AllWays Traveller Features
The South Hams, Devon
The South Hams sits within the wider South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The name comes from the old English word hamme, meaning an enclosed or sheltered space, which in turn refers to the climate here, which is one of the mildest in Britain.
A relatively small, yet strikingly attractive part of the county it is dotted with villages that date back to Medieval England.
Along the coastline there are a string of port towns including Dartmouth and Salcombe, while inland there is the bohemian, riverside town of Totnes and the bustling market town of Kingsbridge
Given this focus, the South Hams allows one the time to appreciate verdant pastureland, rushing rivers and babbling brooks, moor land and some spectacular coastline.
It also gives one the chance to enjoy the very best of locally produced beers, wines and spirits and to enjoy some excellent opportunities.
A place perfectly formed for a short stay
Memories are made in many sizes, and this is particularly true with travel
Many memories of one's travel are of epic, panoramic scale.
Driving through the prairies of Kansas and Oklahoma; the truly dramatic Badlands and then on to Mount Rushmore in South Dakota; driving South Africa's stunning Garden Route or taking a long and meandering exploration of France's Ardeche region.
But equal pleasure can also be had when recalling trips within a small and clearly defined part of a country.
Or in this case and English county and the South Hams.
The South Hams
The South Hams, a region in rural and coastal Devon, sits within the wider South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
It covers just 342 square miles that includes 52 miles of coastline and with its beaches having won more clean water awards than any other part of Britain.
There is also winding country roads leading through picturesque villages, many with an inviting village inn.
And, of course, given the relative size of the South Hams, the time behind the wheel is kept to a very pleasant minimum.
The South Hams offers great deal to enjoy here, with the time to enjoy it at leisure on a three or four-day break.
Dartmouth
Dartmouth as its name tends to suggest in a bustling little port town on either side of the River Dart,
There are many pleasure boat trips departing from the quay.
Highlight of the year is the Dartmouth Regatta which has been held every August since 1822
The event is free to attend
Totnes
Totnes, England's second oldest borough, has a bohemian charm and a reputation for welcoming alternative lifestyles.
There is a riverside with steamer quay and many historic buildings dating back to Norman, Medieval and Tudor times, along with some 66 houses dating to before 1700.
Salcombe
The harbour town of Salcombe made its name welcoming the schooners that brought fruit from the West Indies.
Details of this trade and other local history can be found in the towns Museum of Maritime and Local History.
Salcombe is also a centre for pleasure craft and ferries, with sailing and motor-boats for hire.
The Rivermaid Ferry sails to Kingsbridge and the East Portlemouth Ferry crosses the estuary to the sheltered beaches of Smalls Cove, Mill Bay and Sunny Cove.
Hope Cove, a six-miles walk along the cliffs, is a delightful village in a green valley, which slopes down to two pleasant sheltered beaches.
Kingsbridge
Kingsbridge is a bustling country town with cobbled streets, passages and alleys and the Shambles, an old market hall raised on granite pillars dating from Elizabethan times.
One also finds fine 18th and 19th century houses.
The town is at the head of the Kingsbridge Estuary, a wide expanse of water, featuring many shallow creeks.
www.devonguide.com/kingsbridge
Fine local producers
In addition to the towns, coastline and countryside, the South Hams also offers the chance to enjoy some many local food and drink producers, some of which are found below.
Somewhere special to stay in the South Hams
The Turtley Corn Mill
The Turtley Corn Mill was more than a welcome sight for the weary traveller (ie me) after a long drive from London to Devon.
As we approached the rustic yet stylish country pub with its water wheel gently turning,
I knew this was going to be a relaxing and peaceful place to stay.
The Turtley Corn Mill was once a working mill owned by Josia Turtley.
Now as an Inn, it makes the most of its idyllic surroundings, being set in six acres on the bank of the river Glazebrook.
Once you arrive there is plenty of bird and wildlife for guests to enjoy.
Colourful peacocks proudly strut around the gardens showing off their plumage and giving the occasional 'look at me' squark.
Feathery footed hens (Silkies I'm told) go about their business clucking, scratching and digging out dusty nests for themselves in the shade of leafy shrubbery.
It was a pleasure just to sit and watch them go about their everyday life whilst enjoying a chilled glass of wine in the sun.
