AllWays Traveller Features
The finest of French Alpine experiences
Morzine is a traditional Alpine resort in the French Alps
It is located in the heart of the Portes du Soleil, one of the world's largest ski areas.
As such, Morzine offers excellent and expansive skiing and snowboarding for all levels, along with a wide range of other wintertime activities.
And in late afternoon and evening Morzine comes into its own with fine apres ski opportunities to suit all tastes and palates.
Morzine is also an increasingly popular summer destination for those who enjoy active pursuits including mountain biking and Alpine hiking.
In either season the stunning French Alps are an enveloping and energising backdrop.
All one could wish for in an Alpine getaway
The French Alps resort of Morzine is going to be well known and highly regarded by regular ski and snowboard enthusiasts.
By Ashley Gibbins
But is Morzine suited to the novice?
Or to those like Ann who, reaching 60 has never skied but would like to do so.
While, getting out and about in the French Alps certainly appeals, I have no inherent desire to be 'slip, sliding away' on a pair of long, narrow runners.
Spoiler alert on both counts. Yes!
A great time in the Alps
Ann and I paid a first weeklong visit to Morzine in early March, so towards the end of the winter season.
She to start learning to ski, as a slightly more elderly absolute novice, and I to see what there was to enjoy as a relatively active non-skier.
This also gave us time to take in in the car free mountain resort of Avoriaz that sits high above Morzine.
Those who decide not to ski or snowboard all the way back down have the Prodains Express cable car and then a free shuttle bus back to Morzine.
By the time we left Morzine, Ann had become a really quite proficient skier and found it to be genuinely enthralling (as she writes below).
She is looking forward to getting back on her skis.
I took advantage of everything else that this part of the French Alps has to offer and enjoyed an invigorating and truly bracing experience.
Not skiing in no way meant losing out.
When Ann returns to Morzine to become even more proficient on her skis, I will jump (not ski-jump) at the chance to join her.
Having tasted the French Alps in winter, we are also keen to get back to the mountains in summer.
I know this will offer a totally different, yet equally rewarding experience.
Skiing for the mature beginner in Morzine
By Ann Mealor
I have always wanted to ski.
To glide effortlessly down soft, snowy slopes, enjoying stunning mountain views whilst heading towards a snug alpine bar serving warm wine or indulgent hot chocolate.
Alas, however, I have never skied the dream.
I find this disappointing as I am a competent horse rider and therefore have good sense of balance.
So, I should be good on snow and skis.
But, after an unsuccessful trip to Tignes, France 23 years ago when a beginner slid into me damaging my knee, I felt fear every day.
Swaying chair lifts and steep, icy slopes filled me with dread and much to my chagrin, I wasn't tempted back to the snow until five years ago.
Ashley and I went to Samoans in French Alps and had a two-hour ski lesson.
While that was it, I quite enjoyed the experience, and here I am in Morzine ready to give skiing a proper go.
On arrival
On arriving at our chalet in Morzine I was equipped with skis, boots, poles and helmet.
However, the next day, walking to the ski lift, weighed down in my cumbersome gear, I felt, with some trepidation, like an astronaut on a mission to the moon or a diver heading to the bottom of the sea.
I shuffled uneasily towards the cable car, hoping I would make it on before the doors closed.
I did, and we started our journey upwards.
As we went higher, I could only think what if…
On safely reaching the top, I lumbered out of the gondola in my ten tonne boots, before it headed back down again.
I had made it to the bottom of the beginner's slopes and was in the right place to meet my instructor.
It was Matt from the Ecole du Ski Français (ESF), a young Frenchman who was finishing his last season on the slopes before starting a career as a rocket scientist.
I felt I was in safe hands
Matt first showed me how to put on my skis, and we slid slowly over towards the Magic Carpet.
This a travelator similar to the ones they have in airports.
It looked easy enough to get on, but as my skis hit the rolling carpet I was pulled forward and nearly lost my balance.
However, once on I was able to stay upright.
Getting off was much trickier
After nearly hitting the deck on exit, Matt said I needed to resist the temptation to lean backwards and instead lean forwards with my skis pointing straight ahead and just let them slide.
Easier said than done, but after a few goes I felt less likely to flatten any one on my way out.
The first thing Matt taught me was how to stop and feel safe using the snow plough position or pizza slice as they call it now.
We did this a few times until I felt comfortable with it and then I followed him down to the bottom of the nursery run.
We progressed to snow ploughing across the slope and turning, focusing on shifting weight from one leg to the other.
