending on the route.

Boat

Calmac car ferries sail between Ullapool and Stornoway on Lewis taking about 2hr 45min. They sail year-round, with two sailings Monday to Saturday, one on Sunday (November to March) and two April to Oct. Single fare is about £50 per car and £10 per passenger including driver.

Rabbie's of Edinburgh do a number of tours which take in Ullapool.

www.rabbies.com

Useful links

www.ullapool.com