A traditional country hostelry
The pub itself is furnished in traditional country hostelry style with patterned rugs scattered over stone and oak floors, mismatching wooden tables and chairs and deep leather sofas.
There are cosy nooks lined with book filled shelves and plenty of prints, old clocks that chime and interesting objets d'art to look at between drinks.
The pub itself has six bedrooms with two luxury wooden lodges overlooking the lake
Woodpecker Lodge
We stayed in the sumptuously furnished Woodpecker Lodge.It was so private and secluded it reminded me of one of our visits to South Africa except here we were overlooking water, trees, foliage and birdlife instead of the open plains and wild beasts.
There were two comfortable chairs ideally positioned to make the most of the waterside scenery and a pair of binoculars on hand to get a closer look at the birds and any otters that might be passing.
Everything in the lodge was of the highest quality – a dinky Smeg fridge filled with complimentary Heron Valley soft drinks, fresh milk and some local miniature gins, a cute Smeg kettle, a choice of fruit and black teas, an espresso machine and a milk frother for that perfect cappuccino or latte.
In the centre of the room and facing the lake, was a large comfortable bed, with a fur throw and striped cushions.In one corner was a small dining area with a chunky oak table – ideal for a spot of breakfast.
The bathroom was very spacious and chic with a huge walk-in power shower, twin sinks and an antique freestanding, roll-top bath.
There were plenty of super-smelling toiletries too.
Before going to dinner, we completely opened up the bi-fold doors, sat out on our private balcony, sipped a glass of wine, relaxed and admired the scenery.
This was a place where you could truly unwind, forget about your worries for a while and recharge the proverbial batteries.
Dining at The Turtley Corn Mill
The Turtley Corn Mill focuses on good food cooked well.The menu is full of seasonal and locally produced dishes including fresh fish which is caught daily.
Not only is there a carefully chosen wine list, but there is a wide selection of local ales on the pumps as well as a number of independently produced gins.
For starters, Ashley chose the classic prawn cocktail, and I had the kiln roasted smoked salmon on baby gem with a rocket and beetroot salad and horseradish cream.
Both starters were generous in size and well presented. My salmon was soft and flakey and the prawns plump and juicy.
For mains, Ashley opted for the pan roasted hake and pollock fillets with clams, mussels and samphire in a lobster bisque. Listed on the menu were the boats his fish were caught from – Kelly of Ladram and Tamesis.
I went for the warm salad of scallops (landed by Barbican Rose), sauteed potatoes and bacon lardons.
Both dishes were delicious – the fish was full of flavour, the samphire crunchy and the bisque hot and tangy. The scallops were soft and succulent and went so well with the lardons.
For dessert we both chose ice cream which we ate sitting on the leather sofas in the comfort of the lounge area.
Breakfast
I always enjoy a hearty breakfast when I'm staying away from home. It's a real treat and sets you up for the day, so no need to stop exploring for lunch.
So, I made sure I had the full English with all the trimmings and it didn't disappoint.I had a warm, buttery croissant to follow.
Ashley particularly enjoyed the crushed avocado and poached eggs and the local Midfield granola with Greek yoghurt and fruit compote.
Tucked away in one of the Lodges for the weekend, there is really no need to leave the Mill if you don't want to as everything you need is close at hand. It's an ideal retreat and a stunning place to chill out.
The Lodges also have their own dedicated parking spaces with electric charging points.
Somewhere special to eat in the South Hams
Geetie is blazing the trail for the finest organic dining
By Ann Mealor
The Bull Inn, Totnes, is an organic, ethical pub with rooms.
It is owned and run by Geetie Singh-Watson who is tremendously proud at having opened the Duke of Cambridge, in Islington, London, the first certified organic pub in the world in 1998 and grew the chain to embrace three other, award-winning organic pubs.
Fast forward to 2018 and Geetie was in in Totnes, having fallen for a local farmer, and in possession of The Bull Inn an old coaching inn, which she has turned into a hugely popular organic restaurant with rooms.
In addition to stockpiling awards for her food, Geeta has also been awarded an MBE for Services to the Organic Pub Trade
Wining and dining at The Bull Inn
It was a Monday evening, and The Bull Inn was packed out and buzzing with the contented chit-chat of happy diners. A very good sign!
