Edinburgh, Scotland's compact, hilly capital, is fondly known as "Auld Reekie", which means "Old Smokey" in Scots.

It has a medieval Old Town and elegant Georgian New Town with gardens and neoclassical buildings.

Looming over the city is Edinburgh Castle, home to Scotland's crown jewels and the Stone of Destiny, used in the coronation of Scottish rulers.

Arthur's Seat is an imposing peak in Holyrood Park with sweeping views and Calton Hill is topped with monuments and memorials.

Getting to the city

An office at 125mph on the East Coast main line between Edinburgh and London.

We strolled to our leather armchairs for the journey and deposited our luggage then I hooked up my laptop ready for use. I picked up a paper to pass the time before coffee arrived.

There had been no queue to check in luggage, problems over the weight of the luggage.

There was no hassle over security screening and the stress that entails and no scrambling for a seat in a departure lounge full of passengers waiting for delayed planes, no queue to board, no boarding passes required and no need to show your passport.

Oh, and the train left on time.

This was travel minus stress.

However, the wi-fi did not co-operate and there was no cooked breakfast because of a reported staff shortage.

We accepted a bacon roll and later staff did offer selections from the all-day menu later in the journey.

On the way back we sat down and were scanning the menu only for the chef to ask for it back.

Cooker problems we were told. Later, he offered a vegan wrap – which were not popular with passengers - or a Scottish beef and horseradish sandwich on bland, tasteless white bread, a poor alternative to a cooked meal.

Yes, the hand cooked crisps and treacle muffin, plus tea and coffee, were dispensed but come on LNER.

First class means what is says. The toilet also didn't have a working soap dispenser. Another minus point.

However, the train was on time and it only takes over four hours London to Edinburgh and the wi-fi worked coming home. Phew.

Despite the hiccups, I still find this the best way to travel between two of Britain's Capital cities and the journey time by plane – providing it is on time – is about an hour longer.

I'll plump for the rail option any time but LNER, please get your act together.

Places to dine

Chenzo's Restaurant

We wanted somewhere with atmosphere and good Italian food to meet friends away from the chain restaurants in Livingston.

Chenzo's enjoyed good reviews including "a gem", "lovely, authentic Italian restaurant", "perfection pasta dishes" and "great food, good service and good prices" so we booked a table.

First impressions count. It's a surprisingly big restaurant in the middle of Uphall, but the lighting and the floral wallpaper, plus the tables minus cloths, don't provide a warm welcome.

The menu – there are also specials - has choices to suit most tastes and Chenzo's say they update as often as possible.

We opted minestrone soup, a staple, along with bruschetta, and stuffed mushrooms.

The minestrone was a tad cool and lacked taste, despite being packed with vegetables. The mushrooms were well received and the bruschetta was tasty.

We opted to stay clear of pizza and pasta and plumped for stroganoff and chicken dishes.

The stroganoff had a pleasing taste, but was nothing special, but my chicken dish minus cream – I'm lactose intolerant – was a huge disappointment.

I expected a rich sauce packed with flavour from the likes of olives, garlic and vegetables, but this was thin and bland.

The chicken was advertised as being wrapped in ham and cheese but, once again, it lacked quality in taste and presentation.

The chips disappointed and most of the accompanying vegetables lacked bite, particularly the soggy courgettes.

Yes, we cleared our plates, which were cold on arrival, but that was because we were hungry, not because of the quality.

Service was with a smile, but that can't make up for the disappointment served up from the kitchen.

Possibly we were there on a bad night, but the lack of patrons could be an indication of how locals rate this establishment.

And, of course, few diners means lack of atmosphere. Uninspiring frontage, uninspiring interior and uninspiring food. Average at best.

Toby Carvery Liberton

The Balm Well in Liberton was apparently visited by James VI and people from across the Continent were, we understand, drawn to the healing well which lies on the outskirts of Scotland's Capital city.

It is situated in the leafy grounds of the popular Toby Carvery restaurant just off Howden Hall Road and the oily substance which floated on top of the water was believed to have curative powers for skin diseases.

I did not get as far as the well as I craved a thirst-quenching liquid refreshment on a warm, sunny day in August.

The pump clips I noted on entry were all of chemical beer so I plumped for a Guinness, the dark Irish dry stout is consistent and is one of the most successful beer brands worldwide.

It went down well particularly as we found one of the many seats in the spacious beer garden.

The carvery is near a busy road but we did not hear traffic noise, a major plus, and the food on the carvery looked good, but we did not have the time.

However, we are tempted to make a speedy return.

Useful links

www.edinburgh.org