​Havasupai (The land of blue green waters) is a land of red rock canyons, tall waterfalls and blue green pools. It surrounds one of the remotest villages in the continental United States on the eastern end of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. You can only get to it three ways.You can hike the 8 miles from the Rim, ride a horse, or fly in a helicopter. No cars allowed on the Havasupai Reservation.

A family of Javelinas and a small herd of Pronghorn Antelopes that we saw kept my attention on the 5 hour drive from Phoenix to the canyon rim.My dozen companions and I waited patiently for our turn on the helicopter making its daily trips down below the rim to the village with passengers and supplies.

We arrived intact at the small village and began our two mile hike to our campsite along Havasu creek. The trail was dusty but easy as we passed the flowing river spilling over Navajo Falls. We would be back to visit it and capture its beauty. I was in nervous anticipation as we approached the jewel of the canyon:Havasu Falls.It spills 100 ft over a travertine shelf to spill into a blue green pool. The harsh mid afternoon sun did not do it justice but it was still inspiring to see as we walked the steep downhill path while avoiding the pack horses heading to our camp.

Evening brought our first excursion to the falls. We were on a photography tour so beautiful images were our goal. We set up along the shore at the bottom of Havasu falls and waited for nautical twilight. As darkness descended we began lighting the falls with flashlights and triggering our shutters to capture the surreal image of a waterfall at night.

Before the sun rose the next morning we were up and strapping on our backpacks for our hike and descent to Mooney Falls. Mooney is the highest waterfall of Havasupai with a 200 ft drop from rim to pool. It is about a mile downstream from Havasu Falls as the river flows steadily downhill as its proceeds west to join the mighty Colorado several miles away. The hike was easy but the climb down the steep cliff side thru caves, steps carved out of rock, and clinging on to chains as your body hangs over sheer drops was stimulating to say the least. While a little scary no one has fallen off. Our oldest member was 80 years old and makes the descent and the ascent without incident. The fall roared at us as we reached the bottom.The power of water made the ground shake as we set up our tripods to capture its portrait.

We explored down stream stopping at the many travertine pools that act like small steps as the river descends on its path west. Travertine is the result of mineral deposits slowing forming into rock. The blue green color of the waters comes from the high concentration of Calcium Carbonate and other minerals that are leached out of the canyon walls by the summer storms.

We returned to the base of Mooney Falls and began the vertical climb back up the canyon wall. It was steep and strenuous but the fear of falling kept your eyes on the step in front on you and not on the ground below. Tired and sweaty from my climb I slowly walked back to camp. I would have done anything for a cold beer but Havasupai is a reservation and no alcohol is allowed. I settled for a long drink of filtered river water from my water bottle.

The third day began with another hike back up the trail toward the village. My sore thigh muscles reminded me about my climb out of Mooney the day before with each step. We cut off the main trail and covered the last quarter mile to visit two more waterfalls: Navajo and Rock Falls. Both are smaller drops but are very picturesque in their beauty. Both of these falls have had their paths and appearance changed by the flash flooding that occurred here in 2008.

The view of Navajo Falls spilling over the travertine shelf with the red canyon mesas being lit up by the morning sun caught my attention. The light of the rising sun made the canyon walls stand out as the sky turned blue and the water sparkled. I spent several hours wandering the river looking for that perfect spot.

Rock Falls almost appeared to be from some lost world of the past. The formations of travertine covered in green moss and misty flows of water guided your eyes to the rushing waters of the main falls. This area made a great panorama of red rocks, white waters, and blue and green pools.

The rest of the day was spent relaxing in camp or watching our guides dive off the cliff face into the pool of Havasu Falls. I guess this is Arizona's version of cliff diving. One guide even climbed behind the falls on the slick moss covered rocks.

I captured my best image of Havasu falls the next morning as the sun was rising but still below the rim of the canyon. The soft reflected light made the canyon shine and the blue green pool glowed. No one was near the falls so I got to capture the beauty of this natural wonder of the Southwest.

As I lay down to sleep on my last night in the canyon, I could not know that the adventure was not yet over. The trip out of the canyon was to be as memorable as the last three days had been.

We hiked back the village the next morning stopping for a few last photographs along the way. We waited for our helicopter to arrive about mid morning. The weather had turned colder and wind began to pick up as we waited. One hour then two and finally three hours passed.No chopper.Our guides looked concerned and finally told us that a cold front had moved in at the canyon rim and the winds were preventing the helicopters from flying that day. We had two choices hike out or ride a horse the 8 miles and 3000 vertical feet to reach our vehicles parked on the rim top. I chose a horse. The guides took great care of all of us as the group worked its way out of the canyon.They packed extra water, carried gear, and probably covered twice the distance the rest of us did to ensure our safe arrival.

I had not been on a horse in forty years.I spent three long hours trying to keep my feet in the stirrups, the horse on the trail and me in the saddle.A light cold rain was blown into our faces by the wind as we made our way thru the barren trail along the canyon floor.The canyon rim came into view and the last mile of switch backs up the canyon wall to the rim made me glad I was riding and not hiking.The horse knew his business and made the ascent easier than I did

I arrived at the top and tried to dismount only to find my right leg was numb and our guide smiled as she pulled my numb foot from the stirrup and helped me dismount. I have not imagined this photography excursion would turn into such an adventure .I will always remember this land of Native Americans with its beautiful waterfalls, blue green waters, and red canyon walls called Havasupai.

If you go:

You must plan your trip well in advance. Havasu Falls is not in Grand Canyon National Park, it is on the Havasupai reservation near the National Park. This means you cannot expect to add a visit to the waterfalls onto your trip at the last minute. You must plan in advance.

There are no roads to the waterfalls only a difficult 10 mile hike in each direction. The hike begins on the Havasupai Indian Reservation, a 4-5 hour drive from either Phoenix or Las Vegas.

You must have a permit to hike to Havasu Falls. Havasu Falls is on tribal land that belongs to the Havasupai Indian Tribe. The Havasupai Indians require that all visitors reserve a permit in advance. Permits are in high demand because the waterfalls are so popular. You must reserve your permits by February or March or they will all be sold out for the entire year. You must stay overnight at Havasu Falls. The Havasupai Tribe require that all visitors stay overnight in the canyon. This is for your own safety due to the nature of the challenging 10 mile hike each direction. There is a campground for backpackers.No day hiking is allowed.

There is a Lodge/hotel that some people stay at in the canyon. It is in the village of Supai, Arizona which is about 2 miles away from Havasu Falls. You will pass through Supai on your hike to the waterfalls. The lodge is very basic, does not have many rooms, and offers no food. There is a cafe in the village and a flatbread stand by the falls.

Consider a Guided Trip: This is the best option if you can afford it.  I highly recommend the Arizona Highways PhotoScape's.This organization is very experienced and can provide the expertise for you to take great photographs along with the logistics to make your visit as memorable as mine. Guided trips provide the permits as part of the trip package. Outfitters are not allowed to sell permits to the public. Outfitted trips ensure that participants are prepared, safe, well-fed, and well-equipped to enjoy the trip.

Useful links

​https://www.ahpw.org/