It was a good session and Matt suggested I could try and get on a chair lift and attempt the other beginner slopes.
However, I played safe and spent the afternoon getting to grips with the Magic Carpet and skiing back down the way I knew.
This was not without risk, as I had to dodge the many free flowing toddlers and other hapless beginners, like myself, who cannot change direction once a path had been set.
The second day
I was back on the beginner slopes by 10am as I wanted to practice before my lesson.
However, my favourite nursery slope was icy and although I managed to stay on two skis, I felt my confidence waning.
I went up and down a few times, getting to grips with the Magic Carpet and skiing to the very bottom of the beginner slope, which was steep and tricky, to meet Matt.
I explained how I felt, so we spent the first hour of our lesson building on what I had learned the previous day and concentrating on skiing and turning across the slope.
The sun had started to thaw the snow a little and this made it easier for me, so Matt suggested we try the chair lift and the green slopes in the beginner's area.
I was worried
Skiing down to the chair lifts was daunting as the slopes, although still beginner level were steeper.
However, with Matt's help and encouragement, I did it.
Getting on the lift wasn't too bad, although it was a bit of a shock when the chair came whizzing up behind me and I tumbled in!
Next time, I looked back so I had an idea of when it was approaching.
Travelling up the slope was very peaceful and relaxing once I became used to the height and the drops beneath – the views were incredible!
When the time came to get off, I had to lift up the safety bar, wriggle to the edge of my seat -scary - put my feet on the landing platform, stand up and slide away.
I managed half of it.Skis on the platform ok but couldn't stand up so ended up sliding away on my bum!
Fortunately, Matt was there to help heave me up.It made skiing down the new slope seem so much easier.
We went up and down a few times but still the lift dismount was difficult.
I never actually fell over, just wobbled all over the place.
By the end of my second and final lesson, Matt said he was pleased with my progress and that unknown to me, I had actually skied down parts of some blue runs.
Now it was a case of practicing and building on what I had learned.
So that afternoon, I went up and down on The Magic Carpet to the top of the nursery slope, along with the ski school toddlers.
I implemented what Matt had taught me, whilst the littluns zipped past me in all directions, like ducklings on a pond.
A comforting hot chocolate providing the incentive to get to the bottom.
A real sense of achievement
I ended the week on a high note skiing the whole way down a mighty blue run following in the ski tracks of my cousin Deb, with Colin shouting instructions – 'lift your left leg, lift your right leg -stick your bum out' – all very constructive.
I did find skiing tricky and sometimes alarming, but it was also exhilarating, challenging and gave me a great sense of achievement.
The nursery slopes in Morzine were just right for me and I probably could have stayed pottering around on them for the week.
The ski pass for that area is very good value too, if I hadn't had to go further afield.
In thinking back on my time in Morzine, I just loved being in the mountains, simply stunning.
The lessons with Matt (an absolute must for the beginner), were excellent.
And finally, the camaraderie back in the chalet sharing the day's events around the dinner table was special.
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Going it alone
The following day, I wanted to make the most of my ski pass by going back to the learner area and trying to tackle the chair lifts again.
Unfortunately, the rest of my party were heading off in the opposite direction to Avoriaz.
So, I had to go it alone or not at all.I needed to face my demons, so off I went.
Back on the mountain, I spent an hour on my favourite beginner slope.
Having built up my courage I made for the chair lifts alone, skiing down the tricky parts to reach them.
After conquering my fear, I managed to get on and off unaided, if not ungainly.
On skiing past the Magic Carpet, I saw a fellow novice heading down the piste at full speed, out of control and screaming.
There was her instructor at the bottom of the slope arms outstretched, directly in the line of fire.
She flattened him like roadkill, but the impact did bring her to a halt, and she had a relatively soft landing.
That's dedication for you!
On the Wednesday, I had to find my way to the Ski- Joering (skiing behind a horse) meeting point.
This meant going up a new cable car – The Super Morzine- to Avoriaz a different town and mountain and down two never before experienced green slopes.
I was thinking mission impossible.
However, my knowledgeable and expert skier cousin Colin, said he would come with me and reassured me that I would be able to cope with the skiing.
Ashley was going to come up with us in the gondola and walk to the meeting point – so many things could go wrong.
Before getting on The Super Morzine, skis had to go in a rack on the outside of the gondola.
If you weren't quick, you and your footwear could become separated like lost luggage.
However, with Colin's help I got myself sorted and we arrived at the top.
Ashley headed on his way, and I started skiing into the unknown with Colin leading the way.
