AllWays Traveller Features
East Lothian : on Edinburgh’s doorstep
East Lothian may be on Edinburgh's doorstep, but local tourism chiefs claim it is a destination in its own right.
There is, undoubtedly, a lot to do.
For starters, there are 30 castles and 22 golf courses, plus some great seafood.
Landmarks, nature and parks and historic sites are also on tap but let's start with the wonderful beaches. For that you need the weather and East Lothian claims to be the sunniest area of Scotland.
The stunning sands include Seacliff Beach plus Yellowcraig, Belhaven and Tantallon, not forgetting Gullane, but that brings us back to golf.
The area is also called Scotland's Golf Coast and there are a number of testing courses including several in Gullane, one of which hosts the Scottish Open. It attracts golfers with household names from around the world.
Muirfield, which is tucked away behind the village towards the sea, is an Open venue and nearby there is the highly-rated Renaissance and Archerfield courses plus tough links golf at North Berwick, The Glen and also at Dunbar.
Tekking tourism includes alpacas just outside Dunbar but walking fans will love the 40 miles of coastline from Musselburgh along the John Muir Country Walk. The birthplace of John Muir, the man known as the father of national parks in America, is in the area.
Other outdoor activities include s surf school, sailing and fishing, both sea, at several local harbours, and for trout at popular Markle Fishery – fly and bait - near Haddington.
Landmarks include Winton and cliff-top Tantallon Castle plus houses at Newhailes and Lennoxlove. Dirlton Castle has a great garden.
Torness Power Station dominates the landscape near Dunbar.
The most dramatic part of the region, however, is the 40-plus miles of coastline running from Musselburgh to Dunbar.
Included are harbour towns including Musselburgh and Cockenzie and market towns including Haddington and inviting inland villages like East Linton.
Fans of time-travelling TV series Outlander can visit Lallybroch's Mill as in Season 1 Jamie went for a swim, Mr Darcy style.
And aviation buffs can visit The Concorde Experience which is only miles from Britain's oldest nature reserve is housed in the sand dunes, mudflats and salt marshes at Aberlady Bay.
It was designated a local nature reserve in 1952 and locals say it is home to more than 500 plants, wading birds and thousands of pink-footed geese in the summer.
Paths through the reserve lead down to the beach and at low tide you the remains of two midget submarines are visible.
What to see
Museum of Flight, East Fortune
Over 40 military and civil aeroplanes with the biggest attraction of Concorde but you can also see inside a Boeing 707. Xxhibitions on throughout the year, including an airshow in the summer.
Castles
Tantallon
Set on cliffs overlooking the Bass Rock and this was a stronghold of the Douglas family. Spectacular views from the tower to watch seabirds including gannets.
Dirleton Castle
Described as a romantic castle built in the 12th-centyry with a Victorian garden. The herbaceous border is in the Guinness Book of Records as the world's longest.
Houses
Newhailes
A Palladin-style home in 80 acres of parkland near Musselburgh built in 1686.
Lennoxlove
Home of the Duke of Hamilton dating from the 14th-century and it houses a collection of paintings and furniture as well as Mary Queen of Scots memorabilia.
Gosford
A 19th-century mansion with a marble hall, art collection and lush gardens.
Golf
- The Renaissance Club pened in 2008 and designed by Tom Doak. Highly rated.
- Archerfield: this claims to be "golf as it is meant to be". Two 18-hole courses.
- Gullane Golf Club: one of Scotland's most prestige member clubs with superb turf and a climate which allows golf all year.
Scottish Seabird Centre:
The Firth of Forth is home to the biggest Northern gannet colony in the world.
With 14 cameras on Bass Rock, the Isle of May, Craigleith Cliffs, Dunbar Harbour and Fidra Island, as well as burrow cams, you can watch the biggest puffin colony on the East Coast of Britain as well as guillemots, razorbills, shags, fulmars and kittiwakes. Boat trips.
Glenkinchie Distillery
Scotland's most southerly whisky distillery and one of only three working distilleries in the Lowlands.
It is at Pencaitland and the product is the home of the Edinburgh malt. It has a light soft taste comes from water from the nearby Lammermuir Hills.
Fishing
Sea: Andara II
With skipper Trevor Springford from Dunbar for up to six passengers for cod, pollock, wrasse, ling, coley and mackerel.
Markle
The fishery offers fly-fishing for quality trout on three lochs.
The fly fishing only lochs are Markle (5.5 acres) and The Monastery (2 acres). The Kinloch (2.5 acres) is a bait and fly water.
The complex is a commended Scottish Tourist Board two-star visitor attraction and is a member of the Association of Scottish Stillwater Fisheries (ASSF) that means full insurance cover is in place.
Beginners are welcome as are children (under 16 should be supervised). The fishery is open all year round, seven days a week and daily from 8am until dusk. Night sessions are available by arrangement during the summer.
River Esk
Permits available from Musselburgh and District Angling Association for the Musselburgh stretch which is home to grayling and brown trout and sea trout.
Tyne
Permits from the East Lothian Angling Association allow anglers to fish for brown trout and, if they are lucky, sea trout and salmon.
Charterboats-uk.co.uk
Flyfishingscotland.com
Surfing
Learn to surf, bodyboard, stand-up paddle and coaster with a range of lessons.
Eating out
I visited The Bonnie Badger for a special lunch and the compliments from the group were impressive.
My diet-dictated dish was of cod, which flaked in my fork, salted kale on pumpkin jus. Delicious.
The dessert was panna cotta with delicate slivers of apple infused with lemon and an apple sorbet. Sublime.
Where to stay
The Archerfield Estate sits between the villages of Gullane and Dirleton and offers a luxury hotel, spa and links golf club.
Archerfield Walled Garden and cafe, shop, children's play area, is in the grounds and there is a street food market and a collection of fairy houses hidden in Archerfield Wood.
MacDonald Marine Hotel & Spa in North Berwick overlooks the beachand is known for its 19th century Victorian architecture. It has 83 bedrooms and conference facilities.
The Bonnie Badger, the stylish, recently converted (12 individual rooms and a suite) hotel, with bar and restaurant rooms and a garden created by celebrity chef Tom Kitchin and his wife Michaela, in Gullane.
Wild camping at Blinkbonny in the Lammermuir Hills.
There are no showers, no drinking water, no electricity; you need to bring everything yourself.
Boat trips
The Scottish Seabird Centre offers trips from Easter to Autumn
Sailing
East Lothian Yacht Club offer fun sailing in the Forth Estuaryfrom North Berwick harbour.
How to get there
Car
Take the A1 to Longniddry and then the signposted coastal route via Aberlady, Gullane and Dirleton to North Berwick. Return by continuing to past Tantallon Castle, Tyninghame and returning via the A1.
Train
Direct to Longniddry or to North Berwick from Edinburgh Waverley or Haymarket, the Capital's two main stations.
Useful links
Location (Map)
About the author
Contact info
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London, United Kingdom
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