AllWays Traveller Features
Rye, Hastings and Eastbourne, UK
The area around the coastal area of Rye, Hastings and Eastbourne in the English county of Sussex is marketed as 1066 Country after the Battle of Hastings that was fought here.
Rye
Rye's history can be traced back to Roman times but it is not immediately obvious that the town was once a port and busy medieval trading post.
Canons pointing out to sea from Gun Gardens at Rye Castle Museum provide a reminder that the sleepy town was once the Western seat of defence against Napoleon.
The town is actually two miles from the sea at the merging of three rivers, the Rother, Tillingham and Bede and we stepped back in time as we strolled along the quaint, cobbled streets with medieval, half-timbered houses, into the Norman St Mary's Church.
It overlooks the town and we continued to walk past the 14th-centry Ypres Tower which formed part of Rye's defences and is now a museum.
You will find a traditional butcher, bakery and small independent businesses, including boutiques, offering a range from essential to quirky.
If you are into second-hand books then enjoy.
Rye is also home to a lively creative community including artists, sculptors and photographers and their work is showcased in local galleries.
There is also a range of award-winning accommodation and even camping.
Rye is well worth a visit but the local council should smarten their act up.
The road from Winchelsea into Rye – which is a popular entry point – is scruffy with the frame of a building, a hand car wash and Heras fencing over a gap site before you cross the river.
At the bridge, there is a picnic space which cries out for flower baskets and several of the properties in prime locations require TLC.
Saying that, do take in Rye. It is different and, if you enjoy the seaside, then extensive Camber Sands are an easy drive away.
One thing to note
There is an extensive car park (there is little on-street parking) but drive into the town end as it is easier to access the beach.
Hastings is a short drive away or, better still, to avoid parking problems, take the train and don't miss George Street which is packed with quirky shops, including bric-a-brac and antiques, inviting pubs, traditional tea rooms and a variety of restaurants.
It is also a lively fishing town with boats setting out to sea at dawn and selling their catches near the beach from net huts.
You'll find old pubs, live music and nearby is Bexhill, the birthplace of British motor racing and also the first resort to allow men and women to swim together on the same beach. No chain stores here but quality shops, many retro style.
And bustling Eastbourne, favoured by those in later years, boasts Britain's busiest bandstand, and is on the same railway line. The seafront is free of tacky shops, thankfully, and the pier is worth a visit.
Getting to Rye
Rye can be reached in under three hours from North London and provided a perfect base from which to explore.
Drive south on the A259 between Hastings to the west and Folkestone to the east and on the A268 from the north.
Trains leave from London Charing Cross, London bridge, St Pancras (high speed link) and Waterloo East (change at Ashford International for Rye) and the journey is around 1hr 5mins.
Trains also leave from London Victoria and Gatwick Airport. Change at Hastings for Rye. Once in Rye there are good rail and bus links with local towns.
www.nationalrail.co.uk.
Willow Tree House, Rye
First impressions count and this early Georgian boathouse, which has been sympathetically refurbished, oozed class as we drove in.
The exterior has been preserved virtually intact, but the period interior has been redesigned sympathetically to incorporate modern comforts alongside its undoubted character.
The six period bedrooms have en-suite (ours had a wonderfully powerful overhead shower plus toiletries from The White Company, their shampoo and conditioner is excellent, by the way).
The beds were comfortable. There is free wi-fi with free parking with the centre of Rye being only a ten minute stroll away.
The breakfast selection is excellent, with several fruit and cereal bowls boasting local produce. In season, try the succulent raspberries.
Yoghurt is also available and so is soya milk.
My poached eggs and smoked salmon proved an ideal way to start the day and the full English includes tasty sausages (delicious) and smoked bacon sourced from a local butcher.
A tad more expensive than supermarket produce but worth the extra cost and effort.
Eggs are cooked to your liking and Pam's mushroom omelette was all you could wish for.
Staff are a delight and one feels at home here. Indeed, guests can use the extensive garden to relax and take in the sun.
There is an extensive selection of brochures for local attractions and Bob White, the owner, is full of useful hints and tips about local restaurants and travel.
We decided to take the train to Eastbourne and he provided the train times and costs from the internet. Little touches count.
This is undoubtedly five-star and Bob deserves to be successful.
The Mermaid Inn, Mermaid Street, Rye
The Queen, it says, once ate at The Mermaid Inn situated on a much-photographed street in the heart of the atmospheric town of Rye, one of the world-famous Cinque Ports, once famed for smuggling.
Apparently, smugglers boasted about their next assignment in the bar which undoubtedly has a unique atmosphere and serves a range of well-presented, local ales.
The Mermaid is claimed to be one of England's oldest inns and it was rebuilt in 1420 and it has 31 bedrooms, many with four-poster beds.
There are secret passages and a resident ghost.
Aside from that, the wood-panelled, two AA rosette restaurant, offers a daily table d'hote and house speciality menus. They were tempting but we were wearing shorts and the dining room looked to formal for our attire.
