In January, there are no lines: walk effortlessly into any church or museum or across any slim canal.
Yes, it's cold in January –– with highs in the 40s Fahrenheit. You'll rarely encounter acqua alta, the high tides that wash over Piazza San Marco
and other low-lying areas. Those are well behind any January visit, occurring mostly in October through December.
You will, however, encounter quiet in a hibernating city, and a chance to settle
Jazz at the Bauer
The Hotel Bauer, a few blocks from Piazza San Marco, hosts jazz nights in its B Bar Lounge, just off the lobby. Locals, including Rossana Carraro, Diamante, Teti Cortese and Rita Bincoletto pair with guitar or trios. Club chairs are arranged around the stage; waiters are attentive with drinks and snacks.
The Bauer is located in Campo San Moisé, next to San Moisé, originally built in the 8th century. The Bauer is a stark contrast to the church's busy Baroque icing that dates to 1668 –– the Bauer addition that faces the square was added in the 1940s; it's a nonconformist bit of Brutalist architecture. The canal side presents a more grand entrance: the hotel is a former 18th Century palace.
Jazz also plays at the Bauer's premier restaurant, De Pisis, an elegant room with windows facing the Grand Canal, and stunning views of Santa Maria Della Salute. Both Venetian and Mediterranean cuisine (and a bit of fusion of each) is served.
There's also L'ulivo, a closer to earth experience –– it's surrounded by lush gardens in a former convent on the grounds that was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, revived by Francesca Bortolotto Possati in 2006. The well-connected Possati is c
Billed as the "highest terrace in Venice," Settimo Cielo (Seventh Heaven), is Bauer's breakfast cafe, exclusive to guests. It includes a terrace with spectacular views of both the city and lagoon.
Vivaldi and San Vidal
Venice and the music of Antonio Vivaldi are synonymous. The incomparable composer of Baroque music was born in Venice and worked in the city much of his life. In 1678, he was baptized in his family's parish church, San Giovanni in Bragora.
The Interpreti Veneziani is an ideal way to experience Vivaldi's Venice. Founded in 1987, the ensemble hosts more than 60,000 annual viewers. The group has appeared at the Melbourne, Bayreuth and Prague music festivals, and in concerts at Stockholm's Royal Palace, among other venues.
In Venice, Interpreti Veneziani's home is at a former church: San Vidal, rebuilt in 1696 and now serving as a concert and event hall. It's located in Campo Santo Stefano, just around the corner from the Accademia Bridge.
The group plays year 'round with a revolving sampling of Vivaldi classics –– from the Four Seasons to various concertos.