Doing business better
The Bull Inn has a 'planet, people, profit' ethos and is committed to a Philosophy of Doing Business Better in every sense of the word.
So, it goes without saying, the bar serves an excellent selection of organic beer, in bottle or on draft.
ON the wine menu, you will find a selection of finest of organic wines.
For the restaurant, it's organic, seasonal food, fresh local veg, mindful meat (the whole animal is used – no waste) and a choice of responsibly sourced fish.
Even the building has been given an ecological makeover, with lime-plaster walls, antique, vintage and second-hand furniture, lighting by local artisan makers, organic bathroom products and walls and doors decorated in eco paint.
Working with local business and producers
In addition to this benefiting the environment and local businesses, it also means diners and guests can take comfort in the knowledge they are helping the planet simply by enjoying themselves.
The dining room
The dining room at The Bull Inn has a warm and relaxed atmosphere enhanced by an eclectic mix of mis-matched tables, chairs, knives and forks.
A variety of patterned rugs are scattered across the bare, stone floor giving the place a rustic, homely feel.
The menu
As the menu is seasonal and changes daily, everything on offer is written on a very large blackboard that is carried from table to table by one of the waiting team.
There were so much on offer it was difficult to make a choice.
However, for starters, Ashley decided on the crab, courgette, brown crab mayo, pangrittata (crispy breadcrumbs) and shredded kohlrabi (similar to cabbage). The dish was a riot of flavours and crunchy deliciousness.
I chose the poached pear, stilton, walnuts and leaves.
The pears were melt-in-the-mouth soft, the stilton tangy and creamy, the leaves crisp and the walnuts toasty – a very pleasing flavour filled foursome.
For mains, we both ended up having the pan-fried skate, as The John Dory I had my eye on had sold out.
If left to my own devices, I would not have ordered skate as it's not a fish I am over-keen on.
However, I am now a total convert, it was absolutely delicious.
The white, juicy flesh just fell from the bone whilst the harissa aioli was an inspiring addition as it really gave the dish a burst of spiciness.
The battered curry scraps were surprisingly moorish and a tasty surprise.
My expectations were well and truly exceeded!
And as for skate, it tasting so good here has got me hooked.
Dessert
For dessert, I had the Blackcurrant Fool with shortbread crumb – silky smooth and refreshing.
Ashley chose the rose wine jelly, summer berries and cream – an ideal summer combination, light yet luscious.
Having eaten at The Bull Inn, it now comes as no surprise that it was packed out on what is traditionally one of the quietest dining days of the week!
A pub with rooms
For those looking to spend a night or two, there are nine rooms and a four bed apartment, all individually designed and decorated in a way that blends with The Bull Inn's overall eclectic approach.
Rob brings all his own creations to Circa
The Circa restaurant is found on the Sandridge Barton Estate, the home of Sharpham Wine.
Such is the lovely location l did wonder if Circa would live up to its surroundings.
I needn't have worried - Circa more than met the challenge.
Head chef and co-founder, Rob Weeks is self-taught and makes as much in-house as possible including the charcuteries, vinegar and the must-have daily fresh heritage sourdough bread.
He even makes melt-in-the-mouth coffee kombucha truffles out of the left-over coffee grinds.
The menu changes with the season and produce is bought locally including organic veg, estate-reared South Devon beef and seafood from the Brixham fish market.
As the weather was absolutely glorious, we sat outside in the picturesque, cobbled courtyard with views across the farm and fields.Every one of the square rustic tables was taken.
Although Circa has only been open for a few months, and for lunch only, word has already spread that it is the place to go.
We ordered two glasses of Sharpham's wine, the sparkling Blanc de Blancs and Estate Selection, and sipped our chilled drinks in the sun whilst perusing the menu and listening to the musical mooing of the cows.
We decided to start with some homemade sourdough and butter.
It came to the table warm and soft with a crispy crust.
Needless-to-say, it was quickly polished off, with not a crumb left.
For the main course I chose the Brixham day-boat fish, which was hake with new potatoes, Cornish seaweed butter and samphire from the Dart estuary.
I have never tasted hake so delicious, it had so much flavour.
