AllWays Traveller Features
The Luxembourg Ardennes
A slower pace of Luxembourg life
The Luxembourg Ardennes, also known as Éislek in Luxembourgish and Ösling in German, is the hilly, forested northern third of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.
Unlike the relatively flat rest of the country, it offers steep river valleys, plateaus and hilltop medieval chateaux (castles).
There are also sites commemorating Battle of the Bulge and Allied liberation of Luxembourg in WWII.
The Luxembourg Ardennes offers the chance to stroll picturesque historic small towns includingVianden, Esch-sur-Sûre and Clervaux.
With the region an easy 60 minute drive from Luxembourg City, it offers the chance to marry the two in a contrasting short break to fascinating a small country.
(See also : AllWays leading to Luxembourg City : https://www.allwaystraveller.com/allways-features/luxembourg-city-welcomes-the-world)
(Images : Pancake Photography; Visit Elslek; Dan Sastigla:
Discovering the Luxembourg Ardennes
Though easy to get to from Luxembourg City, its Ardennes region is a world away
By Ashley Gibbins
Ann and I had decided to add Luxembourg City to our series of AllWays leading features to European capitals and, having lock this in we were keen to explore a little more of this not very large country.
It was then I happened, by chance, to come across the Chateau d´Urspelt, a boutique hotel just outside the small town of Clervaux, in the Luxembourg Ardennes.
Taking a closer look I discovered this historic listed building has been completely restored and looked absolutely delightful (See Ann's review below).
With Chateau d´Urspelt pencilled in for our three-night trip to the region, one hopes there will be enough to do and see.
The castles
As we were staying in a castle, Ann and I decided to take a look at the other castles one can visit in the Luxembourg Ardennes.
We discovered Vianden Castle, one of the largest of European castles is Luxembourg's major tourist attraction.
Château de Clervaux, has the UNESCO listed The Family of Man photographic exhibition and the Battle of the Bulge Museum.
And there is also Bourscheid Castle with its round towers, standing on a hilltop 150 metres above the Sûre river.
Visiting these three castles would also allow us to take in the small towns that surround them and to enjoy what looked like stunning countryside found here.
We were sorted.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/destinations/regions/eislek
Getting there
Landing at Luxembourg Findel Airport, we found the getting through passport control and baggage claim to be speedy, efficient and hassle free.
As was picking up our Europecar, at the airport, locking google maps into its navigation system and driving to Chateau d´Urspelt in just over an hour.
The LuxembourgPass
Purchasing a LuxembourgPass allows one to gain free or reduced entry to attractions and activities throughout the country, including those we visited in the Luxembourg Ardennes.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/luxembourgpass
The castles dominating landscape and history
Three castles reveal the role played by castles in the Luxembourg Ardennes
Château de Clervaux
Originally dating back to the 12th century, the castle suffered severe damage in December 1944 during the Battle of the Bulge, the final major German offensive on the Western Front during World War II.
After the War, the Luxembourg government of Luxembourg acquired the castle and undertook the complete restoration.
While the castle itself is impressive, a visit is all the more memorable for the Museum of the Battle of the Bulge, on one side of the building, and The Family of Man exhibition, on the other.
The Battle of the Bulge Museum
With its collection uniforms, weapons, equipment, rations and documents, The Museum of the Battle of the Bulge provides a sombre window into the dark days of December 1944 and January 1945.
Following on from the museum are a display of 22 scale models of Luxembourg's castles.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/battle-of-the-bulge-museum-1944-45-wiltz
The Family of Man
The Family of Man photographic exhibition is a genuinely moving experience and a 'must do' when here.
Created by Edward Steichen and staged for the first time at New York's Museum of Modern Art in 1955 and, after visiting museums worldwide, it found a permanent home at Clervaux Castle since 1994.
It comprises the display of 503 photographs by 273 photographers from 68 countries and was added to UNESCO's Memory of the World Register, in 2003, in recognition of its 'profound historical and cultural value as a visual declaration of global solidarity'.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/the-family-of-man
The attractive town of Clervaux, surrounding the castle, has pedestrian streets lined with bars and restaurants.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/clervaux
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/the-family-of-man
https://www.unesco.org/en/memory-world/family-man
Vianden Castle
Vianden Castle sits majestically on top of a rocky ridge the Our River valley and the small town of Vianden itself.
