Wiesbaden, the capital of the German state of Hesse, is one of the oldest spa towns in Europe and a destination that has been attracting visitors to its thermal springs since Roman times.
Add the somewhat less healthy (on the wallet) pursuit of gambling in the early 19thCentury and Wiesbaden's status as a major destination soared.
Royalty and the aristocracy and a cosmopolitan collection of the rich, artistic, famous and indeed infamous – from throughout Europe- would head to Wiesbaden for extended stays.
Mercifully spared Allied wartime bombing that all but destroyed the nearby city of Frankfurt, Wiesbaden is, today, as charming, sophisticated and relaxing a city as it ever was.
Its architectural splendour is enhanced by tree-lined avenues and large areas of parks and gardens.
And there remains the chance to take the thermal spa waters and also to take a chance of winning, or losing, a Euro or two at the majestic casino.
Wiesbaden also enjoys a fine reputation for arts and culture and stages a number of festivals and open air concerts that can give an added value to any visit.
Gateway to the Rheingau
Wiesbaden also acts as the gateway to the Rheingau wine-growing region and is a short drive – or Rhine river cruise – to Rüdesheim, one of Germany's biggest tourist draws.
Real rewards in Wiesbaden
The Spa Gardens
There is always a certain risk in deciding to visit a relatively unknown destination.
Of course, this internet age enables us to gather a veritable library of information on anywhere.But those all important personal recommendations are likely to be in short supply.
And yet, while taking a risk with a destination is, well risky, the rewards in finding somewhere that exceeds expectations can be all the greater.
This is certainly the case with Wiesbaden
Well down the list of popular German places to visit, Wiesbaden has a great deal to offer as a short break destination.
It is a relaxed, sophisticated, historically splendid and very green city.
Here for the water
While this area of Rhine land was known for its thermal springs when a Roman settlement, and was attracting spa tourists during the Middle Ages, the Wiesbaden visitors will enjoy today was built in a flourish of architectural activity mainly between 1750 and 1910.
This first real development boom came to support the demand, from the rich and famous, for Wiesbaden's natural hot springs.
Its 26 bathhouses served the steady procession of health tourists.
Many of these remain today and continue to provide an everlasting supply of thermal water at a constant 66 degrees.
The chance to win – or lose – a Euro or two
In 1771, Wiesbaden was also granted its gambling concession and in 1810, the Wiesbaden Spielbank (casino) opened in the old Kurhaus.
The combination of spa and gambling proved irresistible to the 'glitterati' of the 18th and early 19th Century
Russian author Fjodor Dostojewsky, who had a gambling addiction, is said to have lost all his money in the casino in 1865 before using the experience as inspiration for his 1866 novel The Gambler.
And Johannes Brahms, who was also a regular visitor, composed his Symphony No. 3 in Wiesbaden in the summer of 1883.
Germany's turbulent more recent history saw tourism to Wiesbaden, like the rest of the country, fall away.
But in more recent times the city has seen a surge in interest from those looking for a short break to somewhere a little off the usual tourism track. And Wiesbaden is very well equipped to take advantage of this.
Today's celebrities however, are more likely to be Elton John, Rod Stewart, Placedo Domingo and the other stars who perform their hits at the open air concerts staged on the Bowling Green.
Around and about Wiesbaden
The Schlossplatz
Most cities have, at their heart, a square, place or plaza and Wiesbaden's case it is the Schlossplatz (Palace Square), which forms the heart of the city centre.
The palace itself was built for William, Duke of Nassau between 1837 and 1841and was first the home of the dukes' and then as a secondary residence for the King of Prussia between 1866 and 1918.
The building has also been a headquarters for French and British occupying forces after World War I, as a museum and is now the Landtag (parliamentary building) for the federal state of Hesse.
Many restaurants, bars and cafes cluster the square and the narrow alleyways that lead off it.
The Kurhaus spa House
From the Schlossplatz it is a short walk to the oh so impressive neo-Classical Kurhaus (spa house"), which was built on the orders of Kaiser Wilhelm II between 1904 and 1907.
The building is now one of the finest 'community centres' around, staging a range of public events and activities in its magnificent atrium and performances in its grand concert hall.
Also located in the Kurhaus is the Spielbank (casino), which during the 19th century, was one of a small clutch of the world's must play establishments. Those to try their luck included Richard Wagner and Johannes Brahms.
Bowling Green
In front of the Kurhaus the large area of lawn with fountains, known as the Bowling Green, is where the annual open air live concerts are staged.
The Spa Gardens
The rear of the Kurhaus are English-style gardens and a boating lake with an outdoor restaurant. This is indeed a fine place to rest awhile and enjoy something to eat with a cold glass of apfelwein (dry cider).