Ashley went for the smoked mackerel, leaves, lapsang quail eggs, new potatoes, sesame and wasabi vinaigrette.
This was a light and refreshing dish, perfect for a summer's day.
We managed to finish our meal with a couple of bowls of creamy homemade ice-cream and gooseberry sorbet.
The staff are well trained, friendly, very knowledgeable about the menu, and full of praise for Rob.
They are passionate about the restaurant and made us feel very welcome, helping to create the relaxed and convivial atmosphere we enjoyed at Circa.
Leave plenty of time and enjoy a long, lazy lunch sampling the menu and making the most of the wines.
www.sandridgebarton.com/restaurant
The River Shack
Touring the USA, one always looks out for those absolutely no-frills, local eating houses that invariably offer 'real home' cooking at its best along with great beer.
These diners are invariably found in a ramshackle collection of shacks, cabins and lean-to's and just ooze character.
The Rivershack, in Stoke Gabriel, is just ten minutes from Totnes.
But it could just as easily be Florida, Alabama, Oklahoma or Cape Cod.
The River Shack offers a menu of locally sourced dishes along with fine beers, wines and cocktails.
Being located in Mill Pond, which runs off the River Dart, means small boats can moor up at the restaurants pontoon while many other guests arrive by paddle board, kayak, canoe from as far as Dartmouth.
The River Shack offers all the rustic charm and genuine character of its American cousins from a waterside spot.
Local producers in the South Hams
Potato vodka from Devon, who'd believe it
While Devon and vodka might not seem to enjoy an obvious synergy, a first sip of Devon Cove Vodka dispels any such thoughts.
Leanne Carr grew up around potatoes, with parents Caroline and David and brother Adam growing King Edwards' on the family farm overlooking Hope Cove in South Devon.
But in every crop, there will be those potatoes that do not conform to retail requirements.
This was why, in 2018 that Leanne and husband Ben had the idea of taking those unwanted spuds and, using Devon spring water, produce a vodka.
Leanne and Ben set about learning all there was to know about small batch traditional copper pot distillation and the smooth vodka they now produce looks to capture the essence of the county.
The name Devon Cove Vodka was the obvious choice for their product which, in four short years has garnered genuine acclaim in the vodka world.
And how best to drink Cove Vodka?
Well, that's an entirely personal choice.
Leanne will tell you her vodka is wonderful over ice, chilled soda water and a squeeze of lime.
However, the thing about vodka is its clear, clean taste makes it so versatile.
It's used in thousands of cocktail recipes with almost as many flavours and styles there is a vodka cocktail for everyone.
For some of the Cove distillery's favourites : www.devoncove.co.uk/how-to-enjoy-devon-cove-vodka
And finally, for those who want to taste Devon Cove Vodka in the county where it is produced, one can visit theRiver Shack in Stoke Gabriel; Harbour Hotel at Salcombe; Crab Shed at Salcombe and the Oyster Shack at Bigbury
Sandridge Barton, the home of Sharpham Wine
If you are not ready for a lunch at Circa, you might consider a relaxing wine tasting in Sandridge Barton's newly created visitor experience.
This has the winery, wine tastings and wine shop in an almost perfect rural setting.
There is something genuinely restorative in spending an hour or so sipping fine English wines while nibbling on the Sharpham cheeses, olives and dips.
Sharpham Wine, which has been nurturing and crafting English wines from its Dart Valley vineyards for the past 40-years, is taking this legacy and tradition forward at Sandridge Barton.
The Sandridge Barton vineyard was first planted in 2008, and is now producing an estimated 80 tonnes of grapes from 24 acres.
In 2021, a new eight-acre vineyard was planted on the estate - on one of only a few raised limestone beds in the UK - and the first crop from this site is expected in 2024.
The 32-acre vineyard, found in a south-facing bowl overlooking the River Dart, is planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Madeleine Angevine and Bacchus.
These are sold under the Sharpham brand.
The winery offers a range of tasting experiences.
There are the self-guided tastings for those happy to sit and sip and some in-depth guided tastings and tours for those wishing to learn more about the processes we use in the vineyard and winery.
Staying at Sandridge Barton
For those who might like to stay over in the vineyard, there is a chance to consider Sandridge Barton House, a classically furnished 6-bedroom Georgian house, that was once home to Naval Captain John Davis.