The town of Vianden, below, grew up to 'service' the castle and, today, makes for a very pleasant stroll with a stop for 'a beer'.
Vianden Castle's status slowly diminished in the following centuries and in the early 19th Century it was allowed was allowed to fall into complete disrepair and ruin, with much of its stonework sold off.
In 1890 the castle came into the ownership of the Grand Ducal family, who transferred ownership to the Luxembourg state in 1977.
This allowed a major restoration programme to take place, and Vianden Castle became the fully restored medieval fortress it once was and the tourist attraction it is today.
Walking through the castle one gets to see the medieval rooms including the Knights' Hall, Byzantine Gallery, Gothic Chapel and the Count's private apartments.
From the battlements one has panoramic views of the Our Valley below.
The castle also stages an annual calendar of concerts and special events including the medieval festival every July.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/vianden-castle
Vianden
After a visit to Vianden Castle there's the chance to take in the delightful small town of Vianden itself, which sits on the banks of the Our River.
There is a fine riverside walk that can get you into the scenic valley.
Also in the town is a chairlift that gets you up to a hilltop overlooking the town and castle and where one can enjoy a beer and other refreshments while taking in the spectacular views.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/chairlift-vianden
Bourscheid Castle
Bourscheid Castle, with its round towers, sits in quiet reflection on a hillside high above the Sûre river.
The castle was first built in the 10th century and extended during the 14th and 15th centuries, when the circular wall and six Gothic towers and watchtowers were added.
The now ruined castle is classified as an historical monument and run by the Luxembourg state.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/bourscheid-castle
https://www.castle-bourscheid.lu/wp5/en/
Panoramic Platform Burfelt
Spending an hour or so at Bourscheid Castle also gave us plenty of time to get to the Belvédère Burfelt panoramic platform, in the Upper-Sûre Natural Park
It provides an outlook with stunning views over the Upper Sûre reservoir and surrounding countryside.
There are a also number of trails to and around the platform that provide the chance to 'stretch one's legs'.
https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/panoramic-platform-belvedere
Parking : https://maps.app.goo.gl/8HfdBtrH9TVkVqCv8
The chance to get out and about
The Luxembourg Ardennes offers a tremendous range of walking, hiking and cycling opportunities
Our short time in the Luxembourg Ardennes was enough to get a feel for the opportunity to explore this region on foot or by bike.
Luxembourg offers free public transport to all and, with the excellent rail and bus network available, it makes travelling with rucksack's, walking poles and bikes very easy The Luxembourg Ardennes (Éislek region) has some 200 hiking trails with routes through its deep valleys, along rocky ridges and in dense forests.
These range from offering an easy stroll through the woods to the more challenging trails for avid and bikers.
It's the chance to get well into the Our Nature Park or to take a leisurely stroll along Sûre river, and also offers a slow travel way to get to the Clervaux, Vianden the Bourscheid castles.
https://www.visit-eislek.lu/explore-nature/hiking-through-eislek
Luxembourg hiking map : file:///C:/Users/ashle/Downloads/Hiking_map_2025.pdf
Château d'Urspelt
The historic Château d'Urspelt is a fully restored 18th-century castle set in Luxembourg's beautiful Our region.
By Ann Mealor
Refurbished and decorated to a very high standard, the white walled chateau with its 'fairy tale' turrets, arched windows and pretty, central courtyard is a grand yet homely hotel.
Designated a National Monument, it is a blend of modern luxury and heritage, having played its part in The Battle of the Bulge in 1944.
As we made our way to reception, admiring the well-cut lawn (I saw the robot mower in action) and the finely shaped and trimmed hedging, you couldn't help but feel good about the place.
Walking along the (all-weather) red carpet towards the main entrance, I had high expectations of what lay behind the heavy oak door|, which opened automatically for us as we approached.
Well trained and friendly staff greeted us in the cosy reception hall, checked us in and took our luggage.
As we had arrived early, due to the very easy drive from the airport, we relaxed in the very comfortable Library lounge for an hour. Here we had a coffee and browsed through an interesting selection of books, before setting off to explore the region.
A castle room
Late afternoon, on returning from our travels, we were shown to our Castle room in the main part of the chateau overlooking the picturesque courtyard.
It was large and airy, elegantly furnished in soothing, earthy tones with splashes of colourful crimson.The natural limestone bathroom was equipped with a powerful walk-in shower and luxurious Nuxe toiletries.