We refreshed ourselves in the outside seating area which has no smoking signs. A real bonus.
Parking, however, seemed to be an issue but staff were helpful and one can have bar meals away from the linen-decked tables of the main restaurant. The menu did not appeal.
The George in Rye
This is billed as one of the South Coast's most luxurious hotels and the only four-star in 1066 Country.
The advertising blurb places an emphasis "not on glitz but on being a home-away-from-home."
We didn't stay but had been recommended to try the food. This place is busy and it is easy to see why.
We entered via the inviting George Tap pub with a selection of local real ales as well as chemical beer.
The adjoining restaurant serves "modern, Mediterranean food" using local produce.
Crustacea (oysters, giant gambas, wood roast lobster and warm lobster salad) features prominently and it popular judging by the clients during out visit.
My 10oz British beef bacon blue burger was one of the best I've ever experienced.
It arrived with bacon, caramelised onions, balsamic mayonnaise and salad and the brioche bun was topped by a thin slice of gherkin. The added extra was a Roquefort sheep milk cheese which worked perfectly and the hand-cut chips were spot on.
Pam's poussin was intriguingly marinaded in pomegranate and was a delight but out big grips was with the bill.
We were charged £11 for wine we did not have and the apology was disingenuous. A really sour note which spoiled a pleasant evening.
The Ship Inn, Strand Quay, Rye
The Ship Inn is described as a family and dog-friendly pub and dining room with individually designed hotel rooms.
It is in the heart of the historic East Sussex town of Rye and is apparently "a hub for locals, visitors and friends alike".
We checked out the website and it claims under the heading: Dine with
US: "We simply adore our food and have a real passion for our wines at The Ship. We like to think of ourselves as a far from usual pub.
"A pub with a real love for English wine. You can dine all day at The Ship, breakfast, lunch or dinner. If you consider yourself a foodie, a trip to The Ship is most definitely in order."
Sadly, we did not find any of the above. It has atmosphere but the staff showed naivity with simple questions about the food.
And what was served was disappointing, particularly as I plumped for one of the catches of the day, trout. I possibly expected too much as I am a fly fisherman and catch trout regularly.
My hope was that I would find another way to serve trout but it was below average in both presentation and taste.
Pam's bavette (strips of beef) was acutely disappointing. So, we emerged deflated.
Walkers Cocktails, Hastings
Walkers wine bar and bistro is in the heart of the pedestrianised centre of Hastings.
Bosses claim it is "renowned for having something for everyone".
We popped in after walking along the nearby prom and round the harbour and found fellow-diners having a light lunch and chatting to friends.
The outdoor seating was great for watching the world go by.
The food was tasty. My Hastings crab melt using Sussex charmer cheese was interesting but the sliced bread – it advertised wholemeal but none was available – would have assisted.
And Pam's chargrilled chicken and bacon was packed with flavour.
One disappointment was the men's toilet which is in desperate need of a facelift but overall we enjoyed the experience.
Attractions
Rye Heritage Centre: housed in a converted sail loft it is the home of the story of Rye.
Rye Castle Museum and Ypres Tower: new displays, including smuggling and medieval warfare.
Rye Harbour Nature Reserve: discover coastal wildlife along miles of footpaths.
www.Sussexwildlifetrust.org.uk
Drusillas Park, Polegate: claimed to be the best small zoo in Europe.
Carr Taylor Vineyards, Westfield : multi-award winning vineyard open daily offering free entry and wine tasting.
Kent and East Sussex Railway, Northiam : steam travel from Tenterden for 10.5 miles to Bodiam.
Battle : the town gets it name from the Battle of Hastings in 1066 when William the Conqueror defeated Harold the Saxon king. You can visit the spot where Harold fell.
www.Visit1066country.com/battle
Hastings Museum and Art Gallery : it features displays which either tell the history of Hastings or were collected by people who have lived in the town.
1066 Target Sports, Hastings : this claims to be the only place in the UK where you can walk off the street and fire and AK47.
Blue Reef Aquarium, Hastings : giant octopus, sharks, native and tropical species, rays all in an underwater tunnel plus a reptile room.
Fishermen's Museum, Hastings : imagine how fishing must have been over 100 years ago. Open daily.
Hastings Pier : the prize-winning pier hosts live concerts, markets, open air cinemas and other events. It has a restaurant, bar and an interactive exhibition.
East and West Hill lifts, Hastings: providing panoramic views over the Old Town.
White Rock Theatre: a 1,066-seat venue which is home to some of the best live entertainment in East Sussex.
Egerton Park : children's play zone, fitness area and tennis courts.
Bexhill Museum TN39 3HL: local history, archaeology and fashion plus Bexhill's motor heritage.
De La Warr Pavilion, Bexhill: pioneering centre for the arts hosing contemporary exhibitions, events and entertainment in a modernist building with shop and café. Open daily.
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