Western Colorado offers some of the most spectacular scenery in this state that overflows with mountain landscapes. 

While most visitors travel to Denver and Rocky Mountain National Park in the northeast part of the state, I wanted to see the fall colors that cover Colorado from Grand Junction to Durango. 

My travels would also stop in Aspen , Telluride and Mesa Verde National Park along three Scenic Byways through the Rocky Mountains to the cliff dwellings of the southwestern corner of the state.​

I could see the high mesas and red rock canyons of the Colorado National Monument as I travelled along Interstate 70 approaching Grand Junction, You drive along the ridge tops to various lookouts that give you a panorama of this part of Colorado. The shapes and colors of this area reminded me of the Sedona area of Arizona.

​Grand Junction

Grand Junction is named for the confluence of the Colorado and Gunnison rivers. It is a prime area for mountain biking and white water rafting. My first morning in Colorado was overcast and so I headed east to the town of Rifle.

A few miles north of town is one of the best triple waterfalls in the state, Rifle falls. The 3 arms of the falls drop about 70 feet over a green covered cliff face to spill onto the rocks below. The falls feed Rifle creek with the cold fresh waters that are home to rainbow, brown, and cutthroat trout. Cloudy days are great to photograph foliage and waterfalls as the light is soft and even.

​Aspen

I arrived at my next stop in the early afternoon, Aspen. 

I headed up the Maroon Creek road to see the most photographed mountains in Colorado, The Maroon Bells. These bell shaped peaks soar14,000 ft. above the Maroon Valley. I was stunned by the amount of color as I travelled up the ten miles of road to my destination. The aspens were various shades of yellow, gold, and brown mixed with the green of those that had not turned due to the frosty fall air. A short walk from the parking area brings you to one of the best mountain views in U.S.A.

The Maroon Bells were shrouded in clouds when I arrived at the head of the valley around 5 P.M. You cannot drive cars to the Bells except before 8 A.M. and after 5 P.M. Otherwise you must take the bus into the valley. Cars are charged a $10 entrance fee when they are allowed. 

The wind made ripples on the lake that normally reflects the peaks on a clear day. I marveled at the various hues that turned the valley into a palette of fall colors. I breathed in the clean mountain air and decided to return the next morning to wander the aspen groves nearby.

Aspen sits at the end of a long narrow valley. One of most famous ski towns in Colorado is still crowded in late September but much more pleasant than ski season. This mountain town is home to many gourmet and eclectic eating places as well as some of the high end shopping boutiques of larger cities. 

My evening in Aspen was spent with an easy walk about town enjoying its many amenities. The clouds persisted the next morning, but undeterred I walked some of the various paths off the parking areas that dot the Maroon Valley. It was invigorating to be surrounded by this natural envelope of colors. 

The fallen leaves made a yellow carpet as I walked and absorbed almost all sound. The only sound was the leaves rustling when the wind would blow through the forest.

Telluride

The morning passed too quickly and it was time to move on to my next destination in the mountains, Telluride. 

I chose to follow the West Elk Loop Scenic Byway out of Carbondale. It is also known as Colorado Highway 133.One hour south of Aspen in the Elk mountains sits the old town of Marble. Small art studios display marble creations and blocks of marble dot the roadside. 

Marble from this area was used in the Lincoln Memorial and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Washington D.C.I was interested in visiting the old Crystal Mill but the four wheel drive road to get there was impassable. I received an unexpected bonus as we passed the serene waters of Beaver Lake. The calm waters reflected the colorful yellow and green hillsides above  

We crested McClure Pass and a few sun breaks made the aspens glow on the mountain sides. The highway dropped down into the area of Montrose and the cutoff to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. This national park was not on our agenda and I continued south from Ridgway to the San Juan Skyway over the8,900 foot high Dallas Divide towards Telluride.

This former mining town was formed in the late 1880's and is now a renown skiing destination. 

It sits in a box canyon in the San Juan Mountains. One main street divides the old western buildings of the town and makes for a pleasant stroll as you look at the surrounding mountains reflecting the late afternoon sun. During the fall the sidewalks roll up early during the week so arrive by early afternoon to enjoy this earthy western town. 

It is a nice change from the ritzy Aspen. A visit to the historic Sheridan Hotel with its 1890's wooden bar is a highlight and gives you the feel of the boomtown it once served.There is a free gondola service from the nearby Mountain Village down into town and the ride has some of the best views on this side of the Rockies.

The San Juan Skyway follows the western divide of the Rockies as its winds south from Telluride on highway 145.It contains dramatic hillsides covered with fall foliage along its twisting path over the 10,000 foot high Lizard Pass through the Rockies toward the 14,000 foot peaks of Mt. Wilson and El Diente. I have never seen so much spectacular fall foliage in one area as I have on this trip.

The colors of Colorado begin to change as you reach the southern end of the Rockies and the yellows and greens change to brown and red. 

The San Juan Skyway

The San Juan Skyway meets the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway in Dolores. The Trail of the Ancients is the only scenic byway dedicated to archaeology.

It is 116 miles long and in addition to Mesa Verde National Park, it visits the Four Corners where Colorado, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico share a border and two national monuments dedicated to the culture and  architecture of the Ancestral Pueblo people who built them.

The forest covered mountains now become high mesas with sagebrush and bristlecone pines. The Byways part at Mesa Verde National Park. The cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde are some of the best preserved in the world and the park contains 5000 archeological sites. The Cliff Palace site has 150 rooms. I took the walking tour of this huge complex. The Ranger led tour guides you among the towers, Kivas, and pathways of this largest complex in the park. Kiva is a Hopi word meaning "ceremonial room."

I could almost visualize the people who lived here climbing the ladders to their apartments or sitting in the Kivas performing their religious ceremonies. I started my tour in warm sunshine and ended the tour an hour later in a cold and windy rain shower as I climbed the wooden ladders back to the top of the mesa.

Weather here can change rapidly. I experienced everything for sunshine to high winds, cold rain and even a little snow. Be prepared for all weather conditions when visiting Colorado at this time of year.

You must get your tickets to visits those sites that have walking tours at the Visitor Center as you enter the park. Plan ahead as tours are limited and you may not be able to take more than one a day during the peak summer season.

Many of the dwellings can be seen from the viewpoints along the roadways but climbing the wooden ladders and walking on the paths taken by the ancient residents brings home their unusual way of life.

The clouds parted late in the afternoon as I drove the two loop roads at Chapin Mesa and stopped at various overlooks to view the cliff dwellings. Chapin Mesa is where most of the best sites are located and I spent all my time here. 

Wetherhill Mesa

Wetherhill Mesa has some good sites too but the road closes in early October. Square Tower House was beautifully lit by the afternoon sun and glowed a reddish orange hue. Spruce Tree House is a large complex and the best preserved. It is easily viewed from the grounds outside the Chapin Mesa Museum. 

A great view of a distant Cliff Palace complex across the Cliff Canyon can be seen at Sun Point on Mesa Top Loop along with Oak Tree House. I could not imagine how difficult building these intricate villages in the cliffs must of been. This unique and spectacular park should be on everyone's bucket list.

I finished my trip through Western Colorado by visiting the town of Durango. 

The town is the southern terminus of the Durango and Silverton narrow gauge railroad that travels over the eastern part of the San Juan Skyway pulled by a steam locomotive. Durango has a touristy western flavor with numerous shops and western themed bars and restaurants to satisfy most everyone. The historic Strater Hotel built in 1887 is only two blocks from the railroad station and has one of the largest Victorian antique collections you have ever seen.

I will have to come back and explore this area more my next time visiting the colorful vistas of Colorado.

Useful links

​ www.colorado.com