Other accommodation options include a restored 1760's boathouse, on the banks of the River Dart, and the converted Lower Well Farmhouse.
John keeps the local brewing tradition alive
I remember an iconic commercial that had Victor Kiam claiming he like the Remington Shaver so much, he bought the company.
Often wondered if it was just 'advertising puff'
What is not in doubt is that John Tiner, who was enjoying a successful career in insurance and finance, was enjoying a pint of his favoured Shingle Bay when the landlord warned him it would probably be his last.
The brewery that produced Shingle Bay was in difficulties and was likely to go under.
John, who was in the process of moving his family from the Surrey commuter belt to the South Hams, had a eureka moment.
He went along to the brewery for a reccy and, cut a long story very short, ended up buying it.
The Salcombe Brewery Co was officially launched in 2015, and those who are aficionados of good beer will want to visit the brewery for one of its very popular brewery tours and ample sampling.
I did so and the whole range is crisp and delicious.
But wherever you are in the South Hams, you have a choice of some wonderful pubs and bars offering the brewery's fine ales, beers and lagers along with views 'to die for'.
Check out :
The Lobster Pod Bistro
The Lobster Pod in Hope Cove overlooks the harbour and beach.
www.lobster-pod.co.uk/public/index
Harbour Beach Club, Salcombe
This luxury hotel and resort on South Sands in Salcombe has been voted as one of the UK's top boutique beach destinations. Enjoy a beer at the Beach Club Bar.
www.harbourhotels.co.uk/harbour-beach-club
Gara Rock Hotel, Portlemouth
Gara Rock Hotel is located on one of the most beautiful, unspoilt stretch of coastline.
The Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island
Claiming to be one of the oldest taverns in England, The Pilchard Inn is located on the edge of the famous Burgh Island, with panoramic views over Bigbury Bay.
www.burghisland.com/the-pilchard-inn
The Beach House, South Milton
The Beach House overlooks South Milton sands and is a popular spot for 'sundowner'.
Rockfish
Finally, Salcombe Brewery has also teamed up with up with Devon chef Mitch Tonks to brew the beer for his popular Rockfish chain of restaurants.
The Seahorse Trust
With the seahorse an integral part of the Salcombe Brewery Co's branding, it is no surprise it supports The Seahorse Trust.
Seahorses are a unique fish species that occupy coastal areas in most parts of the world but are increasingly vulnerable to human and natural interference.
Happy graduates galore at the Salcombe Gin School
On this trip to the South Hams, we had been able to enjoy excellent local beer at the Salcombe Brewery; rum at Hattiers (below): Leanne Carr's exceptional potato vodka and fine English wines at Sandridge Barton.
At Owens Coffee, we also enjoyed one the of the finest cups of coffee in a very long while (below).
What was left to taste a locally produced gin if this was possible.
It most certainly was.
Salcombe Distilling Co is creating exceptional gin at its waterside distillery on Island Street, just a few short steps from Salcombe's oh so attractive harbour.
For what it's worth this is one of the world's only distilleries with direct boat access.
Salcombe Fruiters were schooner sailing vessels built in Salcombe and neighbouring Kingsbridge in the 19th century.
These hand-built ships were the fastest of their day, with copper sheathed hulls and an ability to sail close to the wind, they were small and fast to carry the highly perishable cargo of fresh fruits and spices from around the world to England's ports.
These fruits and spices influence the botanicals used in Salcombe Gin to this day.
But back to the gin.
There are many craft gin producers in the UK, and a number of these offer gin tastings and the chance to produce one's own gin.
Salcombe Gin School
But none we have yet encountered has come up to the professional levels that they do at the Salcombe Gin School.
We students start in the distillery's bar for one or two G&T's, before being sat in front of the company's grand copper gin still for an entertaining briefing on Salcombe Gin's approach to distilling.
The rest of the session is then over to us.
In the gin each is then sat in front of an individual mini copper still and proceed to do everything needed to create and our own unique 70cl bottle of gin, with a couple of miniatures to boot.
Ann's Ridgeway Traveller
We even name our gin, which is branded and boxed with Ann's unique blend of botanicals.
Happily, the G&T's kept coming.
