From the safety of our Land Cruiser we watched the leopard staring down at us disdainfully, from where it lay stretched out on the branches of a marula tree. It had just finished devouring its kill, letting the remains drop to the ground where they were quickly snatched up by scavenging hyenas.
Leopards usually hoist their killed prey of any substantial size high up into trees – often with great difficulty – to prevent it being stolen by hyenas and lions. Hyenas will hang around the base of the trees waiting for scraps to fall.
We had arrived here in the Greater Kruger region after our stopover in Johannesburg, the subject of my last feature. Judy and I travelled with Airlink, which flies daily from both Johannesburg and Cape Town direct to Skukuza, a small private airport inside Kruger National Park.
The airport also serves the southern section of the adjacent Sabi Sand game reserve, which is where we were headed. It's a one-hour flight from Joburg and the delightful Skukuza Airport makes you feel as though you're already in the bush the moment you arrive. After collecting your luggage you take your pre-arranged transfer in an off-road vehicle to the lodge of your choice.
The two Kruger parks
The Greater Kruger region lies to the west of, and should not be confused with, the well-known Kruger National Park. The latter is a state-sponsored national park managed by SANParks, while the former is a collection of private game reserves, of which Sabi Sand is one.
Sabi Sand is a 65,000-hectare paradise for wildlife photographers, outdoor adventurers or anyone simply looking for a holiday that gets the adrenaline pumping.
Sabi Sand shares a border with the national park, a 50-kilometre unfenced boundary across which wildlife is free to wander. The Sabie and Sand Rivers run through the reserve, adding a further dimension to the biodiversity of the area.
Know the differences
If you are staying at one of the private lodges you are free to go into Kruger National Park, but the reverse does not apply; no day visitors are allowed in the private game reserves, you must stay at one of the many well-appointed lodges that can be found in each reserve.
With their private facilities and guided safaris, the lodges offer unparalleled opportunities for game viewing. What's more the guides and rangers are allowed to drive off-road and follow wildlife into the bush, something that is strictly forbidden in Kruger National Park.
However, you can day-visit, self-drive and camp in the national park, but you must not drive after dark and you can be fined if you do. But in Greater Kruger your afternoon game drive will often extend well into the evening, providing opportunities to see nocturnal animals and witness the extraordinary brightness of the stars in an ink-black sky untarnished by city lights.
Where to stay
In terms of park or reserve I'm not recommending one over the other, each has its own advantages and the wildlife is prolific in both, but if you are on a tight budget you may prefer the state-sponsored national park rather than the more expensive private lodges. Skukuza Airport is conveniently situated for Kruger Park's Skukuza Main Camp, where a wide range of accommodation is available from campsites to bungalows to guest houses.
The private game reserves contain a varied selection of lodges ranging from affordable-expensive to high-end luxurious. Somewhere in the middle of this range sits Notten's Bush Camp, a delightful safari lodge operated by the Notten family, now fourth generation landowners. There are nine private suites, all elegantly styled, spacious and cooled by ceiling fans.
We stayed in suite number 9, close to the camp's reception, shop, pool and dining areas. The lodge's facilities are superb yet authentic to the bush environment. Rates start at around $647 per person per night and include three meals, accommodation, two game drives and a bush walk per day, local soft drinks, house wines and beers. The management and staff strive tirelessly to give you an experience you will never forget.
No electric light gives authentic bush experience
Note that the suites at Notten's have limited electrical power and no electric lighting. This is a deliberate omission designed to create an intimate atmosphere and a more authentic African bush experience. But fear not, there is no ghastly regimentation, if you find it difficult to cope with the limited lighting provided by paraffin lanterns and candles, the staff are happy to loan you an electric lantern. There is full electric light and power in the public areas of the camp, but even so it's best to limit the number of electrical appliances you take with you.
The suites come with open-plan bedroom and en-suite bathroom and all have both indoor and outdoor shower facilities. All windows and sliding doors are fitted with screens, and insect coils are provided. Each suite leads onto a private wooden deck with a beautiful view of the bush.
Adventurous game drives
There are early-morning and late afternoon game drives (included in the price) in open-top 4x4 vehicles, with an experienced guide and a tracker to find you the best sightings. The wildlife is so abundant there is a good chance you will see the so-called Big Five – elephant, buffalo, rhino, lion and leopard – within your first 24 hours there. There is also the option of a walking safari after the morning drive, accompanied by an armed guide. The rest of each day is at leisure.
On the second day we saw this magnificent male lion and followed him into the bush for several hundred metres.
He was striding along so purposefully we were curious about where he was going. We soon discovered where his interest lay, as the photos above reveal.
The lion may be king but in Sabi Sand he is outnumbered by the leopard, at least in terms of sightings. The spotted feline is seen so frequently here that one becomes almost blasé about the sightings.
All wild animals become used to safari vehicles to a certain extent, but the leopard is breathtakingly indifferent, walking right past your vehicle without so much as an upward glance.
Of the two rhino species in Africa, the black rhino is "critically endangered" with only around 5,000 remaining in South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, and Kenya.
White rhino are classified as "near threatened". There are now around 20,000 living across Africa, yet the increase in poaching levels is once again threatening these populations. Decades of poaching has decimated both species as unscrupulous traders and profiteers continue to meet an insatiable demand in Asia for the illusory medicinal benefits of ground rhino horn.
The subspecies western black rhino and northern white rhino are now extinct in the wild, with only two remaining northern white rhino living at Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya.
The "black" and "white" names are misnomers since both species are grey in colour and "white" is a mistranslation of the Afrikaans-German word for wide. That is a reference to the white rhino's distinctive wide mouth, the only appreciable difference between the two species.
As well as the Big Five animals, giraffe, zebra, impala, kudu, hyena and many more can all be seen at Sabi Sand, including the relatively rare African wild dog (pictured above), now known as the painted dog.
After dark, enjoy the unique sounds of the African night while relaxing in the fabulous candlelit boma, open to the sky and revealing stars that glow brighter than you will ever see back home in built-up areas. After a few days (I recommend five for the best experience) you will never want to leave.
There are many other private safari lodges in Sabi Sand to choose from including Lion Sands, Singita and Londolozi.
How to get there
DRIVE – from Johannesburg via the N12 and N4, approximately 480 kilometres, 6-7 hours. There are three entry gates to Sabi Sand – Shaws, Newington and Gowrie, with the latter being for the northern part of the reserve and farther away. All are open from 5am to 10pm and there is an entry fee of ZAR340 (about US$19) per vehicle and ZAR154 per person.
Fees for entry to Kruger National Park vary but the basic fee for overseas visitors is ZAR460 per person per day.
FLY – with Airlink from Johannesburg or Cape Town to Skukuza Airport, located within the national park. Alternatively Fly into KMIA (Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport) at Nelspruit. The lodges can arrange transfers – 45 minutes from Skukuza, two hours from KMIA.
Photos © Judy Barford