AllWays Traveller Features
Luxembourg City welcomes the world
A thriving, cosmopolitan capital
Luxembourg City is the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg's thriving, cosmopolitan capital that is the benchmark for a short city break
This small constitutional monarchy, is very much heart and soul European, being bordered by Belgium, France, and Germany and as a founding member of the European Union.
The City's status one of the three official seats of the European institutions, along with Brussels and Strasbourg, makes it a progressive, 'international' city.
Luxembourg City also blends the modern city with its expansive and truly historic old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Add to this the completely free public transport throughout the city, and country, and Luxembourg City has all one could wish for in a European short city break.
It can also be easily linked with a trip to the Luxembourg Ardennes
Images above (from top) : Ashley Gibbins: djedj; djedj; Tom Fielitz; LaLa La photo; Andre Schosser
Setting the bar very bar high
Our visit to Luxembourg City on a two nigh/three days short break really did meet all of our needs and expectations.
Through the airport and to the city
Not needing to spend too long getting through security checks and baggage claim at the airport and then making one's way into the city is the first imperative.
In this respect, Luxembourg City could not have been bettered.
While Luxembourg Findel Airport is an international hub, it is relatively small and progress through is speedy and hassle free.
Getting into the city itself could not be easier.
At airport forecourt is a stop in the city's modern and very efficient tram network that saw us getting into the centre in less than 25 minutes.
This of course was also great in planning our trip back to the airport.
And it's free, as is all public transport throughout the city and, indeed, the whole country.
Again, a real bonus for those looking to hike or bike in other parts of the country.
A place to stay
This is the next box that needs ticking and it was for us with our stay at Mama Shelter, as Ann explains below.
What to do and see
Then there is the 'what to do and see'.
Luxembourg City met and exceeded our expectations in this respect.
It is not a large city, eminently walkable, and conveniently laid out on two levels.
The Kirchberg district on the upper level offers the newer, bustling part of the city with its grand buildings and city squares; museums and art galleries; bars and restaurants and city shops.
At its edge, and in complete contrast, this part of the city provides an overlook down to the UNESCO Heritage listed historic old town.
This is a maze of alleyways winding through historic buildings and wrapped in gardens and a veritable urban forest.
This makes it easy to devote ample time to each
Wining and dining
As befitting a European capital city, Luxembourg City has a wide range of cafes, bars and restaurants with most offering alfresco wining and dining.
Proudly cosmopolitan
With everything else available to visitors to Luxembourg City, it is cosmopolitan nature of the city that put the 'icing on the cake'.
Speaking to Luxembourgers, who form just over 40% of the city population, one realises they are more than happy be to be living alongside the citizens, from many other different countries.
This is a European city, indeed an international city, that obviously embraces those wanting to live, work and contribute to its developing cultural heritage.
As someone who calls London home, I appreciate this.
The country has Luxemburgish, French, German as its official languages, though English is also widely spoken.
While this all made for a truly memorable short break in Luxembourg City, it also introduced us to a city that will reward a return visit, or two, or more.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/city
Getting to know this great city
The first stop on a Luxemberg City short-break should be the tourist information centre.
Located in William Square in the historic Ville Haute quarter, it is affectionately known as Knuedler, from the Luxembourgish word for knot, which in turn refers to the knot in the belt worn by Franciscan friars.
The staff at the tourist information centre are all passionate about their city and more than happy to offer the information and advice that will make the most of a stay.
Being journalists, we come prepared with a list of questions and it really did help pave the way for a great stay.
Taking a tour
The other imperative, as far as we are concerned, is arranging a tour of the city at the outset of a stay.This may be with a personal guide, as part of a guided tour or, if these don't work out with a guided tour leaflet in hand.
All options are available via the tourist information centre.
On our visit to Luxembourg City we were lucky enough to get a two-hour walking tour with Jean-Claude Conter (above).
He was member of the Luxembourg Tourism press office, now retired, but still more than happy to support the city as a tour guide.
Speaking perfect English he is an absolute 'mine' of information and we took real advantage of this.
As we took the city promenade route, Jean-Claude pointed out everything of interest and was happy to explain the history of his city and how the Grand Duchy, its monarchy, works. He also explained how and why Luxembourgers are patriotic for their country but also committed Europeans.