When I heard the gin school would be some 150-minutes in length I thought maybe a bit long, certainly compared to previous distillery visits.
Not a bit of it.
Our gin's
With a little guidance from the Salcombe guys, my Ridgeway International and Ann's Ridgeway Traveller were excellent.
Professionally branded and packaged, they take pride of place in our dining room, and enjoyed on special occasions
Smelling this coffee is certainly worth waking up for
People who really appreciate the very best coffee will travel quite a way to get their favourite blend.
People who really appreciate the very best coffee will travel quite a way to get their favourite blend.
That's why Owens Coffee is known for many miles around.
The company, which has been roasting 100% certified Organic and Fairtrade coffee since 2010, is the first dedicated organic coffee roaster in the UK's South-West.
Lorraine Bridden and her current team are just passionate about coffee and roast, so everyone can enjoy the coffee at peak flavour using the finest, most delicious responsibly sourced beans.
The enthusiasm with which each and every visitor is greeted, and the time and care they take to ensure they get just the blend they like, is genuinely welcomed.
Being Fair Trade certified guarantees a fair price is paid for the beans, and also provides a Fairtrade Premium, which the farmers invest as they see best fits their needs.
Their beans are imported from coffee-producing countries around the world, including communities in Peru, Sumatra, Nicaragua, Rwanda, Ethiopia, Honduras, Papua New Guinea and Guatemala.
Owens coffees are also certified by the Soil Association which means it must have full traceability from farmer to importer and throughout the roasting process to ensure the coffee is 100% organic.
While all of this may not be seen as relevant for someone lifting a jar of instant coffee off the supermarket shelf, it is an essential requirement for those true coffee aficionados, who want to know everything about the coffee they are making.
In addition to just selling coffee, the company also has a venue for tours, demonstrations, barista training, coffee experiences and cupping sessions.
There is also a Home Barista Masterclass, helping coffee enthusiasts make consistently better coffee.
And finally, for the rest of us it is just a pleasure to enjoy a delicious cup of Owens Coffee on their outside seating area. A great way to start a day on the South Hams.
Rums of which Philip's daughter can be very proud
There must be something about the South Hams that encourages the most creative entrepreneurship.
For that's certainly the case with Philip Everett-Lyons, who returned to the area after a successful 10-year career, in film and television.
Driven by a passion for life at sea and an upsurge in demand for premium spirits, Philip looked to produce really good rum.
A surge in demand for premium spirits and the West Country's sea faring legacy, rum was the only choice. But not just any old rum. Good rum. Really good rum.
The result was indeed so good, he named his new brand Hattiers Rum after his daughter.
Rum is a liquor made by fermenting and distilling sugarcane molasses or sugarcane juice to produce a clear liquid usually aged in oak barrels.
The rum makers art is to take a range of the raw rum barrels and produce a unique blend, which Philip has taken it to a fine art.
Each of his signature blends allow the fine tropically aged rums within to 'shine', without the need to add sugar, spices or colourants to make the resulting rum look darker.
He then only uses only the softest Dartmoor water, which has been filtered by layer upon layer of ancient granite rock.
Low in minerals, this naturally filtered water balances the alcoholic strength of the base rum to a more accessible level.
In a few short years, Hattiers Rum is standing alongside the finest rums in pubs, bars and restaurants throughout the UK including, of course in the South Hams.
For those who want to know much more about Philip's approach, he runs regular guided tours of his distillery in Mothecombe on the Flete Estate.
Philip believes rum drinkers should know what they are drinking and the back of each bottle of Hattiers Rum shows all component rums, country or countries of origin, age and distillation method.
Food Drink Devon
In addition to the food and drink producers highlighted in this AllWays Traveller, there many other producers, retailers, hospitality venues and related businesses, dedicated to serving up the best produce.
They collectively champion all the fine local fare found in the county and include :
Luscombe Drinks
Luscombe Drinks is known in the UK and internationally for producing some of the best tasting organic drinks sourced from organic whole fruits from growers around the world.
These are blended with their own source of Dartmoor spring water.
Luscombe Drinks has also been granted a Royal Warrant.
Sharpham Cheese
Sharpham Dairy produces a small range of award-winning hand make English cheeses in a valley overlooking the River Dart.
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