Perched majestically atop a rugged hill in the heart of Tuscany, Italy, the beautiful hilltop town of Volterra boasts a rich history that stretches back over 2,500 years.

Its story weaves through the tapestry of Etruscan, Roman, medieval, Renaissance and modern times, scattering a legacy that sometimes leaves you spellbound.

This stunning hill town is a little over an hour's drive from Florence through pleasant countryside. We stayed at the atmospheric Hotel Volterra In located right in the historic centre of the town. Completely renovated in 2014, the hotel provides visitors with all the modern comforts. It consists of two older buildings with three floors providing five double rooms, a single room and four suites, one with a rooftop terrace served by a lift. There is a cosy bar off the reception area and secure parking is 150 metres away.

The earliest traces of human settlement in the area date back to the Neolithic period, but it was during the Etruscan civilisation that Volterra began to flourish. Known to the Etruscans as Velathri, the city became one of the twelve most important cities of the Etruscan League, thriving as a centre for trade, art and religion. The Etruscans constructed massive fortifications, including the imposing walls that still encircle the town today, attesting to their impressive engineering skills.

The Roman period

With the rise of the Roman Empire, Volterra fell under Roman control in the 3rd century BCE, becoming a prosperous Roman municipality known as Volaterrae. The Romans left their mark on the cityscape with the construction of temples, baths, and a large theatre, reflecting Volterra's importance as a cultural and administrative centre in the region.

When the Roman Empire declined, Volterra, like many other cities, faced periods of instability and conflict. It endured invasions by barbarian tribes and witnessed the rise and fall of various ruling powers. However, its strategic location atop a defensible hill provided some protection, allowing it to retain its significance through the turbulent times of the Middle Ages.

During the medieval period, Volterra became a free commune, asserting its autonomy from feudal lords and establishing itself as a thriving centre of commerce and craftsmanship. The city's wealth grew from its production of alabaster, a prized material for sculpture and decoration, which remains an important part of Volterra's craftsmanship to this day.

Medici rule

In the 15th century, Volterra came under the control of the powerful Medici family of Florence, marking the beginning of its integration into the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Under Medici rule, Volterra experienced a period of relative stability and cultural patronage, with notable artists such as Andrea della Robbia leaving their mark on the city's churches and public spaces.

Magnificent palaces, churches, and towers rose within the city walls, showcasing the wealth and artistic sophistication of its inhabitants.

The subsequent centuries saw Volterra weathering the political upheavals of Italy, from the Napoleonic Wars to the Risorgimento, Italy's unification movement. Despite these challenges, the town retained its distinct character, with its medieval streets, Renaissance palaces and ancient ruins.

The modern era

In the modern era, Volterra has embraced tourism while preserving its cultural heritage and traditional way of life. Visitors can explore its archaeological sites, wander through its artisan workshops and enjoy the flavours of Tuscan cuisine in its trattorias and osterias.

Volterra is rich in artistic heritage that can be admired while walking through the streets of the historic centre. Volterra is an easy town to walk around but it does have some steep inclines. It has several museums including the Ecomuseum of Alabaster, the Etruscan Museum and the Museum of Sacred Art.

The art gallery Pinacoteca and the Civic Museum gather artworks of significant historical and artistic value and display them in the rooms of the Palazzo Minucci-Solaini. Continue walking and you'll find Piazza San Giovanni with the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Baptistery of San Giovanni, important examples of local medieval architecture.

Adjacent to the cathedral, the Palazzo dei Priori towers above the piazza of the same name. Construction of the palace began in 1208, making it the oldest municipal building in Tuscany. The facade features heraldic shields in stone and terracotta, representing ruling families after Volterra became part of the Duchy of Tuscany in 1472.

Just outside the town centre, near the medieval walls, are the remains of the splendid Roman Theatre of Volterra. Excavations that began in 1950 dated the construction of the theatre to around the end of the 1st century BCE and brought to light part of the original stairways that were built using the natural slope in a style similar to that of Greek theatres.

There are about 20 rows of seats still visible and it's estimated that the entire theatre must have held around 3,500 spectators. The Roman theatre was abandoned at the end of the third century CE and thermal baths were installed.

At the northern end of the city is the Badia di San Giusto, an important Camaldolese monastery founded in 1034 by the bishop of Volterra and dedicated to the patron saint of the city. The abbey is worth a visit for the well-preserved cloister and refectory, and for the spectacular panorama it offers.

More information:

Volterra, Italy: Tourist Info about Volterra in Tuscany, Italia

Photos © Judy Barford