On our trip we took in the grand ducal Palace, which is the official residence of the Grand Duke Guillaume; the Cathedral Notre-Dame de Luxembourg and the Place de la Constitution, which is dominated by the stunning Gëlle Fra (Golden Lady).
Standing 3.3 metres atop a 21-meter-tall granite obelisk, it was erected in 1923 to commemorate the Luxembourgers who perished in the First World War.
Today it symbolises freedom and resistance for the Luxembourg people.
Jean-Claude left us at the Chemin de la Corniche, which the city likes to consider the most beautiful balcony of Europe.
This is a pedestrian promenade that winds along the ancient city walls built in the 17th century by the Spanish and French.
It offers spectacular panoramic views of the Alzette River valley, and the historic UNESCO Heritage listed Grund district.
The city promenade route : https://www.luxembourg-city.com/en/place/tour/city-promenade
Luxembourg Tourist Information Office : https://www.luxembourg-city.com/en
A site of outstanding universal value
Luxembourg City's Old Quarters and Fortifications were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site over 20 years ago.
And while one can assume this is 'a good thing', it's perhaps worth stating that World Heritage Site is a natural or cultural site of Outstanding Universal Value.
As such, it has been inscribed on the World Heritage List by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization's (UNESCO) World Heritage Committee.
In granting Luxembourg City its World Heritage status, UNESCO highlighted the city's 'outstanding military architecture and the harmonious blend of its historical quarters with a dramatic, natural hilly landscape'.
Getting to the designated area, it becomes immediately obvious why UNESCO were so impressed.
The World Heritage Site covers some 140 hectares of the old town and the remains of its historic military defences.
These made Luxembourg one of Europe's greatest historical fortified cities.
The Wenzel Circular Route
The best way to truly appreciate Luxembourg's World Heritage is first to gaze down upon the old town from along the Corniche panorama path.
And then to spend two or three hours strolling the Wenzel Circular Route. A guided leaflet is available from the tourist information centre.
This guides you through what is some 1000-years of Luxembourg City history.
There is the Bock Rock, where Count Siegfried built his Castle of Lucilinburhuc in 963 and which resulted in the city growing up around it and Castle Bridge, built of red sandstone in 1735.
This 'old town' part of the city retains the layout of streets first laid in the 10th Century and there are Medieval public buildings, and, at the foot of the ramparts, the hoses occupied by the city's trades craftsmen.
The route was named in memory of Wenzel II, Duke of Luxembourg between 1383 and 1419. During his reign, part of the third ring wall, the so-called Wenzel Wall, was built to protect the residents of the valley.
It is possible to take the route on a guide tour.
Spending time in the adjoining old and new parts of Luxembourg City offer a real and rewarding contrast on a short break.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/tour/wenzel-circular-walk-1000-years-of-history-in-180-minutes
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/699/
Mama Shelter
Bold, bright and very funky 'cos' Mama loves you!
Mama Shelter is a funky, quirky and colourful hotel conveniently located close to the centre of Luxembourg City.
By Ann Mealor
One of the first things you notice when you walk into reception is the bold 'in your face' design, and it's the ceiling that creates the 'Wow' factor.
Designed by French artist Beniloys (who also designed the playfully decorated bedrooms), it resembles a massive blackboard that has been covered in a graffiti style chalk drawing of Luxembourg.
There is a winding blue river, green triangular trees and turreted castles.
It is quite eye-catching.
Traditional blending with modern
Traditional blends with modern throughout the hotel, and in the foyer there were Queen Anne chairs upholstered in artistic fabrics and a plush rug in a winding serpent pattern.
Giant ceramic red topped toadstools; a mirrored lift covered with handwritten messages advertising breakfast times and happy hours and fifties style gumball machines in hallways (coins required).
Our room
Our room also had a few surprises, with Bugs Bunny and Daffy Duck face masks attached to the bedside lamps, presumably to wear for in-room entertainment if so inclined!
I took mine off the shade as seeing the light shining through Bugs' eyes made him look like some sort of sci-fi Were Rabbit and rather scary!
But I appreciated the idea.
Mama loves you, which is the Mama group slogan, was etched into a large mirror, and the wooden desk table had a board game, similar to monopoly carved into its top.
The grey carpet was covered in black and white scribbled drawings, the bed was extremely comfortable, and the large TV offered free blockbuster movies.