He was shouting instructions like bend your knees, stick your bum out, look down the mountain, not behind you!
I did look behind me and that was a mistake – it looked like the M25.
Hundreds of skiers of all levels behind me, racing to get past and to the bottom so they could take the lift back up to more adventurous slopes.
Apparently, this one green slope was the gateway to the rest of the mountain.
The ski code is you don't worry about the skiers behind you-they have to dodge you.
Knowing how difficult it would be for me to dodge anyone, I was expecting to be involved in one pile up at the very least.
Miraculously, I escaped any injury, and took the chair lift back up the mountain.
Colin showed me how to dismount without incurring damage, and we rendezvoused with Ashley at the agreed place – and on time!
My last few days were spent practising on those green pistes, including a very steep and bumpy slope leading to a café in Avoriaz.
The horses enjoy this as much as we do
By Ann Mealor
Skijoring is being towed on skis by one or more horses and can be enjoyed by novice and experienced skiers.
For my first experience of skijoring I went to Avoriaz Skijoring, met Phillipe who has a real love and passion for his horses, and was partnered with Jongo.
He is a well-built, a handsome, black and white, nine-year-old Irish Draught.
I would love to try this again when my skiing has improved and experience the thrill of being pulled at speed, by a horse, through a wintry, woodland landscape.
Phillipe also runs a range of horse-riding excursions into the mountains during the summer months which, as a horse rider sounds particularly enticing.
https://en.avoriaz-skijoering.com/ and https://en.morzine-avoriaz.com/activity/ski-joering/
A spectacular snowshoe adventure
By Ashley Gibbins
One thing Ann and I had to do was to go snowshoe walking, and we did this on a half-day's with DaysAway Adventures.
It was a great way to take in the spectacular French Alps in a half-day that was absolutely exhilarating and a real personal achievement.
The snowshoe walks are run by Vivien and Jason Day, with their delightful border collie Gaia often along for the walk.
Vivien and Jason, both certified International Mountain Leaders, offer small group half and full day snowshoe walks in the mountains of Haute Savoie.
DaysAway Adventures provide snowshoes and walking poles, along with transport from a central location in each village and a welcoming apple spiced tea and a slice of cake mountainside.
https://www.daysawayadventures.com/
Many other on-foot opportunities
Having completed my snowshoe challenge with Jason and the group, I was ready to set out on foot on my own.
I had discussed hiking routes at the Morzine Tourist Information office on my first morning in the resort, told about the pedestrian ski passes and where they could be used and hiking routes that were easy to follow and would allow me to liaise with Ann for lunch in a mountain restaurant.
https://www.morzine-avoriaz.com/brochure/guide-nordique/
Les Aigles du Léman soar on high
By Ashley Gibbins
The Aigles du Léman (Eagles of Lake Geneva) is one of the most popular winter attractions, for skiers and non-skiers alike.
The Aigles du Léman is an organisation dedicated to the conservation of and education about birds of prey.
During the winter season there are two daily shows at restaurant terrace on the Pointe de Nyon.
These are led by Alexandre Ramade and featuring various birds of prey including eagles, buzzards and owls.
https://www.lesaiglesduleman.com/en/summer/the-park/
These Penguins are fast, furious and feisty
By Ashley Gibbins
Another first for me, in Morzine, was the chance to watch a live ice-hockey match.
The Pingouins de Morzine-Avoriaz, the 'penguins' play competitive and friendly matches throughout the summer and winter season.
https://www.hockey-morzine.com/
The fun does not stop at the slopes
Apres ski (after ski) refers to all the social activities and entertainment that follows a day's skiing, snowboarding or hiking.
The phrase, which was first coined in the Alps in the 1950s, has become a generic term worldwide and a key component in any winter sports break.
As such it embraces those who embrace the happily raucous parties and those who are looking for more refined socialising in quite bars and delicious casual and fine dining.
In this respect, Morzine offers the whole spectrum of apres ski.
This being France, the chance to enjoy excellent dining goes without saying and there are any number of choices that will not disappoint.
Those looking to party will inevitably start at Le Tremplin, at the foot of the Pleney lift.
This is the place to cram outside for a throbbing, bopping apres-ski party, every afternoon, with live music and DJs.
Come evening there is a less frenetic but equally enjoyable experience inside.
Le Tremplin also has a fine dining restaurant and, from summer, will open its 4-star new hotel.
https://www.hotel-tremplin.com/
Summertime in the French Alps
Those preferring to visit Morzine during the summer months will find the Alpine meadows blanketed with wildflowers and the mountains ever beckoning.
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