The Neroberg
The Neroberg, which is Wiesbaden´s hillside area, is one of the most popular spots with great views over the city
One of Wiesbaden's defining landmarks is the Russian Orthodox Church of Saint Elizabeth on the Neroberg.
A good way to get up the hill is by riding Nerobergbhan funicular railway, which opened in 1888, and is one of the world's few funiculars with water propulsion.
At the upper station, tanks on the downbound car are filled with up to 7,000 litres of water to ensure that it is heavier than the upbound car, which it then pulls uphill.
The Wiesbaden spas
While it is an over used phrase, a visit to Wiesbaden really will not be complete without a trip to a spa - with a visit to the Kaiser-Friedrich-Therme my personal recommendation.
Kaiser Friedrich Baths
Even seasoned spa users will be stunned by this remarkable spa.
Built on the site of an old Roman sauna, the Kaiser- Friedrich-Therme has been lovingly restored to offer spa treatments amid the grandeur enjoyed during the times of Emperor Wilhelm.
Today's visitors can enjoy the same Russian steam stone steam bath and Finnish sauna and cold-water dipping bath and swimming pool that have been stunning clients for over two hundred years.
More recent additions include a tropical ice rain shower, sand bath and a range of massage and cosmetic treatments.
Several hotels also offer their own spa packages and you should check out the historic Radisson Blu Schwarzer Bock Hotel.
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wiesbaden
The Rheingau
The Rheingau is the wine-growing region on the right hand bank of the Rhein between Wiesbaden and Rüdesheim.
The warm climate and sunny, south-facing slopes have been growing wine since Roman times.
Some of the world's finest rieslings are grown in the vineyards of the Taunus hills between Wiesbaden and Rüdesheim.
Rheingau wines to look out for Schloss Johannisberg, Schloss Vollrads and Kloster Eberbach.
The pleasing climate also goes a long way to explaining why the area is so popular with visitors.
Wiesbaden to Rüdesheim
A trip from Wiesbaden to Rüdesheim makes for a very pleasant day trip and provides the chance to take in :
Schloss Johannisberg
Schloss Johannisberg, one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in the world, has been making wine for over 900-years.
Today visitors can tour the beautiful hilltop winery and estate grounds.
Its Wein-Cabinet or wine shop is in the estate's former pressing house and visitors can also have a look at the original press.
It was here that Germany's first, sweet wines were produced.
The estate offers guided tours with tastings and a wine bar.
www.schloss-johannisberg.de/en
Eberbach Abbey
Eberbach Abbey, a former Cistercian monastery near Eltville am Rhein in the Rheingau, is one of the most significant architectural heritage sites in Hesse.
It was founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvauxand over the centuries became one of the largest and most active monasteries of Germany.It was dissolved in 1803.
The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey
The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey were, at 300 hectares, the largest in medieval Europe.
The Eberbach Abbey is now managed by a Foundation, which is responsible for conserving the architectural and cultural essence of the abbey and maintaining the historical tradition of wine production.
Eberbach Abbey is open to visitors who can also taste and purchase the wine.
Rüdesheim
Rüdesheim is a winemaking town in the Rhine Gorge, which in turn is part of the areas UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Drosselgasse
The old town alleyways and particularly the Drosselgasse are narrow promenades that take visitors past any number of traditional German bars, restaurants, museums and gift shops.
This town is one of Germany's biggest tourist attractions and it 's no surprise to find it awash with visitors at most times during the season.
While in Rüdesheim I would also
urge a visit to Siegfrieds
Mechanisches Musikkabinett and a cable car or chair lift ride up to the Niederwald Monument.
Siegfrieds Mechanisches Musikkabinett
Siegfrieds Mechanisches Musikkabinett is a wonderful museum of historic data-storage musical instruments.
These include the orchestrion, which weighs tons, the Hupfeld Phonoliszt Violina with six strings and the world's only Hupfeld Violina Orchestra.
The Niederwalddenkmal monument
The Niederwalddenkmal monument is in the Niederwald Landscape park and was constructed to commemorate the foundation of the German Empire after the end of Franco-Prussian War.
The Niederwalddenkmal is on the edge of a forest and with fine views of Rudesheim and the Rhine.
Up and down
To get to the Niederwald monument one can walk via foot-paths or by taking the cable car that takes riders through the hillside grape vines.
An alternative is from Assmannshausen, just down the Rhine, where the trip to the northern top of the Niederwald is by chairlift with a pleasant 45-minute forest walk to the monument.
A place to stay in Rüdesheim
The Hotel Lindenwirt
The Hotel Lindenwirt, which is situated in the very heart of the historical Rüdesheim, is also an ever-popular restaurant serving traditional fare and wines from its own vineyard.
Guests have the option of staying in a converted wine barrel for a unique, if a little cramped, lodging experience.
The facts
Useful links
www.wiesbaden.de