The bathroom had a very powerful walk-in shower with top quality organic toiletries, developed in collaboration with French skincare brand, Absolution.
As part of the hotel's eco policy, there was a glass bottle of water in the fridge that you were encouraged to fill up again from the tap when empty.
As tap water is not served in Luxembourg restaurants, only bottled, I found this greener way forward encouraging as the tap water in Luxembourg is very good.
There was no coffee or tea making facilities in the room, but a kettle could be requested from reception.
Some delicious cookies from the MAMA bakery were left for us to sample, a welcome surprise and a tasty treat.
Dining at Mama Shelter
As the weather was glorious, every evening we took full advantage of the sun-kissed roof-top bar.
Its happy hour cocktails were superb and there was a great holiday vibe with music, deck chairs and the opportunity to play boules – just like being on a beach!
The main restaurant was large and vibrant with a pretty outside terrace for warm weather dining.
It had the same style spectacular ceiling as reception and featured a huge, pink marble bar.
TV screens play clips from vintage Disney movies featuring Mickey Mouse and Popeye the Sailor Man and music hums in the background.
There is a pleasant buzz about the place.
The Mama fun branding extends to condiments.
Crockery-tins of olive oil feature sculptures of naked men's torsos with olives and chillis – depending on the flavour- covering private parts and the words Virgin Mama printed across the chest.
Plate and napkin design first appear very traditional with leaves, flowers and country scenes.
However, on closer inspection I noted the girl by the river was wearing a ducky rubber ring and the young woman reclining on the bank a stylish pair of shades.
On the napkins, licking lips and studded tongues appear between the foliage.
I enjoyed the quirky humour!
The Mediterranean menu focuses on simple, well prepared quality ingredients.
We particularly enjoyed the freshly baked woodfired pizzas which were excellent.
Breakfast
Breakfast at Mama Shelter shout be savoured and lingered over as it's so good.
Light, fluffy omelettes are made to order, and the hot buffet selection includes scrambled eggs, sausage, bacon, herby mushrooms, roasted skin-on new potatoes and baked beans.
There was also a tempting cheese platter, cold sliced meats, tomatoes, radish, lettuce, fresh fruit salad, crusty bread, creamy butter, home-made banana cake, lemon cake, croissants, flaky pain au chocolat and all the usual cereals and yoghurts.
The help yourself loose leaf tea was a nice touch.
You could fill little bags with the tea of your choice – combining flavours and making it as strong or as weak as you liked.
However, the warm crepes cooked in an orange juice made it to the top of my list - small triangles of melt-in-the mouth deliciousness.
Through all its quirkiness, humour and modernity, Mama Shelter takes hospitality seriously, giving its guests a fun, friendly and memorable experience.
https://Mamashelter.com/luxembourg/
Wining and dining in Luxembourg City
It will come as no surprise to hear that Luxembourg City has any number of bars, restaurants and cafes offering a wide range of local, regional and international cuisine.
Um Dierfgen
But if I am to make a recommendation it will be Um Dierfgen.
This is a traditional Luxembourgish bar and restaurant owned and managed by Marc Berg for many years.
It is Marc who selects the local, seasonal produce for the menu offering the most popular Luxembourgish dishes.
This is a no-frills restaurant that is full of character and with very friendly staff.
It is no wonder Um Dierfgen is the go-to place for locals, and those visitors who are in the know.
If you enjoyed the Luxembourg City
The Luxembourg Ardennes offers a slower pace of life.
The Luxembourg Ardennes, also known as Éislek in Luxembourgish and Ösling in German, is the hilly, forested northern third of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.
Unlike the relatively flat rest of the country, it offers steep river valleys, plateaus and hilltop medieval chateaux (castles).
There are also sites commemorating Battle of the Bulge and Allied liberation of Luxembourg in WWII.
The Luxembourg Ardennes offers the chance to stroll picturesque historic small towns including Vianden, Esch-sur-Sûre and Clervaux.
With the region an easy 60-minute drive from Luxembourg City, it offers the chance to marry the two in a contrasting short break to fascinating a small country.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/destinations/regions/eislek
See also : AllWays leading to the Luxembourg Ardennes :
Location (Map)
About the author
Contact info
ISSN 2634-7032
London, United Kingdom
+44 0 7764 198 286