Bathrobes and slippers were laid out on the chair, ready for use in the Spa.
Our hospitality tray included a selection of teas, Nespresso coffee pods and biscuits.
The Luxembourgers like a sweet treat with their hot drinks, a custom I very much approved of and enjoyed.
Dining at the Château
The main dining room at the Château is stunning. Glittering chandeliers hang from a high, oak beamed vaulted ceiling; starched, white linen covers the tables; polished wine glasses and silver cutlery sparkle in flickering candlelight and waiters weave swiftly between diners, carrying plates of mouthwatering delights to the gentle hum of contented chatter.
As we perused the three course menu we sipped a glass of top-quality Luxembourg crémant, and savoured a silky, smoked salmon canape topped with a delicate, green pea shoot - compliments of the chef.
I started with the Seafood Carbonara, a dish filled with shrimps, clams and squid. Ashley had asparagus topped with a poached egg and parsley oil.Both were excellent.
For our main course, we both chose the seared sea bass in a lobster sauce served on a bed of fregola cooked in squid ink.Decorated with colourful, edible flowers it looked a picture on our plates and tasted just as good.
We left room for dessert which was not to be missed.
After much deliberation, we went for the'Carrot Garden' - carrot, chocolate and luscious vanilla ice cream - an unlikely pairing -but it worked as did the Pistachio entremets – a creamy mousse with a liquid cardamom centre and a crunchy pistachio exterior.
It looked and tasted delightful - a green dome topped and surrounded by orange edible flowers.
The efficient, considerate service, careful presentation, creativity and mix of flavours made this a wonderful gourmet experience from start to finish.
Breakfast
Breakfast at the Château is a morning feast worth getting up early for.Give yourself time to linger and plan your menu, with so much on offer, it's hard to know where to start.
I wanted to try everything, but sadly knew that was impossible. After finding a table, I went to take a closer look at my options.
On the cold buffet was sliced pineapple, melon, berries and passion fruit – all incredibly sweet; smoked salmon, cheeses, sliced meats and all the condiments; on the hot plates were scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, hard and soft-boiled eggs.
There was a selection of crusty breads, rolls and homemade jams and gateaux– donuts, coconut macaroons, chocolate brownies, banana bread and apple cake, plus honey from the Chateau's own hives.
Pastries included pain au chocolat and buttery croissants.
There was a juicer with large pieces of chopped fruit to make your own smoothies, or if you preferred, you could help yourself to a glass of crémant.
It goes without saying that coffee, teas, cereals, yoghurts, nuts, seeds, olives, tomatoes were all available too.
It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of walking and touring the Our region.
Nuxe Spa
The Nuxe Spa is beautifully designed and time spent unwinding in its saunas, steam rooms and whirlpools makes for a very peaceful morning or afternoon.
There is a grotto,a series of small underground caves with coloured lighting and waterfalls that can be explored at leisure, with places tucked away to sit and relax enroute before reaching the massage jets at the end.
Guests pay a fee to access the Spa, but if you have a treatment, use of the Spa is included.
I decided to have a 45-minute Essential Facial which included an aromatic facial scrub and a very relaxing massage expertly performed by Jessica.
The treatment room was lit by candles, soothing music was playing in the background and the bed was warm and comfortable.
Hot face towels were applied to be my face throughout the treatment and the massage with neroli oil was thorough as well as relaxing – it was one of the best facial massages I have had.
Following my treatment, I sat and chilled out with a herbal tea in front of the firepit in one of the many tranquil rest areas before heading back to my room fully relaxed.
https://www.chateau-urspelt.lu/en
If you enjoyed the Luxembourg Ardennes
Luxembourg City sets the bar very high
Luxembourg City is the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg's thriving, cosmopolitan capital that is the benchmark for a short city break
The City's status one of the three official seats of the European institutions, along with Brussels and Strasbourg, makes it a progressive, 'international' city.
Luxembourg City also blends the modern city with its expansive and truly historic old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Add to this the completely free public transport throughout the city, and country, and Luxembourg City has all one could wish for in a European short city break.
https://www.luxembourg-city.com/en
See also : AllWays leading to the Luxembourg City : https://www.allwaystraveller.com/allways-features/luxembourg-city-welcomes-the-world
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