Is it busy enough (empty eateries should generally be given a very wide berth), or too busy perhaps? For no-one wants a server who is too rushed off their feet to be attentive. Then, of course, there's the menu. Is it too big, too small, too expensive, mysteriously cheap? Then the individual items on the menu. An unusual starter is sure to start the saliva flowing, a mix of flavours or ingredients never considered which catches the eye. What about value for money? Would it be worth the time and expense to make the same dish at home?

At this point there is the opportunity to simply walk past. Indecisiveness, a maladie present in many, comes and says bonjour. Google might be used – a quick check of reviews. Then it's crunch time: to go back or to continue on the hunt?

Currently living in France, with Covid rules constantly evolving, restaurants are restricted to outdoor tables for now. With the 'apéro' being the 'de rigeur' activity immediately after work, many restaurants don't open until 7pm. However, with the current curfew time set at 9pm, 7pm really is crunch time. Usually I wouldn't even consider having dinner at 7pm unless children were involved (mainly because until then children often are involve). But everything has had to be 'decalé', shifted, in accordance with the rules. There's no second sitting, no post-bar crawl arrivals.

This has inadvertently helped me with my 'maladie'. It has become a now or never, get in 'tout de suite', right now, or not at all situation. And so, two evenings on the trot (no hoof pun intended), I've found myself going in for the kill just before 7pm here in Bordeaux; just to be sure I'll be fed before it's time to retire to bed.

Being 'en terrasse uniquement', outdoor terrace service only, brings another factor in restaurant selection into play… the sun. A lot of these pavements tables, already renowned in France, weren't designed to be the sole source of income, if at all. And so they're packed more tightly, in stranger areas than ever. As you may know the French have a café/bistro/pavement culture… and are generally very happy to sit next to the exhaust fumes of constant passing traffic, beeping bin lorries, flourescent-clad moped delivery drivers… put a foot wrong from beneath your flimsy metal bistro table and you may well lose said foot.

But now, I'm pleased to say, I've mastered the art of city sun hunting. There are several things to take into consideration: the way the terrace and table is facing, naturally; the proximity of adjacent buildings, their height and the angle they're stood at; the direction the shadows the setting sun will cast; equally the shadows of the extra parasols, ever encroaching further into the centre of the squares across the city.

And so this evening I find myself in parliament square in Bordeaux, having weighed up all of these things, currently sat with one arm leaning against a light limestone façade, which has been gently warmed by the sun over the course of the day.  The sun is slowly tracking to the right through the perfect blue behind the buildings opposite, the staff friendly, attentive, and happy to put my meal 'en attente', pending, while I write, the crowd the perfect 'niveau', level – neither too much nor too little, in number or temperament, and the menu choices interesting… I've gone for cuttlefish with lardons and peppers, followed by the 10 hour black pork.

However you choose your next dining experience on a whim, 'bon appétit'.

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