Hanoi is a most beguiling city. Densely populated and heavily trafficked – an estimated five million motorbikes among a population of seven million people – but not fast-paced or clamorous. And all around there are shaded parks and lakes offering peace and tranquillity.

Hanoi has preserved its past far better than its bigger cousin to the south and in so doing has created a cultural city that is authentically Vietnamese to its core.

Stepping out into the sea of traffic to cross the road, newcomers fear for their lives, but the riders and drivers steer sedately around you and I have yet to see a pedestrian struck by a vehicle. Hanoi is an easy and safe city for walking, day or night.

Hanoi is set out along the Red River, which has three main bridges crossing it. The oldest and the first steel bridge is the Long Bien Bridge (below), designed by Gustave Eiffel and completed in 1903. 

It was heavily bombed in the Vietnam War and today is used only by pedestrians, bikes and trains. A lively wholesale market is held at the city entrance to the bridge. Just to the south is the newer Chuong Duong Bridge, and north of the city, servicing the airport, is the Thang Long Bridge.

If you're a first-time visitor you'll hear a lot about the old quarter and the French quarter and it may sound like they're one and the same area, but they're not.

Hanoi old quarter is located to the north of the centrally situated Hoan Kiem Lake and was built purposely between the Imperial Citadel and the Red River as it was considered an advantageous area for trade development.

Old quarter's history dates back to the 11th century when Emperor Ly Thai To, moved the capital from Ninh Binh to Hanoi. After this historical decision, many merchants gathered around the royal palace in order to sell their products and over time organised themselves into craft cooperatives and guilds. All the streets were called "Hang", which means merchandise or shop, followed by the name of their particular product such as Hang Bac (jewellery), Hang Ma (paper product), Hang Duong (sugar) and Hang Muoi (salt). 

There were originally 36 streets in the quarter and although the district is still sometimes called The 36 Streets, there are more like 76 streets there today. Some are still grouped by what they sell, with names to match, such as Hang Dau (shoes and sandals) and Hang Gai (silks), but most are now more diversified.

Turning now to Hanoi's French quarter, this is situated to the south-east of Hoan Kiem Lake and is known for its high-end stores and colonial-era architecture. It makes for a fascinating contrast to the crumbling and colourful buildings you pass in the old quarter and is more tranquil. With its tree-lined streets and wider pavements it is home to the Opera House, upmarket malls and foreign embassies. 

While the district is identifiable by the grandiose architecture and boutique shops, the Vietnamese people have made it their own, creating a unique blend of cultures. If you want peace and quiet while you stroll, the French quarter is the place to head for.

Situated in the very centre of Hanoi, Hoan Kiem Lake is one of the most popular historical attractions for tourists and locals alike. Known for its peaceful atmosphere and commanding position, Hoan Kiem Lake is more than just a place to relax, it's the site of an ancient legend that dates back to the 15^th century.

The legend is too long to recite here but suffice it to say that the emperor of the day, Le Loi, used a particular sword in the fight against Chinese oppressors, and after they were overpowered he returned the sword to the lake from whence it came. The lake was then named Hoan Kiem, which means Lake of the Returned Sword. 

In the middle of the lake is Turtle Tower above), sometimes called Tortoise Tower, but known in the Vietnamese language as Thap Rua. The tower has a unique combination of local Vietnamese and French colonial architecture and was built in 1886.

Nowadays, the Lake of The Returned Sword has a much more peaceful life and visitors tend to view Thap Rua from a distance, although they visit Ngoc Son Temple (below) in droves. 

Ngoc Son Temple, or the Temple of the Jade mountain, is also situated on an island at the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake. To get there you have to cross the red-coloured Huc or Sunbeam Bridge.

The Huc Bridge was built in 1865 during the reign of King Tu Duc with the aim of connecting Ngoc Son Temple to the shore. No one seems to know how the crossing was made before the bridge was built, but I assume it was by boat. 

This bridge has a curved shape which, together with its 16 pairs of legs, gives the structure a shrimp-like appearance. It has a deck paved with wooden boards and the handrails and legs are painted vermillion red. In Vietnam and other East Asian countries red is a positive colour associated with good fortune.

Ngoc Son Temple is dedicated to Confucian and Vietnam national hero, Tran Hung Dao. It was originally a small temple but was expanded in 1865 when the bridge was built.

Hoan Kiem Lake is a perfect place to sit and observe the Hanoian pace of life. The site is a source of pride for those living in the city, and they delight in showing it off to visitors.

Next time: a look at some of Hanoi's most prominent buildings.

Useful links

​ Best things to do in Hanoi - Lonely Planet